locogato11283

i run the sand stars in my yfz450 front and rear. i like them a lot and theyll turn on a dime..

douglas fo sho

id go with a douglas 160 or 190 aluminum rim..

ive never used one. put together quite a few motors and never really had a problem with keeping the motor still.. you can always prop it up on something.

check out laker customs.. they make some pretty nice plastic..

haha, i highly doubt you guys joined on the same day.. the last time HQ crashed, that date is the one Lee picked for everyones sign on date..

clean bike man.. good deal on this bike..

thats what i was thinking.. the tops are def right.

ohh ok.. sounds like you need a brake caliper rebuild kit.. shit, you can prolly buy a new caliper for next to nothing..

i wouldnt fuck with it.. not worth the hassle if some shit goes down.

hahaha score for 2strokespirit..

yo, check that your billet blockoff plate isnt pushing the rod in for the e-brake.. i had this problem once. i think the billet blockup didnt get machined down enough and it was pushing on that rod when tightened down causing the rear brakes to stay locked up.. try loosening the blockoff a little to see what happens. as for those engine bolts, they should be m10 bolts 1.25 pitch i think.. they usually have 2 washers and 1 lockwasher on them..

i dont think the uppers are the problem. if you swap them so that the angle is in the back, its gonna angle directly into the shock.. are you sure the bottoms are on right? i dont know, to me it looks right.. have you called alba?

weak dogg!! get out on that ice! shits fun!

there seems to be a pretty fine line between small bore and big bore on the 421 cub motors.. i would say if youre gonna run out of frames to run small bore.. who is your builder?

id say t5, but i dont think you can go wrong with either..

if youre only dragging there is more power to be made with shearer oof pipes..

blah blah blah.. quit fuckin faking.. you cant come on here claiming to get cranks for 180 bucks then say, "if it gets out ill be done."

i think youll be good with 4". that weight will be spread out over a bigger area. i think the last time i went the ice was 4 to 6".

i dont know.. its one of the best threads ever.

no way some retard at the dealership will be able to tell how hard you ran it on break in.

i believe there is a c-ring and a spot for it on the axle. the brake hub slides on from the sprocket side and sits against that c-ring.

so who is making the actual parts and who is actually putting them together? when i bought my original 10mm forged crank from redline, cameron told me it would actually be a crankworks crank.. when i had it rebuilt due to a weld comin apart, i took it to GT performance, who said he would be sending it to crankworks.. so is crankworks responsible for putting all these cranks together and then sending them out all over the place or what?

sick dude, wtf..

hahahahahahahahahahahahaahahahahahahaha