Nightrider

I think what people fail to realize is that this 2 stroke crap only applies to the USA. I guarrantee that the banshee will still be produced and available to countries that do not have strict emission laws. What I don't understand is why people think that the Banshee will stop being produced all together.We as American are not the only ones who ride these atvs.Countries like AUS still allow 2stroke cycles produced after 1975 on the streets. This will still benefit us as parts will be readily available for many years to come. I think they will try selling the Banshee as a closed course model for the first year and if it continues to show good sale numbers,they will continue selling them here.

Carbuerator velocity stacks,usually see them on drag bikes.These don't have any screens inside them.I guess there supposed to help increase air velocity.

I found these in a box full of cycle parts I got with the last bike I bought.They were tarnished,but a little Simichrome,brought out the beautiful finish These chrome is absolutely flawless.There 50mm I don't know the make or what there for,but I'm sure some asphalt dragger may benefit from them. 30 bucks plus shipping.I'm 44035.I have no use for them.PM me if interested

I agree with azsandrat.I run a little extra also.I make sure the dipstick reads about 1/4 inch above the full line.The only downfall is it might rob a little h.p from the extra oil in the trans case.

The best advice I can give you is stick with it,look forward to your workouts and eat well balanced meals 5-7 times a day.(Smaller portions more often)Eat alot of wheat based breads,rices,pastas. This is yor best years to make a foundation for the rest of your life.Your muscles will regenerate faster in your younger years.Always allow enough rest for your muscles,they let you know when its time. Scheduels are no good,because if you over exert yourself you may need an extra day to rest it.Make your own scheduel as your body will tell you whats rested. DON'T EXPECT large gains in muscle size,this is where alot of people get dissapointed.It takes years of muscle training to get the most desired results.So stick with it,in time you will get good results. If your serious about musclegain then get into your workouts.The more focused you are the more beneficial it will be to your muscles.

I've seen the 500cc Cr cylinder mated to the 250r bottom.Somebody does the conversion,but this is the first time I've seen one with a powervalve.Dam!

Milled head Bored carbs +4 timing drag porting ported reed cages rusty ass FMF golds got beat by one of these at the local riding hole.Looked like a real piece of shit.Guy said he had 1,000 into it.from the way it looked,I believed him.

I don't know how accurate the trx500r calculator is.I'm not sure but I believe its for a CR500 in a 4trax chassis. I can give you the one for the CR500,It tells you the top gear ratio members.tripod.com/sidecase/calc1.htm

You F-ed up so live and learn.Never send any parts out before the check clears.Make sure you make it clear to the buyer that checks will need time to clear.I no longer accept personal checks period.cash or Cashiers check or forget it.

MEAN PEOPLE KICK ASS!

Personally I think it sucks,but then again,I used to have cable modem.I got satelite now and it was cheaper to go DSL route.90 kb is the most I've heard of as far as download,but I've never seen that. I pulled over 400kb with my cable modem a couple times through Limewire(gnutella shareware)I wish I had cable again.

the keys are only as reliable as the installation.I made a flywheel holder out of some 1/8"x1"x24"flatstock and some longer 3/8 bolts..I used the exsisting holes in the flywheel and spaced 2 of them out on the flatstock.Drilled and tapped 2 holes and voila.I ground the threads off of the bolts and made them smooth,so they wouldn't marr the holes. Took me 1/2 hour and I was able to torque the flywheel properly.Betteer than paying 30 some bucks.I 've used it probably 3 times,so it was worth the time spent. Just make the flatsock long enough so the it will touch the ground and secure itself.That way you don't have to hold it while your torqing the nut.

I'm sure with enough abuse,a stock crank will seperate even on a stock shee.If your getting good traction and dumping the clutch quite a bit,it would be only a matter of time. Especially during those 2nd gear dumps when it boggs due to too much traction.Think about where all of that negative force is sent,if your clutch is beefy,then the crank wil take the brunt. A friend of mine still has a ported shee with 21cc domes,he is still running a stock crank. Not a big dragger because its really geared for the trail,but he does power through the trails.With the way he rides it may never split.

Meat,I have been there too and suffered for a few years before I learned how to cope. I was in a car wreck when I was about 18.My friend T-boned a lady(not our fault)at about 50 mph.I had no seatbelt and even with time to react I still was not able to brace myself.So I ran my head into the winshield.My hand,thank god was able to get in between my head and the window and softened the blow. My neck felt a little tweeked but EMS said I looked o.k and I said F*ck the doctor.Turns out I had a pinched nerve and didn't know it for 4 years.If I would try to carry something like a hand held tool box,that was very heavy,I would get a sharp pain in my neck along my spine.Like someone drove an icepick in there.95% of the time it wouldn't bother me,but that 5% was unbearable I went to a back specialist and the treatments made me feel good"when I was getting them".Unfortunately I still had occasional pains. I finally ditched the doctor and started to excercise and began working on heavier weights,not too heavy,but enogh to build and strengthen lean muscle.That is when the pain stopped and it hasn't bothered me for 8 years.I think the exercise helped to strength my back and neck,now carrying a heavy box no longer bothers me. I don't think the excercise permanently fixed my neck,I think it just took the stress off of that muscle so it isn't putting pressure on the nerve.Excercise and muscle building is not everyones answer,but you have to face the facts like I did,the pain isn't going to go away forever,you F*cked up your body.Now you must learn what it takes to make it through life comfortably.I found a way,maybe you wil someday.

What are the trails like at Marienville?I'm a little over 2hrs from there.Planning on getting there next season.Are there any open areas?Or is it just a trail systen?

That all depends on the type of rider he is. My friend has a built Raptor and still runs an 01 tranny.It shows no sign of gear failure or starter problems.Believe it or not,he rides pretty hard. All depends on what your doing with it.

All oils will naturally mix,but some may try to seperate a bit. As long as the premix ratio is the same,it shouldn't hurt the machine. My dirtbikes run on Goldenspec,but if all I got is yamalube,then I'm topping the tank off with that.I just mix the yamalube at 42:1. Just remember oil mixes,grease doesn't.

Holeshots by far.The XCT is my favorite in 22's,Holeshot makes an extremely light tire, ply for ply.There decent in mud,but suffer on loose pack or loamy surfaces.There hardpack rating is #1 in a 6 ply tire. I put 23/22 XCT on the first week I bought my shee.My stockers never saw action,their still stacked in a corner from 01'

I ran 110 in my Shee for a while,It never ran really good at lower speeds.I was running 21cc and +4 timing.Thought I needed the octane. The gas was getting expensive,so I decided to try premium pump (Sunoco 94) and an octane booster.I figured the it to be about 95 with the booster. The engine was noticeably more responsive on the low-end and there was a definite crispness in the throttle.That extra octane in the 110 seemed to hurt the engines responsiveness.

A hundred yards really ain't no test,especially if you wanna demonstrate how bad you can embarras a machine.I've seen some 440 ex that look dam good on 100yds. My shee remains in striking distance with the 5 hundy in 100yds..But run it out another 50 yds and the CR just flatout leaves it. Deuce,have you ever ran him out on the top-end?

original posted by ninjamaster Maybe you should trade your banshee for a dumptruck,so you can haul your FAT ASS around and you can fill the bed up with your bullshit. How old are you,like 14 or something.But in all honesty I don't need another trailer,but I'll give you 500 for the banshee.The shocks are probably junk from all that weight it had to bear and the handlebars are probably bent from your massive upper body strength.

I hear that klotz and 927 leave alot of deposits on pistons/powervalves etc.Is this true? I've never used anything but yamalube 2R in my shee.Is it really worth changing over to full synthetic?

The 450 is fast,but there is limited potential for improvement.The size of the engine is its biggest downfall. A Banshee or even Raptor will easily pass it once modified.Yamaha built a good engine with the 450,but they didn't leave much room for improvement.Its close to being maxxed out on H.P already. You might see a 500cc kit for it in the future,but thats about it.There just isn't enough room inside that engine to really add cc's.

Nyuk!! Mudvayne's DIG for lovemaking?Maybe for ass-kicking,but definitely not lovemaking,unless your a wife beater. Mudvayne F-ing rules,best concert I've seen in a long time.

I get good readings off of brand spanking new plugs.If you do a WOT in sixth,It will burn a nice thin brown ring around the base of the porcelin.I'm running a 32:1 mix and in one run,I can get a good burn on the porcelin.It will take more riding to be able to read the tip and flat area above the threads. Then I will periodically check the plug after a couple rides to see how the other circuits are jetted.(pilot/needle.) Your gonna have to chop the plug to accurately read it and if your porcelin is still white around the base after a run,I'd bump up the mains. If you put a used,fairly blackend plug back in and the jetting was wayy to lean,it would take sometime before that plug will show signs of being lean.I've seen plugs come out white from runing too lean to long(burning deposits off of porcelin)and excessive richness(fuel wash)fuel washing the porcelin clean.But this takes time I have 2 chopped plugs from when I put pipes on.they are perfectly white with the exception of a very thin dark brown ring around the base of the porcelin and a spot thats black(probably from pilot).If I can get my scandisk working,I'll post em.