Nightrider

IMO there a waste of money,I don't know about the Noss head but the stock head flowed better than the Prodesign.If your looking for better cooling,get a high flow impellar,it costs a 1/3 less than a coolhed set-up and cools 10x better. Like others have said,the only advantage is being able to change domes,which unless your dragging,your not going to be changing them all the time.The o-ring design has to be the crappiest set-up I've ever seen.Head gaskets have steel fire rings,Cool heads have rubber o-rings.Which would you rather have? If any of the 20 some orings are not seated properly,your going to have leaks.Especially if your constantly swapping domes.Only one guy I know that runs a cool head hasn't had any problems,but he's never taken it apart to change domes either.The other 2 guys are always bitching about leaks and none of the 3 can vouch for an increase in cooling efficiency. I bought 2 stock heads and had them machined for 21cc and 19,total investment with machining 100 bucks.Better than shelling out 200 and another 60 bucks for extra domes.

Pimp,why would you want your quad to look like every other Yamaha out there.The Raptor YFZ and now the Raptor 350 all share the same styling.Not to mention how closely the Z400,KFX and DVX resemble The Raptors styling. What exactly is so original about making your quad look like every other quad in Yamahas lineup.I'm sorry but the originality thing isn't going to work here. I just don't see the justification you tried to make.All you managed to do is show us just how dumb you really are. Again,why would anyone want to make a Banshee look like every other yamaha quad if they were concerned originality? Sounds like you really want a Raptor,maybe you should buy one and take your half a brain to Bluetraxx. I hear Cali is full of queers,your probably one of them,so you moved out there to feel at home(isn't that special)

Its been 3 years and I have no problem to report with my TORS system.Its just like anything else,if you don't maintain it,sooner or later its not going to work. I take the covers off once a year to clean out the housings.Periodically cleaning and regreasing the electrical connections will also prevent electrical problems. Mine will stay on as long as they keep working properly or I upgrade to better carbs.

I'm running a similar temperature gauge block like Deuce,but I opted for an automotive style gauge.Its going on two years and it still works good despite the vibration. The only time the needle vibs a bit is just off idle.The plastic does a good job of quelling the vibration.

Heres how it looks with the radiator cover on.It really helps to channel the incoming air through the radiator instead of around it.I guarratee anyone with cooling issues will notice a difference,especially at lower speeds where you need all of the incoming air to pass through the radiator.

Sorry I've been away,for any of you interested in the foam block I was talking about,heres some pics.The radiator shroud will pinch it and keep it in place.After a few months,the foam will take shape of the radiator.

If your running the stock airbox lid,then 280 is probably o.k,but you need to bump up the pilots to atleast 27.5 If its boggy on the very bottom,it will probably like the bigger pilots. My PC banshee loves a rich pilot and I can tell when its getting colder out because it gets a little bog on the bottom.I run 1/2 turn out in the winter and 3/4-1 out during the summer months.I'm borderline for 30's now.Some pipes like a richer pilot.Try stepping it up and see how it does.

How about "stewed" or my favorite...BLATO!

Originally posted by sweetshee4312 I don't know...Booste bottle?I think he might be speaking some broken French

A 250r would probably stomp you for the simple fact that you are a skirt wearer.

Tithead,your still crying over this shit.WTF,dude grow up already. And I'm sure Ducman would be happy to race your Fireblade and mv august A4 when you actually get them. Your the only one that can't seem to get over it Turniphead.

And your always telling us to sell our stuff on Ebay to avoid the hassles of price hagglers and people that want something for nothing.

Does that quad have its papers?Sure your not interested in any dirtbikes.

You should have said an example could be seen on your website.Hell I don't go to those weblinks on anyones,you never know where there gonna send you(theres some sick people out there)Now I see what your doin.I've never heard of pressurising the bowls.HMM All of this could have been avoided,I think Raxen and bigboybanshee were ready to go "all backyard wrestling" on ya.No worries its under control now.

Shorty,my main question is...what pressurizes the fuel.You keep talking about increasing fuel pressure,now you say you can richen it up externally.Are you just richening up the mixture?This sounds like your using a type of Dial-A-jet system. Is that what it is?If not what pressurizes the fuel. Try to be a bit more specific next time,it takes a bit more typing,but it helps people understand what your trying to explain,Most people that have no clue about nitrous and would never know the difference,but i'm very familiar with it.

How exactly do you increase fuel pressure on a carbuerated application????You stated your systems were DRY systems.This is where your making no sense. When I mentioned fuel pump,you said I was talking about wet systems,but now your telling me fuel pressure will make up for the extra needed fuel in a dry system. Shorty,am I missing something here,is there some info that your not telling us about.Are these banshees fuel injected?There has to be fuel injected from some point if fuel pressure is playing a role.Are these some kind of special carbs? This is why your not making any sense,We are not here to ridicule your Dry set-up,but your telling us one thing that conflicts with other points your trying to make.And when we question you,you seem to get all defensive.At first your post interested me and I figured that some of the added cost was from the manifold blocks.I agree they can be expensive.But the logic behind your system didn't make sense. The more you try to explain it,the harder it is for us to understand you. Like I said if your dry system works for you,then use it,but to come here and preach about the advantages of a dry system over a wet is useless.There is no advantage.

No,and you can't READ either can you,Nightrider vs Knightrider.Goddam your stupid boy and you want us to give you 1000 bucks to install a NOS kit.Go play with some Gobots or something. David Hasselhoff would probably kick your ass anyway.

I thought this was about twisting one up...my bad.

Its not our fault you made yourself look like an ASSHOLE.Now go put some of those plugs in your mouth.

Shorty I think you need to read up on Nitrous oxide and its operating systems.I don't know where you got your information,but it sounds like more of an opinion to me. The new thing to do is Direct inject down the runners or throat of the carb.This style of injection is no way considered "forced"induction.It does not duplicate a boosted engine in any way.I've seen numbers and improvements of maybe 1-2 % over standard injection. I'm not here because I want to talk smack,I'm teling you what I have experienced with Nitrous in the last 10 years. Dry systems are not "new".They actually were the original nitrous systems,but as people learned about it,they came to the conclusion that extra fuel needed to be added to compensate for an over rich "air" mixture when the nitrous was used,So they started adding fuel to mix with the nitrous.The result was more power with less of a chance of running too lean and greater relibility.If you like your Dry kits then by all means use it,but don't come on here telling us that its the best thing since sliced bread. Dry kit are old news and the engines run like crap "off" the bottle.

I don't see how a dry system has advantages over a wet system.You can jet a wet system right at the fogger,when a dry system needs to have the carbs removed to rejet.And your rejetting the whole system.A wet system is wayy more reliable than a dry and neither will be reliable if there jetted incorrectly.So your point about jetting and how its easier and more reliable is moot It doesn't matter if its WET or DRY,a nitrous engine is still naturally aspirated,Meaning it "BREATHS"on its own.As opposed to FORCED induction which pressurizes or feeds the engine air.The ricers run dry system because extra fuel can be made up with higher fuel pressure,bigger injectors and different fuel mapping.Computer controlled vehicles can compensate for lean conditions,A carbuerator cannot. I'm having a hard time following you Shorty.Especially the one about a dry system being naturally aspirated and a wet system not.I've been fooling with nitrous for 10 years and thats the first time I've heard that.

I wouldn't switch if you already have the rad valve..I've noticed the V-force have better low-speed throttle response than the rad valve.They work good on non-powervalved engines like the YFZ 350

I'm willing to bet the blocks are machined from aluminum,that the only way to justify the cost,or some of it.Especially if there is a plenum divider of some sort in the intakes. Post some pic,I'm interested to see it.My only concern would be reliability,I like the wet systems for the simple fact fuel is added.In a dry sys.If its jetted too high,it may run poorly off the bottle

Amen to that RAXEN,1000 bucks is ridiculous.Even if you pieced it together,it wouldn't come close to that.Sorry to knock you Shorty,but thats "high rent" if you ask me Solenoids are about 80-90 a piece Braided steel line 50 Bottle 180(thats high) fuel pump 70 misc microswitchs 75 80+80=160+50=210+70=280+180=460+75=535

There not going to stop producing them simply because we no longer can use them.People,you need to realize that we are not the only ATVers on the planet.Look over at the UAE,I watch alot of those videos at planet sand.Everybody and there mother are riding banshees.It looks to be the quad of choice over there. Canada,Mexico,South America,Austrailia,Europe,even Africa.The production numbers may decrease,but theres no reason to cease production if they still have buyers. Take the volkswagon beetle for instance,And I'm not talkin about the new FWD ones. They continued to produce and sell them all over the world except for the USA,Why because they offered no emission controls.They never stopped making the old beetles,they just stopped importing them to the US.