Nightrider

I agree Deuce,I guess it depends on your riding style. If your looking for a predictable powerband with tractable power,than you probably want a 4stroke. I never liked those bikes with powerbands that begin off idle,My 500 is like that and it doesn't even feel like a 2stroke(Dam BURLY Pipe).If you get a little outta shape,you best not even have your hand on the throttle.

I love the PC ,it does hit pretty hard and a little late,but thats why I love'em.If your runnin fairly open trails,the PC will work,but as soon as the trail gets technical,you'll understand why they call it a high rev.Low to mid pipes perform better in the tighter stuff,but I never cared for them.

Anything made of BILLET.Totally worthless on a machine that lives on dirt. I'll second the Boost bottle.Another worthless shiny thing.

Don't forget to factor in ignition advance.A 150-155 psi might be fine on pump gas,but after you add +4 or more timing advance,your over the limit.Timing advance will raise the minimum octane requirements also.

The PC is the best pipe for the money.Alot of people call the PC pipe a "cheap" high rev pipe.I think its one of the best and has so much more to offer in the mid and low compared to Toomeys.I ran toomeys and was not impressed. PC has been around for along time and is the most respected pipe in off-road racing.Yea,there not all shiny and chromed out,but is that chrome gonna help you win the race?For 389.00 you can't go wrong.

Raxen,I asked you if you ever raced on a 1/4 mile track because 1/8 is not always enough to top out. 90+ miles an hour can mean 91-92.I didn't say 95 and according to the gear calculator it is possible with 16/41 and 22's.I'm going off of the gear calculator you posted. I stated that it was possible to pull 90+ mph.I never stated that it definitely would.Ask your buddies over the atvdra about my time and if its realistic.I'm sure someone over there has run the a 1/4 opposed to the 1/8. Then ask them if removing the fenders,dropping full skid plates and bumping the gear from 15/41 to16/41 with 22's would yield 7-8 mph and if a piped banshee could do it in the 1/4. I don't need to bullshit about my times.If I was going to bullshit,I would have posted a faster time than 14.8 @82mph.Thats f*cking pathetic. No hard feelings bro.

dude what the f*ck,can you not READ?I posted my time with my shee like 20 posts back.I never said my shee does 90 mph in the 1/4 mile.Where the f*ck do you get that?I said with a little tweeking and ditching the fenders,I may be able to crack 90mph.I said it was not unrealistic. I said I ran 14.8 at 82mph 1/4 mile with 15/41 22ich tires and the bike was piped. YOU NEED TO LEARN HOW TO READ? I think your the one bullshitting,you have been dropping alot of bullshit all over these boards for weeks.About your Hayabusa blah blah blah.you throw up a good smoke screen but some of us can see right through it. I think an apology is in order.Where the f*ck do you come off attacking me.Did I insult you in some way? Please go back and show me where I stated "MY' banshee does 90mph. I'm sorry if I proved you wrong somewhere in this thread.I don't understand why your so angry?

Its located just south of route 301 on state route 42(which is pearl rd).Coming from Cleveland take 71 s to Route 301.Go right on 301,then take a left on route 42. (Theres a BP gas at the corner of 301 and 42)From cleveland your lookin at a 45+ min drive.

Listen Raxen,don't get all salty because I made a point and made you look bad.I said 90mph could be possible. Where do you get stock pipes,I thought he was running PC's. You learned few things from the atvdra website and your an expert.I never claimed to be,I just told you what I experienced and I said 90 mph could be possible with the mods he listed "MINUS" his front fenders and 22 inch tire. take some time to read the posts.I said I highly doubted Klotzs shee could do 93mph,but its not totally unrealistic. Have you ever raced your shee on a 1/4 mile track with a timing system?Or are you just going with what you've heard on the net? I don't doubt the accuracy of the gear calculator,its just not an accurate way of measuring the vehicles capabilities.too many variables.

Like I said tithead is a "Bufty". I think Nyuk has too much time on his hands,but those vids are hilarious.

Thats why I said it isn't accurate. Air drag is gonna be the main factor,Also how do you know what rpm he's turning,your assuming 9000,but it could be more or less. Thats why its not accurate.Too many factors come into play. I never said that I believed him,but he did say he was running different tires. I've ran my shee on the 1/4 mile and pulled over 80mph with full front fenders. I would imagine if I removed the front fenders and bumped up to a 16. 90mph could be possible.This is talking from real track experience,not from behind my computer using a gear speed calc. I think klotz speed is possible,but highly unlikely Klotz,those gps sppedos are not very accurate.I think its +/-3-4mph

Tithead,your story is about as believeable as the Loch Ness monster. So take "it" and your sorry "nyaff" ass back to that shithole you call a country. You all must understand,Tithead is a wee hard bufty man.Don't waste your time on him. Raxen 16/41 with a 22inch tire will give you 90+.I know your mechanical wizardry gives a good ball park,but theres too many variables involved,the calculator is not accurate.

Dragway 42 in West Salem allows quads to run the 1/4.they cater to the hillbilly crowd Norwalk Raceway Park allows quads to compete,but they have too many rules.No knobbies,full leathers etc. It was the first time I ever ran it.I probably could have brang it down to mid 14's with the front fenders removed and all of the skidplates(a-arm,swing-arm,belly)removed. I was just curious to how fast it was compared to my CR500.On a street tire I've mustered high 12's at 97mph. Those hillbillies love the 500.It must have turned every head in the staging lanes when I started it.

Loco,this guy does Alot of CR500 and I have yet to hear anyone on any of the dirtbikes forums complain.He's pretty well known for big bore singles. www.eric-gorr.com Dam lanky you beat me to it.

I think he needs a fu*king low maintenance brain.Or maybe a few more dents in his skull.

I got Almost 2 seasons on mine.Worth every Damm penny. When I took the one side out last month to look at them,they still looked new. I can tell a difference in the lower rpms now from when they were new.Not as torquey,but it stil idles good and runs great.

Are any of the pieces trapped in the cooling system? Is your radiator cap in good working condition,It should hold a certain Psi before it opens and allow coolant to escape to the overflow.

With 15/41 I managed 82mph in the 1/4 mile with PC pipes.I think it was around 14.7 or 14.8 et.

Where exactly did I say Boonman was an idiot?And apologies to him if I did. I stated I was "high" when I first looked at this thread,but I don't recall calling anyone an idiot. I found the irony funny I guess.Look at it from this perspective Fixitrod,I don't know you from a hole in the ground. You give me advice on how a clutch operates and why.Then you proceed to tell me that your rippen your clutch apart on a weekly basis to repair it.(exaggerate) I don't know you or your story,All I can see from this perspective is someone who knows exactly whats wrong,but the answers get scrambled before they get to the hands. This was not a personal attack on you by any means.Just a smart ass comment.

First off Fixit,you need to go back and reread the posts and see where I corrected myself after Mcaf's explanation.I was a liitle confused untill I drew it out on paper and looked at it,then it made sense.Somebody corrected me an I appreciate it. I never doubted your theory,but after you told me about your clutch problems and having to tear it apart 5-6 times in 2 months before you got it right,makes me believe that your a shady mechanic or someone who half asses shit. I never had any clutch issues with my shee yet,but when I do I'll make sure its done right the first time.Even if I had to buy everything new and split the cases to get the broken bits out.I know it probably sucks,but it if it has to be done then oh well. So thats how you got the name FIXIT huh?When I said to visulize the parts and how they work,I was speaking in general,not at you.This goes for anything,not just the clutch system.It was hard for me to visualize it with "smoke"on the brain."

Think about how hot the pipes are getting after a run like that,like Fixit said,its probably residual oil getting burned off.

You are both correct "if" the clutch systems are in top condition.In this case,you'll probably do more damage to the linings.Like I was saying the disegagement isn't 100%.Clutches will always drag a bit.The more worn out the basket is the harder it becomes to fully disengage the clutch.I had it right too,just backwards.Maybe I'll go hit another PIPE! Ever been on one of those bikes that starts to die when the bike is kicked in to gear even when the clutch is pulled in.The fingers on the basket probably look like sharks teeth.I would say that one of these machines will be more than likely to develop welded ball syndrome. I think Mcaf summed it up. Let me ask you guys this,where does your clutch disengage at,What part of the lever pull? Two years on a stock clutch,with some dragging.The release and engagement point are at the very beginnig of the pull,maybe less than 1/4 from the maximum release point.It just seems weird.My dirtbikes always started to grab around the middle of the release.This one grabs at the very end? It idles great and seems like it has excellent engagement,but it sucks for racing.I hate clutches that grab at the top.

You got it Jethro!Thats why they get welded together.its better to fully engage the clutch a couple of times down those hills or kick it into neutral.Even if you just pop it out for a second,it will give it some time to lubricate the tip of the rod. Holding the clutch lever all the way in will produce the most force on that rod,ball and cup. Which naturally forces the oil out from in between and leaves a thin film to lubricate. At an idle,it would probably take a very long time to weld the ball(or a very big downhill),but revving it up with the clutch pulled in will rapidly breakdown that oil film between the two metal surfaces. Fixitrod,your pressure plate is spinning even at idle.Ever have your quad on a lift and started it.Even when its in neutral.The tires tend to spin a little when you blip the throttle. There is no 100% disengagement,its part of the reason they use wet clutches.It shears the oil rather than the lining.

Actually Banchetta,revving the clutch when its fully disengaged is better than partial engagement.(corrected) When you disengage the clutch(pulling the lever back)Your forcing the shift rod to push against the ball to push against the cup that forces the springs and releases the presure. Inside that cup is the special shaped screw that we use to adjust our clutches. When you squeeze the lever and disengage the clutch,all of the springs pressure is forced upon the ball,rod and cup.At this time there is no clearnce betwwen these parts,yet there trying to work as a bearing and allow the engine to freewheel from the tranny.So what will happen if you partially engage your clutch in for extemely long periods of time and or revv it,well its not hard to figure out is it. The only time the oil has a chance to get inbetwwen these surfaces is when you release the lever and engage the clutch.That is also why clutch freeplay is important.It doesn't need a ton of oil,but think about what kind,what weight you run,how often you change etc.How long would anything last METAL to METAL? Riding or riding out a clutch will mainly damage the ball and plates(corrected) Thanks to Mcaf,causing them to swell from heat..Believe it or not,there is more pressure&heat on the ball&rod when the clutch is partially engaged.banchetta,I too have erratic clutch behavior after quite a few hard runs,but I think the stock clutch just can't hang. I know it may be hard to understand,but look at a breakdown of a clutch,look at the parts,visualize what they do,how they move and see how they are effected.Its the only true way you'll ever understand why it does what it does.

So far this is what we've figured out... Obviously if its only from one side,then you can eliminate the carburators. You can also rule out ignition timing and octanne issues.If only one cylinder is being affected. Plug heat range shouldn't be a factor if the other plug is totally normal. If it was a seal leaking,it would be sucking tranny oil. Which leaves two possible things...Air leaks? And possibly a bad port job.What exactly did he do to the cylinders?I'm not 100% sure,but port timing might have some effect.Unless somebody can rule it out. With 18c domes,I would be running the b9's instead of b8's.I always run the colder plugs anytime I add timing or compression.Better safe than sorry.A colder plug will transfer that heat away from the electrode faster.