Nightrider

Ride a dirtbike,preferably a CR or KX500,after a couple of rides,you won't even notice arm pump anymore.When you do start to notice it again,jump back on the dirtbike. You'll be so tired of riding the bike that you'll be begging to get back on your quad

I've got the whole bike for sale now and may consider a swap if you richen the pot. Its a 93' 500r overbored .20 with about 20 hrs on top-end .Compression is 140-145.FMF Burly pipe,FMF ram valve,virgin ports,newer clutch.Its currently up for sale,2,000 takes it. Its been meticulously maintained and needs nothing

A question about your rockets.I know its been asked numerous times, can you reccomend jetting for the 26mm carbs with no lid?

I recommend anything by George Hayduke.His books are published by Paladin Press and trust me,there is some twisted ideas in those books.I recommend "Get even".

Amen to that Ken,I am a resident of Ohio and it just pisses me off to see stupidity like that. It just makes every atver look like irresponsible reckless idiots. All this does is set ATV riders back further and further.We hardly have anyplace left to legally ride in Ohio and actions like this only encourage Anti-atv advocates to completely do away wih what we have left. I love this sport,but stupidity will be the death of it.I experienced the death of trikes firsthand,I don't want to see this happen to quads too.BE RESPONSIBLE PEOPLE.IF YOU LOVE THIS SPORT THEN DO YOUR PART TO KEEP IT ALIVE...and if your gonna act like an idiot,go do it in another state.

It all comes down to color and graffix kits.Even if your quad isn't fast,a neon plastics and a graffix kit will give the illusion that your quad is faster.Just like those ricers with the gook racing decals and 747 style wings.(no offense to the chinos of HQ). Go buy some fullbores and slap a set of tribal Alba graffix on and you'll flat out stomp anything

Have you checked your reeds lately?I beat my brains out with the same problem last year until a friend talked me into pulling the reed cages out.I kept thinking they couldn't possibly be the problem considering they were V-force with less than a year ride time on them.The petals had considerable gaps in them and it ran just like yours does. A new set of reeds and it had a crisp popping out of each pipe and idled great.It was night and day difference and my friend said"I told you so",I would check the obvious first,but don't rule out your reed petals.

I have to agree with CRbanshee,I think the shee is a very capable jumper and is very stable in the air.Obviously some people here don't know the proper way to negotiate a landing.Its not just about holding on and preparing for impact. I agree every banshee could use an aftermarket set of boingers.But don't try to tell us that a stock 400ex will clear 50' tabletops all day long.Stock shocks on the honda are not much better than what yamaha has to offer. Not to start a pissing match,but just because your trashing frames doesn't mean everyone else will.I spend alot of time at the track just watching alot of riders.Most of them could use a lttle work on there takeoffs and landings,instead they beat themselves up and their machines. Your best bet is to have someone video tape you.Thats all it took for me to correct my bad habits. When all you have is a shee,you have no other options but to learn how to ride it.

I'll put some pics in the image section this weekend

Just wanted to let you all know that I stepped in a pile of sh*t and came out smelling like roses. Came across a 87' banshee for sale at a local bike shop.It had a seized engine and I got away with it for 700.00 with good title The frame is straight as an arrow and with the exception of 4 J-arm bushings and swingarm bearings,everything is real tight.(even the ball joints)Suprisingly the paint was in very good shape. Heres the kicker: FMF fatties with powercore silencers(no dings or rust) Boysen rad valves Ac pro peg nerfs(like new) Ac bumper(new) Renthal bars Full skids All I invested was 20 for control arm bushings 45 for swingarm bearings,45 for brake pads and my original shocks from my 01' which are like new.Threw on the original dunlops from my 01' which I only used for 1 ride. Now I have 810.00 into a basically brand new rolling chassis and still have some change to rebuild the engine. I must have drove by that shop 10 times that week and finally I decided to stop and take a look,It had some of the nastiest plastics on it,but obviously looks can be decieving. There are still great deals out there,don't be afraid to investigate them.

I have a 93' Cr500r for sale.It has a Fmf Burly pipe,pro taper bars,newer tires,chain and an assortment of sprockets.This one is virtually stock other than the pipe.It has about 30 hrs on a new top-end.You can still see the crosshatching on the cylinder.Compression is about 140psi.I do have a clean valid title and its currently registered. This bike has been meticulously maintained and strickly trail ridden.Cold starts 2-3 kicks,hot starts in 1 kick.shoot me your email for additional pics. Looking for 2,200 or trade for 90&up Banshee of equal value with clear transferrable title.No title no deal.I'm located in the greater Cleveland area.

I can tell you that they didn't help on my Cr500,but a set of pro-taper fat bars helped a little. Imo the banshee isn't that bad,but then again,nothing really is after riding the CR for 5 hours.Talk about arm pump.

Never had a wreck on the shee to date,unless I count the holeshot that turned into the most violent wheelie and threw me off like I was riding a bronc bareback.I came up so fast that the guys racing on either sides of me(Raptor and 450)stopped when they saw my wheeles fly up past them. Dug about a foot deep tench with the bumper and bent it to shit.Didn't bend the rear part of the frame,but the powdercoat cracked,so it must have flexed quite a bit. Combination of holeshot XCT,super tacky dirt,bad reeds and first time on a new set of works shocks.They really make the front end light on launches.

Where are your screws at? 30's with clamp-on filters sounds right,but the mains will be wayy to small,especially with CPI. Also check your reeds,if they are worn it may contribute to your poor low-end performance and will make it very hard to dial it in

That looks like some serious detonation and the fact that you mentioned he was at half throttle leads me to believe that was the case even more. Alot of the guys here who had piston crowns look like that also said they were running the engine at a moderate pace when the engines failed.Too high of compression/timing or too low of octane combined with a possibly lean mix. Do a search,maybe you'll find some old pics and threads.

How much will they set us back?Pricing would be nice.

I like the ds650,especially the baja version.Its probably the only 4stroke quad I could see myself on if there were no 2 stroke alternatives. What you need to do is stop reading dirtwheels for their reviews,remember its just a couple of idiots opinions.They are probably anti 2 stroke people anyways.You know,the kind who had a 2 stroke,but were too stupid to ever get it to run right.So they now believe 2 strokes suck.One of the simplest and oldest engines known to man,yet they were unable to make it run,so they went and bought a 400ex or equivalent.

Not that I question your experience with synthetics and I do agree they work well in extreme conditions,but I service 2cycle power equipment as a side business for a few big landscapers.All of them run the top of the line synthetic oil mix,come season service I'm scraping deposits from the head and exhaust ports.Spark arrestors are completely clogged to where the engine won't even revv out. I convinced one guy to switch oils.He now runs echo powerblend(semi synthetic) and the difference is plain as day. The synthetic blends seperate and gel up very quick,In as little as two weeks of non-use.The carbs are very sensitive. I run yamalube in my weedeaters,blowerpack,chainsaw etc.The sit for 5 months over winter and fire right up in the spring,even with old gas.They would never do this on synthetics like optimax. IMO a great oil will offer superior protection,leave minimal deposits and not have a tendency to seperate from gas.Those little piston port engines live in the powerband.If they can survive on yamalube,anything can

Simichrome metal polish is by far the best I've used.Its not just for aluminum,it also works great on brass,copper,stainless,nickel etc. you'll find it in most motorcycle dealerships.It comes in a tube

I'm 6'1" 190 and theres no way I'd be caught dead on a 250 4 stroke..I went from CR125 to YZ490 to a CR500. Let me tell you,it didn't take long to get used to the power difference. Don't be afraid to buy a bike thats bigger than you think you need.If your a disciplined rider,you'll know how to respect the machine until your familiar with it. Anything less just feels so slow now.I've ridden a few "built" 250's on trail and I was impressed,but they just don't have it in the wide open areas or hill climbs. Once you go open class 2 stroke,you'll never want to ride anything else.

Warranty?On a 2 stroke engine?If you think yamaha will warranty any moving parts on their 2cycle engines,we all will laugh at you and so will they. But in a sense he's right,you can tell alot from the smell of exhaust.Since you can't get a wiff of your own blazing down the trail in 6th,you can only hope your riding buddies are somewhat educated in how the fumes are smelling. I saved a friend of mines 400ex from melting the motor on a lean mix,he would have probably noticed himself if he took a minute to look at the head pipe.

I use nothing but Yamalube 2R in the shee and Cr500.Will never run full synthetic again.Synthetics leave too many deposits.Golden spec and klotz the worst of the bunch IMO. Synthetics have a tendency to seperate from gas quickly. Yamalube is a good semi synthetic.I've ran golden spec,klotz and amsoil.I didn't notice any power or driveability improvement over the yamalube.The only thing I did notice is massive build up on the pistons and combustion chamber.Yamalube has showed hardly anything after 2 years and both machine have excellent compression. Theres nothing wrong with synthetic oils and there probably good for the most extreme conditions.Or in applications where the engine is being frequently dissassembled. Of course this is my opinion and will be subjected to scutiny

I have always been a fan of forged pistons,but not of there need for extra bore clearance. IMO they sound like death when there cold.Only after there warmed up do they quiet down. Unfortunately there the best choice for severe duty applications(i.e dragging duneing etc) But for trail riding and the weekend warrior(mild motors),I would recommend a good cast piston. I've got about 60 hours on my 01' and it still has about 135 psi with a .025 milled head/+4 timing,not bad for original rings and pistons.It all depends how you take care of your machines.I can't diss the cast piston cause its held up on my shee.

All I can say is good luck,you can waste your time drawing illustrations or explaining the whole situation to the judge,but your still gonna have to pay the ticket.Remember its your word against theirs.Since tickets were issued to multiple motorists at the same time and location,I'm sure the officer will be present at court. Your only hope is that the officer doesn't show.If you really want to fight it,go to the first court date and plead not guilty.They will give you another trial date.At the next court date,try to spot the officer who cited you.If they didn't show than your home free,If they did,go to the prosecutor and just say you want to plead guilty.They will drop the case and you will just pay the fine and court costs.I've done this many times during my younger days and had almost half of the tickets dropped.Good luck

Keihn is very sensitive on the idle adjustment.The slightest turn will make a difference.Make sure you give the engine a few seconds to catch up after you make an adjustment. There should be arrows on the carb body indicating higher or lower.Like this <-->.