boonman

I forgot to address the detonation issue you brought up. You just basically echoed what I said, although in a clouded fashion. I did not say that detonation was not shown at lower RPM's. While it may be more NOTICEABLE, ie. pinging, that sort of business, does not mean that the risk is not greater at higher RPM's. And you said that in your reply. here: Did you not? Exponential rate. Because heat is a player in detonation. After all, it is the heat that would melt a piston, and the detonation that would blow it apart, would it not? And the hotter things get, the more prone to pre-ignition you are. correct? So, if we have a motor that has a case of detonation, runnign at high RPM's, building heat, now we develop hot spots, which cause pre-ignition, which fuels the fire already started by the detonation and we have a catastrophic failure. Do we not? Oh, I also like the double spacing of your posts. It makes it that much easier to read especially for people like me who you look at as having feeble minds!!!! I am just trying to get the right info out here. not BS. So get to the policing, and get some correct info out here....

I know it wasn't directed at me, however, i felt the need to jump in because noone seemed to get the jist of it. And you want to talk about a bike that (CR250 aforementioned) is designed to run on pump fuel. Yep, designed. Did they take a dome from an RM250 and throw it in there? Nope. So, therefore we can conclude that the dome in that bikes motor, FROM THE FACTORY was "custom" (and I am using that word loosely, because not many people use it in the right sense) designed by the engineers for that engine. And your statements about the pipe, and all that VE and what not, just simply makes you point out yourself that you are overlooking things here. We WERE talking about cold cranking compression Vs. octane requirement. NOW, it seems we are bringing running engine characteristics. The individual that started this thread was looking for a dome size that would be good for his bike. That seems to be a DREADED question on these forums. How is my statement incorrect? Are you trying to tell me that you can kick over an engine fast enough to bring the pipes characteristics into play on a compression check, remember, (with the engine off). I highly doubt it. so, on a cold compression check, the exhaust port height would have ALOT to do with it. And it doesn't decrease necessarily speaking the are in which it is compressed in. if that was the case, why would squish be so vital in an engine's combustion chamber? The Head at TDC is maximum compression, is it not? compression STARTS taking place when the piston travels past the exhaust port. Is that not correct? So what you're trying to tell me is that if the exhaust port height, on a cold compression test was 30 degrees lower, that it wouldn't yield a higher compression value on the guage if nothing else was changed? And if the exhaust port height has nothing to do with the static compression, than why does the static compression drop on a ported motor? I would love to hear your theory on that. I am not being a dick here, just pointing out that things are getting overlooked ALOT and the subject changes quite frequently. And check back in with your real name please. I don't hide behind any names. I don't think you should either... I am not trying to cut you down, and I have no hostility. I apologize if my post came across as that way. i did not mean it in that manner. I just want the truth. Apparently though, some peeps can't handle it. And Deuce, Damn man, I wanna take your bike for a rip!!!!!!!! Also, I am by NO means defending RKT here. I have no affiliation, and find it funny that he thought I was you BS. Me and RKT have had our "discussions" in the past. But I have a firm belief on this. I would like to be corrected if I am wrong here. I do not disagree completely with this statement, however, in the context of a static compression check, this is not the case. On a static compression check, there is no combustion, therefore the pipe has no bearing on the equation. You could take the pipe off the motor, and the static compression would remain close to a number of that in which the pipe was on the motor.....

what a worthless POS. Harley open exhaust on a 2-stroke? Yep, I bet that thing is craaaaazzzzy fast......

So, $30,000 and you would still get wasted by a stock shee...... LMMFAO!!! And we're not talking about MX here boys and girls. Draggin'............ And you would still have a Honda.......

I run ONLY Pioneer decks, and Polk Audio speakers. Earthquake subs, and a Profile amplifier for the subs. They are good for the buck, but it you are competing, you ned the lowest class you can get in, so you would have to look elsewhwere. Orion is good, and so is U.S. Amps. I used to run U.S. when I was competing. Anyways, you only asked about decks, and I Highly recommend Pioneer. I have NEVER liked Alpine. They just don't hold up IMHO. I am sure there people who have had luck, but I have pounded my Pioneers through mud, snow, water, shocks, ALOT of off road and they work flawless. My Sony Mobile ES decks never held up when I tried them, and EVERY Alpine I have tried has been a waste of money. Clarion I won't even look at anymore, they disgust me. Eclipse are nice too, but I would take Pioneer over them....

that would be a cheaper route than the way I want to go. I haven't had a chance to check it out yet. I screwed up my S-10 and I have to fix that first...

You can do a compression check to see what's up. If there is a difference of more than 5PSI between the cylinders, than it is time for a rebuild. If you are below 100 PSI on a stock bike, than it is time. I would hold off on the rebuild kit for christmas untill you find out what bore your cylinders are at....

There is a gap at the ends of the ring when it goes around the piston. Kind of like a snap ring. if the bore is too large, there will be a gap in between the ends of the rings. Did the person doing the machining on the cylinders fit the cylinders to the piston?

is the fuel turned on? Try reserve. The petcock could be plugged, or the needle valve could be stuck shut. Is the coke circuit working properly? Is there fuel in the bowls? Are you POSITIVE the carbs are clean? Did you clean them with compressed air and brake cleaner?

PT mids are a goood choice for hill climbing...

Why in the hell am I thinking of 3/4" hose?

Just make sure you line up the sprocket and all. You will have to run honda brakes as well. And scott, thanks for the info on the axle spline!!!!!!!

Which cylinder is smoking more? What does it smell like? if it smells god awful on the right side, you blew a crank seal

That's why. Stop being so damned lazy, and read the post you lazy @#$%^&*!!!

I never had a problem with mine. i just cut it off, and used a tether and a CR250 kill button. no problem since too!!! But I would be suspect of a bad ground, broken wire, or dirty contacts...

You can use I believe it is 3/4" heater hose.

Yep. Time for a new basket. With an ear gone, balance is out the window, and others will soon follow in the breaking process. I don't know about you, but the idea of grenaded parts flying about in the tranny just doesn't excite me.,..

I was thinking along the lines of a head gasket as well. But, when my head gasket went, it just overheated, and hot seized. Now, you say the steam is coming from the radiator. Well, is the ENTIRE radiator steaming? Or is it coming from one spot. I find it hard to believe that after one minute of idling,(you did let it idle on the first fire up, didn't you?) it would be hot enough to steam. I am thinking that smoke could be coming from the pipes, or something else. If there was fluids slopped around, than that could be now burning off. Is the fuel in the tank mixed up? Or did the oil settle to the bottom? Did you put O-rings in the exhaust? What kind of pipes do you have? The next time you fire it up, try pulling the radiator cap off. Then start it up. If you get a face full of coolant, you have a head gasket leak. You need to pinpoint the problem. I find it extremely hard to believe that the entire radiator is steaming....

I agree on 99% of it!!!!!!!! I hope that we all can pull together like in the past, and keep up the HQ!!!! it needs help from us all!!

www.marissa.org

12 seems to be the norm rather than the exception. It makes me feel good that My DOdge, on 44's gets around 8. if I nurse it, and am on a trip, I can get 9+!!!!

Sneeky!!!!! That is some serious business there!!!!! I fear that every time I ride....

I am running 44x19.5x16.5 Swamper boggers, 30x11.5x15 SX swampers and 32x11.5x15 SX swampers. Oh, you mean the shee, well, it depends on the day. But, most of the time, 21-7-10 Fast trekkers are found on the front. You must not be lookijng in the right spot...

Well, everyone knows that Cummins are the sturdiest truck motors out. And the Allison tranny ain't a bad thing to have. And the fact that it is a ford chassis ain't bad either. Especially for running 36" tires. You could do it with either a Ford or a Dodge. A Chevy just ain't gonna handle it with that damned IFS. And Propane, you bet your ass. My buddies all have PSD. I am the only Dodge truck guy out of them except for one other. Their trucks, with no propane will flat out WASTE a rustang. Pretty much anything on the street you throw at them, GOOOOOONE. And they all do it on 40" tires...... My next truck will either be a PSD or a Dodge. I am leaning towards the Ferd, only because i have to go used, and I want a crew cab.

I don't like the 6.0L. They are a fairly underpowered motor, even for a full size truck. I have no doubt that it will do what you want it to though, just not very quickly. I mean, I have towed 24' enclosed trailers with my S-10 Tahoe. It did it no problem. But, it has 400 horseys under the hood. Pretty much anything new is a wise investment. I wouldn't expect much from the manuf. warranties. They are loking for anything to screw you and void it...