boonman

You could do it. However, which axle is the X-33 axle for? The shee, or the 250R?? I used a banshee lonestar axle, and a banshee round style carrier. The two are not interchangeable, (between the R and the shee.) Here is a link to the thread I just posted in. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18576 There are some pics. WHat more do you want to know? It is possible, however, keep in mind, you will then have to use 250R wheels on it as the bolt pattern will be different.

shouldn't be that hard to tell...

No worries man, I just wrote a damned book...... Hopefully it won't piss too many people off. And if it does, oh well........

Don't get the wrong idea, I'm not bashin young'ans. I was one once too. But man, they have to learn a little before they go firing off useless stuff.

Also, the clutch springs (in the pressure plate) can only return the handle so far. In order to utilize the free play that you are supposed to have in the handle, there must be something to take the pressure of the engagement arm. What if you held the clutch lever taught while riding down a straight. not enough to disengage it, but enough to 'take the free play out" of it. This would be bad. It would be forcing the ball and rod to go against the now moving pressure plate... Also, look which side the spring is mounted on...

I hear ya. But, remember this, the marks are only used to set the arm in the correct position to get maximum engagement/disengagement throw from the lever. Being that the cable is not ran to the arm like a twist throttle is in the housing, it moves on an arc, and therefore, needs to be put in a specific spot. Thik of it like this, what if you moved the arm , in it's arc, towards the cable housing mounting point on the case. Would you get maximum movement out of the lever? No. Because the arm would run out of movement. you use the arrows to set the position, because of varying clutch disc thickness. That's why there is an adjustment on the screw in the pressure plate.

I am working on this

Trinity or graydon Proline. Dual, harder to tune, but usually yield more power. Siungle gives usually better throttle response...

Your finger. The arrows on the case are not for free play. You are supposed to push lightly enough with your finger to take up the free play that the spring provides. (By keeping the arm away from the rod) They are to adjust the proper amount of clutch arm throw. it has to be in the right plane of the arc of movement to get the correct pull. It only moves a certain amount with resppect to the clutch lever pull. You see, once you set the arm arrow to the case arrow, and you set your free play, the arrows will no longer line up. Or rather, they shouldn't. edit: Also, if the spring pushed the arm against the rod and ball assembly, there would be constant pressure on the ball against the pressure plate. Also, the reason there is free play, is because the ball MUST be de-pressurized from the pressure plate. Otherwise, the thing would weld itself to the rod all the time. Also, if the spring worked that way, what would pull the lever back to full extension when you released the lever? You would have virtually no way to check the free play..

It is a good thing. However, it is just a band aid for the problem of the carbs sticking. And no, to my knowledge, there is no twist that keeps the TORS

And this is what I'm talking about: Yea, I know......... I am unsure too. probably because noone gets the point? good!!! NEVER!!!!!! Why the hell not. That seems to be the trend around here lately..... Me neither Nope. if we let people do what they want, (which by the way, was the case untill some peeps invaded the board with carelessness.) than it will come to what it has now.... another year or two with nonsense like what has been going on and this site will be useless. it shows. And isn't it against the law for a 14 year old to be on a shee?

Now I know you have mental problems. No wonder why you can't spell. You ned to live in seclusion from the "real" world. Like the kind of seclusion where you walk around in a little white coat, (with your arms strapped around) and receive regular electric shock therapy. Jesus man, get a friggin grip......

LOL what is going on i was right the first time......i was thinkin straight. WTF is wrong with you????

T6 pipes are designed to work best on a stock ported motor. It's not that they won't work at all, it's just that there is better equipment (pipes) out there that will work better for porting. Would you run out of fram drag pipes on a stock motor? you could, but it wouldn't run any better than stock... your motor can suggest a pipe that will suit his port job. And if he can't, than he doesn't belong building ay motors...

do you want an entire bike?? or just a motor??? Do a search if you want just the motor. if you want the bike built by someone else, you are either really good-(pro), or really not. I would suggest looking to either PassionRE, Patriot Racing, or Grand River racing. They are well respected, known builders...

Yes sir I did read your post. I however think that you did NOT read mine. At least not with an understanding of it. Here's why. AGAIN Now, you say a moderate engine making 145 PSI on a guage. now, I ask you, what is the port timing of this motor??? And you ask why exhaust duration has anything to do with it? well, if you have a high exhaust port, the amount of air that actually gets compressed into the top end will be less. Thus, making your compression guage read lower. Why in the hell is that hard for you to understand? Now, another point, RPM does have a factor in detonation. At low RPM, you may be able to get away with a certain amount of detonation. look it up, as you say. At higher RPM, it will become more apparent, and perhaps cause catastrophic failure if it is severe enough. Your cranking cold compression does not have a large factor in your determination of race fuel or not. if you know all about combustion and motors, you would know this. I am POSITIVE, that ANY respected builder will tell you that. Now, for proof of my point of losing compression on a guage when porting is done, ask anyone who has had porting done, and knew their compression before porting. Now, what is there compression when they got it back? Less if nothing else was changed. Why do you think the common thing was to get smaller domes when you get a motor ported? Are you trying to tell me that a stock motor with 16cc domes is going to have a lower compression than an aggressively ported motor with the same 16cc domes?? With respect to what you will find on a guage. As the piston is on it's upstroke, it is pushing the air/fuel mix up the cylinder with it. if the top of your exhaust port is higher than stock, (which would get the exhaust out quicker on the previous downstroke) than some of the mix will be lost out the pipe untill the piston travels high enough to effectively close this exhaust port off. It is then, and only then that the air starts to be compressed. So, mr policeman, I ask you, why would you ask about what exhaust timing has to do with compression numbers and the use of race fuel? Are you telling me that a drag ported motor with 145 PSI on the guage doesn't need race fuel? I beg to differ with you. Your cold compression should NOT be used to determine octane rating. I don't know how else to explain it... I fully understood it. He only mentioned a motor. So you have any idea about the porting configuration before you go shooting your fingers off???? I would like to know what your other screen name is. And I would like to see a heavily ported motor, at 145 PSI that doesn't run race fuel. I don't think there is one. 145 PSI on a stock motor is WAYYYYYYY different than a ported one....

Here are some pics of my round carrier and -2" mod. I think it may even be -2.5" There you have it. I got my round tube from alloy specialties, and I am using an Americn Star racing carrier. It is for a banshee axle, NO you cannot use a banshee carrier with a honda axle, and you cannot use a honda carrier with a banshee axle either. The axles are 2 different sizes.

Just had another quick thought, if you were sitting there with your bike in neutral, and the clutch pulled in, the pressure plate, and tranny will most likely be spinning. So, moral of that is that you should be in gear while standing still, with the clutch pulled in...

This I would understand then. I can see that. And yes, I have PLENTY of welding experience, and training. Now, to address some other things I found in here, (I haven't checked this thread in a couple days now..) is that Fixitrod, Thanks for catchin my back, but also, the spring on the clutch engagement lever actually pulls the lever AWAY from the rod. Thus, taking pressure off of it. This is why free play is critical. if there is no free play, than the spring and the whole system basically won't work as designed. I am sure the ball spins while you are moving, but there is little to no pressure that is supposed to be applied to it at that time. Slipping the clutch on a start should NOT weld the ball to the rod. Coasting with the clutch in will. Sitting there revving the shit out of the motor with the clutch pulled in while you are STOPPED should NOT weld the ball. jethro, i am sorry, but i just don't agree with this statement. The crank is spinning the outside of the clutch. the 'fingers" if you will. this moves the fibers. The inner hub, with the steel plates, is what is connected to the tranny. The clutch engagement rod goes through this shaft. If you are not moving, the pressure plate isn't either. The pressure plate is what contacts the ball, as has been mentioned earlier. Even if your clutch basket is whooped, and looks like the elusive sharks teeth, and you have to stand on the rear brake, and give her WOT to keep it running when you put it in gear, you will still not weld the ball. There is no spinning action on it. The only time that inner hub moves, is when the bike does.

Well, what you need to know? I was there.........

you have got to be kidding. I say race him on foot........

lmmfao!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Why don't you just sell the pipes, get it ported and put different pipes on? it would be cheaper....... Or, just buy a 450 too

You have got to be kidding me. I have an AC grab bar, and it does just fine. Strong as shit. I would worry about breaking your frame. if you hit the grab bar, and you keep riding on it, or if you hit it hard enough, you are going to flip the bike anyways. Like I posted for you before. it acts like a pivot point at higher speeds, and you are going to clown yourself all over the trail. I think you need to worry moe about your riding skills, or lack thereof before you worry about something like a friggin grab bar. i don't mind helping people out, but you are being ridiculous.

If this is true, you have changed your tune rather quickly. I seem to recall a post this morning in fact It's right here where your tune was ALOT different. I hope that this trend continues among the new folk. I love helping people out, (oddly enough) and it sickens me when people just start fucking around.