boonman

Because too many people rely on them for their information and take it as gospel. They don't realize that Mission paid for that article, call it advertising. call it whatever.

Did you wire the regulator/rectifier before the battery or after? Your stator puts out AC voltage. You need to change it to DC before it gets to the battery. Your lights should run on AC, but the lights should be running off of the DC from the battery. and you are running about 8.3 amps per light. 16.6 total. I would try a 25 amp fuse, provided the wire you have in there is heavy enough to handle the current?

AMEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It shouldn't have to come to that. It is not necessary. But what is necessary is for people to have an understanding about the site before one goes shootin their fingers off around here. it seems there has been an excess flood of nonsense lately. I am wondering if BT kicked a bunch of people off..........

I suggest learning how to ride a little safer so you don't hit the grab bar...

Mission Yamaha doesn't post here. You can either call them, or pick the brains of the builders who do post here. they can be found in the forum "questions for banshee performance shops". there isn't really anything out of the ordinary on the article you listed. And BTW, I HATE ATV mags.......

That sounds like 1/2 the shees on this site. No biggie. I doubt it would run on pump fuel. depending on what was done to the head. And the port work.

That rhymed!!!! lmao!!!! but, as you state, all things being equal, meaning same porting, same everything, except compression, I don't know how it can be possible. I am not an expert on the situation, but I am not a moron on it either... I would think that 2 motors, same exact everything, if RKT cut the domes for both bikes, optimizing the combustion chamber on both motors, how the lower compression one could yield more power..... All i was sayin was that with porting, static compression numbers mean nothing anymore..

i do not doubt that in mud runs and things of that nature a dominator would do fine. It is flat runs....But I am speaking of off camber situations, uphill, downhill, all sorts of business that a dominator wasn't designed to handle. I am glad that you are happy with it, but I think that in his situation, the truck carb would be a better choice....

There certainly is. However, I am NOT being a "Dick". Had you searched, you would have found out who the engine builders are, and could have PM'ed them directly to gather their thoughts. There is NO need to be posting more and more stuff. Bump the thread if your questions weren't replied to. or, PM people, that's what it's there for. If you got replies, and didn't think they answered your question, than reply to their reply with something like, "hey, thanks for shootin' me back about the stroker crank, but what have you heard about having a stroker big bore???" Not some shit about people not replying to your posts. because they are. i apologize if it is not the answer that YOU want, but you gotta understand. How many people do you think are on here EVERY DAY that have a stroker big bore. Meat was just asking about a stroker for his shee. he has a 404 kit, perhaps you could 2 and 2 together and see that the big bore kit works well, and the stroker adds further displacement, and torque. So, what do you think will happen? Properly set up, that f'ing thing will rip. If you have the $3-4,000 to drop on getting this motor built, I wanna see it when it's done!!!! That sounds hellacool. Calm down, and as I said before, I am telling you here and now, that if you build a stroker big bore, it will flat out rip. But, do it right the first time. Use a reputable builder. My suggestion to you would be PassionRE, Patriot Racing-(backcountry), Grand River Racing, and a couple others that have slipped my mind. I am getting ready to make my decision on who will be building my drag motor. Those that I have spoke to know who they are, and what i want to do. It will be a one off motor, and I have some ideas that I would like to try and pursue. Start talking to people instead of flaming threads to the HQ about your dissatisfaction. Give it a chance......

Good point. Also another thing that comes to mind, is that they are good for spacing the intakes for clutch arm clearance on larger carbs..... For performance reasons, by themselves are a waste of money..

on second thought, I am going to give you the newbie chew. I just searched all your posts, and found that you posted the same exact post in 3 different forums. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=0entry130501 http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=0entry130273 http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=0entry130271 This is a NO-NO. I also noticed that there was 4 good replies to one, and 2 replies to another one. Perhaps people saw that you had posted in numerous forums with the same shit. That is the reason for the seperated subject content of the forums. You posted this in the 3 forums. it should have been in only one. Repairs and mods. Where was the question to the banshee performance shop? When the shops owners come in here, and see posts like this in their forum cluttering it up, I'm sure they are asking themselves WTF is up with this. Thyis is the reason why Mods were put into effect. I looked and saw alot of good answers to your question. perhaps you would just rather ask the questions, and not give a rats ass about the answer? I know people like this. They ask you something, you give them your opinion, and they ream you out? that isn't right. The members here have EXCELLENT advice, and while we don't know it all, between everyone here, someone has the right answer. And if someone provides an incorrect answer, someone is 99% of the time there to correct it. that's just HQ manners. Learn them, and you will be alot further ahead.

That would be a bad choice, and not cost effective to use the stock crank and later on plan to use a stroker. Do it all at once. The less times you have to split the cases the better. Unless you have nothign better to do with your time. it is not cheaper to get a 404 kit than to rebuild the motor. what did you do? burn up the top end? No biggie. Bore job-$40 per cylinder, often times cheaper. Piston kit, with gasket set-$145, even new upper rod bearings usually come with a Wiseco kit. I recomment Wiseco pistons. I would NEVER put stock pistons back in my bike. Do a search, and read up on it and make your decision between cast and forged. I have Fattys right now, and I love them. Great all around pipe. A T-6 or T-5 will give you wicked top end power, but you sacrifice your midrange to lower end of the RPM band. A stroker will get you some torque down low, and make more power really all around. I would save the 404 kit for when you are on your last bore of .100" over.

IMHO spacers do not work. Also, try the repairs and mods section with stuff like this. You will get a better response. ALSO, the search function is great!!!!!!! Please use it. there is numerous threads here dealing with tis. You can answer about 1/2 of your questions by using this...

I'm on AIM all day. Boonman48 I'll answer anything for ya I can. And I believe I have replied to alot of your questions as well. You need to be patient. I did the EXACT same thing you are now when I first started coming here. I got flamed to no end. I stuck around, and learned the ropes. I was very impatient. I know what it's like to have questions and no answers. be patient young skywalker, and in time, things will come around...

What y'all failed to notice hear, is that just because an engine has 140-150 PSI, that doesn't determine what fuel you ned to run. BSpolice, or whoever you are, is the one that is clueless. DO you know the port configuration and exhaust height and/or duration of the motor(s) that RKT has built that are in question here? Nope. That statement isn't the opposite. Here's why. Say you have your bone stock motor, stock porting, stock everything, and you throw some 17cc domes and a coolhead on it. Now, lets say this yields you 170 PSI on a guage. you may or may not need race fuel. By the past thinking, you would run it, because you are over the 165 barrier. Now, lets say you send your cylinders off to be drag ported. You get the cylinders back, and throw it together. Lets say you now have 135 PSI on the guage. You scream oh no, and throw some 16's in there. Lets say that that brought you up to 145-150. You think, well, i'm under 165, so, no race fuel for me. So, you fill up wth 93, 94, or 91, whatever is the highest available, and you head out to Olds hill. You line up, take off, and halfway up the hill you have catastrophic engine failure. What happened? I'll tell ya, because you obviously don't know. DETONATION. Right here in this prime example it shows that cold cranking compressions CANNOT alone determine the octane requirement or all out performance of an engine. you don't need a ton of compression on a properly designed top end. I prefer to use the term top end, because if you have a shitty port job, and a rippin' combustion chamber, what will you get? Or, if you have a sweet port job, and a shitty combustion chamber, what will you get. SHIT. Everyone overlooks the fact that compression alone isn't top be used as a deciding factor in fuel selection. Well, not everyone...... And just stating that because an engine has 140 PSI and requires race fuel that it has a poorly designed head, is just simple ignorance. You don't even know the porting specs on it. So, how can you comment on whether or not it sucks? Maybe you are the almighty being, and can magically see these things. Either way, keep posting, I find your ignorance amusing.....

What is the squish? There could be a problem with that cylinder. BEing that it is the right cylinder, that pretty much eliminates a crank seal, because it would be sucking oil from the tranny. You would know it, it would be smelling like crap. You could have an air leak at the intake, base gasket, or both. I had a leak in the intake boot on the right side once..... Couldn't even find it on a 7" leakdown. Anyways, go to the local parts store, (automotive) and they will have mityvacs there for brake bleeding purposes. This is what you need to do the leakdown test..

That in itself is a funny statement. Unless he gave it a spark test, or he is a fantastic metallurgist, he really can't say anything about heat treatment. I would like to know how you "wear off" a heat treatment. I have heard of distempering, but never wearing off? Very odd. Was there accelerated wear on the ball and/or shaft? This could point out that the metal was softening up, and losing it's case hardness.....

Can your stator handle the lights?

I found it!!!!!!!!!! It's called bolt cutters.....

That's ludicrous man.... EVERYONE knows our banshees are 6.7 stroke and run on 440Volt 9 phase electric power........

I have seen this happen right in front of me. Dude F'ed up his '01 shee, in the return lane, doing a wheelie, screwing around. It got away from him, hit the grab bar, the bike twisted sideways in the air, and went end over end for about 50 feet. Twisted the left front spindle off, sheared both silencers off the frame, SEVERELY bent the subframe, and he was bruised up pretty good. Oh, not to forget the handlebars were wrapped around the tank as well. He escaped without serious injury, but, had it been with more speed, on harder ground, it could have been deadly....

Not even close. How's FREE sound?????? I usually get anything I ask for for nothin. If it's on a rack in the building, I can have it 9 times out of 10. The only steel I have paid for in the last 3 years has been my Chromoly tubing for the trucks. Other than that, it's FREE!!!!!!! How jealous are ya now???????? I'm gonna have to lock the shop from now on!!!!

You have got to be kidding right??? Dominators ain't worth a piss off road. if we were draggin, that would be one thing, but off road, it's a completely different ball game. I am currently running a Holley 750 single pump in my S-10, and I am switching to an Edelbrock 600. Not a truck avenger, just a normal edelbrock. They are way better off road than any holley ever thought of being. (Aside fromthe truck avenger of course.....) I would go wiith the truck avenger. I don't know how much you got the big block built, but go with the smallest CFM possible for the best throttle response. If you built it mildly, (RV cam and such) than I would think a 650 CFM would be fine...... it will still provide the power up top, and will provide much better throttle response down low...

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18505 You have a float stuck. The lower hose is the overflow........