boonman

I was changing spindles like it was going out of style with the snomoshee. Now, anything that is taper locked, (like a spindle ball joint, or a ball joint or tie rod end on a car) can be seperated by hitting the side of the piece that is connected to the ball joint. Be sure that you loosen the nut first. Please do not hit the threads on the stud, as a stubborn ball joint may not come out this way. Here is a pic to hopefully help you...

The current cure is to get aftermarket carbs. Something in the stockers causes them to stick. In the winter, it can be a problem. Mine would freeeze up if I got an excessive amount of snow packed in and around them...

I do head mods. I will not take off any more than .030" for anyone. Any more than that and you will get an improper squish and risk serious damage. You will see some nice gains, and I am sure you will like it. I have not had one complaint.... Just make sure it is set up properly before you go cutting away. I made a jig, and I use a surface grinder..... and here is a finished head, .030" off...

No timing, no distributor, none of that made a difference when Yamaha engineers made their decision. They could have programmed whatevrr they wanted for timing into the CDI. The deciding factor here is cost. Simplicity and cost effectiveness were the ultimate factors in the single coil system that the banshee uses. When one cylinder is at TDC, the other is at BDC. When the cylinder that is up fires, the cylinder that is down gets a useless spark. There are 2 timing marks on the flywheel. It is cheaper and cost effective to run one coil, and have the cylinder at BDC spark a useless spark than to have a two coil, two pickup setup on the bike. You could eliminate the useless spark with a custom ignition-(CDI) and another pickup coil that is 180 degrees from the original. You would also need another coil, along with a single timing "mark" on the flywheel. But, the system works fine, unlike some other Yamaha systems, (TORS) lol. Anyways, that's the jist of it.

Aren't those one in the same? I thought that was a pre-requisite for owning a jeep? LMAO!! Sorry SandStar, I couldn't resist the temptation. I do love puling jeeps out of the trail though...... Nothing personal, just playin'.......

I guess y'all have had better luck than I with Alpine units. I have had nothing but problems with them. All my pioneer units have been nothing but good. Put them in, and they never have to come out. I don't know about the Mustang of CD decks, but I am sure there are alot of them out there. I had nothing but problems wit hthe SOny Mobile ES unit I had, skiping all the time with Bass, and it wouldn't play burned CD's. Put a Pioneer in there, problem sonved. Alpine units always fell apart from wheeling. They don't handle 5' + jumps at all, or the rattling/vibrations from off-road from my personal experience. I guess it's just a mtter of personal preferance. I am sure that most anoyone will be happy with whatever they buy. There is a deck for everyone.

Thanks man!! And yea, the Vegas crew is pretty good. I have met up with the Star Boyz a few times, they are from Ohio, and they can ride pretty good themselves. I am kind of out of the stret bike scene for various reasons, but maybe getting back into it sometime or another...

Hey!! Them skis look familiar!! And it looks great man. Glad you'r havin' fun with them!!!

Should have bought a lonestar...

Ski-Doo Mini-Z. Perfect size for a person of your size...

Otis, you have me LMAO!!!! I don't run them all one one rig. That could cause some serious difficulty!!! 3 different rigs, and unfortunately 2 of them are Chevy's........

Bring on the snow........... But, for daily duties, my S-10 Tahoe with 30" SX swampers goes through anything. I drive 43 miles to work one way on North-South roads, (those that drive in snow know what I am talking about) and I pull everyone out along the way. The Dodge is unstoppable in the snow, but rarely sees winter driving. Too much damned salt on the roads........ And Ninja dood. Please man. I can't help but think that you have ever driven on snowy roads. Let alone driven at all. You have really got to be kidding. I see peeps driving around here all the time in friggen Geo Storms with bald ass tires going through some shit......

I didn't even realize it. But with a name like "stoned banshee" I am not sure about which "pipe(s)" you are referring to?

Nope, and I ain't gonna jump nowhere either.......

You shouldn't ASSUME. You will make an ASS out of U and ME......

So when you guys bleed do you change your pad also? Not a necessity. Well, unless you want to keep the mess to a minumum. But, we are talking brakes here. All that happened is that the piston is too far away now and has to get back to the caliper. Pump the pedal, and all will be fine...

Keep pumping my friend. it will come back trust me

Rear brake setup see #9, them are the brake pads. The rotor goes in between those..

stop with the anger man. Please. The rotor goes inbetween the two brake pads. That's why the brake pads are there.

And what is "dbike"???

you won't have any fun if you don't get the rear brake problem fixed.....

There has to be enough room. You have to manually push the piston back inside the caliper. Like the "turtle" but different. Hopefully, someone's gotta know about the turtle??? How about the road map?

front/rear, don't really matter. There is supposed to be a pad against the round thing-(called a piston) and a pad against the squarish looking thing. Then, the rotoe goes in between the two. In order to fit the rotor into the caliper in between the pads,

Nice, Screamin, I beat ya by seconds my cuz!! Anyways, after going through that post S L O W, I think I got the solution. You must push the piston back into the caliper when you change the brake pads. Otherwise, the new pads, with the new brake material on them will not provide enough gap to slip the disk in between them. Here is a shot of my rear brakes... You can see the outside pad. The other pad is on the other side of the disk. Most all disk brakes work on the same principle...

Holy cow!!!!!! Anyways, which end are you talking about? front or rear? Let me try to clear that post up for you as well..