boonman

I am a big fan of Polk audio speakers. For clean mids and tweets. I am not sure if they are still around, but A/D/S used to have the BEST high end speakers IMHO. I have never heard anything better. I absolutely hate MB Quartz anything. It provides a fake sound to the music that I don't like. Too "tinny" for me. I have never heard a MB Quart speaker sound good, no matter what size it is. Keep in mind that imaging will diminish the farther you seperate the tweets from the driver. you want the music to come from the windshield. I have toyed with mounting tweets on the backside of the mirror, and delaying them a touch, and using the reflective properties of the glass to my advantage. That requires a tuneable imaging device, and I doubt you will get into that. In my Beretta comp vehicle, (6" drop, lots of other good stuff) I had door pods I made that housed 2 6" drivers, 1 tweet per door, and in the kicks I had 4x6 plates, and in the dash, I had 4T 2-ways. Talk about a front stage. That car required ear plugs. It was too loud. You could hear lyrics with the windows open from 2 blocks away. 3/0 welding cable for power wire. It was a nice rig!!! Anyways, I like a good front stage and that is where your focus should be. Get a good component set. Don't go with too many speakers if you can't time them. You run the risk of getting a possible echo in the truck. However, different speakers provide their own kind of sound. it depends what you like, and what you listen too. I highly recommend either Polk or A/D/S if they are still around. For amplifiers, it depends where you go and what you want to spend. Get a really good amplifier for your drivers and tweets. Subwoofer amp isn't as important. Good cabling is a wise investment. I haven;'t been in this for a little bit. PPI amps are a good clean amp. you can setup a good system for a good price if you shop around and ask questions.

I have never heard such nonsense as using a heat gun on the CDi box. You could have a weak stator though..... The lighting coil and the ignition coil in the stator are 2 seperate things though.....

NICE!!!!!!!!!!

B8ES or a B9ES.

Are you a crank checking professional? Do you build alot/have built alot of motors? Once you scatter debris into the lower end, you MUST clean it ALL out, or risk catastrophic failure once the engine is assembled again. It sounds as though there was a casting flaw in the stock pistons, and being that there wasn't any scoring in the cylinders, that leads me to believe that there wasn't alot of play. Also the low amount of hours on the bike. Did you break it in properly? I think the dealer is screwing you. Just because YOU can't see any scratches with your eye doesn't mean there isn't any/ I would take the cylinders to someone who knows their shit, and have them take a peek. You will at the very least need a hone job in there. And then get some good Wiseco pistons. And aviation fuel in a stock shee isn't necessary. You can use regular pump fuel. Aviation fuel is a very debateable subject. I am not gonna get into that either. Another thing strikes me as being odd. Being that this was a relatively new machine, I am betting that the motor has never been apart before. Therefore the crank wasn't welded. Being that you locked up the motor, I am telling you that the crank could have twisted out of phase. I had a lower rod bearing go, and it locked the motor up, Twisted the crank. If the crank is out of phase, you will be certain that you will have detonation issues in the future, and a lack of power. Timing will not EVER be right. You NEEED to have it looked at by a professional, especially when it locks up. it doesn't take much to twist a crank, and you had a severe failure. ABout as severe as it gets. it only takes on little piece of shit to get lodged in the bearing(s). It will toast the motor sometime in the future, it may come apart on the face of a 60' triple. It may come apart while you are warming it up.` You never know. Better to be safe than sorry. Trust me. I know from experience..... Tell the dealer what you want and don't take any shit from them. it iis their job to fix it and make it right under warranty.... Because if they put it back together, and then later on, when it is out of warranty, the $$$ is gonna come out of your pocket when you ned to have something fixed...

How about 720 miles a week????? My fuel stations know me well.......

NOTHING I drive gets over 9 MPG....

Running a heim joint there isn't a problem at all Led. No misalignment on them when they are used at the frame end of an A-arm. But when you start angling a rod end (heim joint) to the extreme, a normal end will not allow for it. If you look at the angle that that rod end is at on my tie rod, you will see you much it is. A normal rod end will not handle such angles. That's why I had to switch to the ball joint style. The rod ends that are used at the spindle end of A-arms, are of a high angle design. The have "ears" that come off to allow the ball to swivel that much more without binding.

I got your AMP link Dave!! I will be pulling it off soon. I also have some bearings to go with it for the rollers....

Read BenBB's jetting FAQ and there is a section on plug reading...

You will have to bore it anyways. You will also need to have your crank rebuilt, or get a new one. And you will also have to buy yourself a manual, and get that thing the hell away from the stealership. Boring the bike won't yield any more power. Only bore your bike when absolutely necessary, which is usually from damage. You won't have to change your jetting, and if the bike was stock, how many hours did it have on it? Were you running low octane mexican grade fuel? Detonation sometimes causes a skirt to break off especially if there is wear in the cylinders. Your dealer is floating you a line of bull shit. is that thing still under warranty?

in the snow it is tough to find traction. Especially on the road..... I used paddles on trails when I had the snomoshee out...

You dump about 4.5 gallons of boiling hot water in the tank, and throw the cap on it., and put some air pressure to it. The hot water softens the tank., and the air pressure blows the tank out and allows more fuel capacity......

This could not be a good thing... Anyways, I noticed that your bike is sucked down in the front. Are your floats at a correct level? If they are narginally high, than you could be dumping fuel into the cylinder(s). Also, take the little black box, which is located under the fuel tank, adjacent from the ignition coil, it has a 3 wire connector. Unplug it. it is the brain for the TORS. If there is something tripped that it doesn't like, it won't let the bike run properly....

Water in the fuel? What is the compression at? Did you change the jetting for the colder weather? You could have blown the top end... Pull the stator cover off, and check the keyway... Pickup coil could be out of spec, loose connection, dirty ground, it could be alot of things...

Advancing timing, increases the need for octane to go up. I don't think your timing is too far advanced, for race fuel that is. Pump fuel should never be run on anything more than 4.....

If you can't take the heat, .....................*

You should be able to stretch the intakes enough to squeak them in there. Use a heat gun to make the rubber softer...

Nope. I tried. Unless you go with high angle heims. However, those are expensive. Heres what I did: I made me up some 6061-T6 aluminum rods, and got me some 7/16" Ball joint style rod ends. Stud factory installed. I threaded my rods, and screwed the joints in. I then took a 7/16" drill and just cleaned out the hole in the spindle. (I already had made my steering stem with 7/16" holes in it) It was only a minimal amount of material taken out. Probably could be done with a file. Anyways, a ball joint style rod end or a high angle "heim" joint as y'all refer to them as will be the only thing that will give you enough misalignment to mount on the bike. I have 8 normal rod ends at home in the 7/16" dimension. Kind of made me mad I couldn't use them. They sported alluminum housings. Light as all fook. I may put them on the drag bike when I limit the suspension travel....

And here is my Dodge 2500. The first year I had it: I had Green and purple hair there too!! Truck has a 3" body lift and 33-12.5 Wild Country tires. Yeeeeehawww.... And there it sits with a 7" Skyjacker lift, 3" body, and 38.5-16 TSL swampers. Had fun then.... And there it sits atop 18" of lift, and 44" swamper bogger tires at the Bloomsburg Truck Jamboree. Kind of loooks like a tinker toy in the last pic there..... Wierd. Oh yea, the wife has a 2001 Focus. I nicknamed the F*ck us. Because that's all it does. i didn't bother to ever snap any pcs of it. Sorry if anyone wants any...

Dayummmmmm!!!!!! all y'all got some wicked shit to roll in!!!!! I am drooling, and I need another cup!!!! Man oh man. Evil that class 7, I want pics!!!!!!! Anyways, I currently own a couple S-10 Blazers, a '94 and a '91. And a '96 Dodge Ram 2500. my '94 S-10 Tahoe is a 4.3 CPI, and sports a 1.5" add-a-leaf in the back, and 30-11.5 SX Swamper tires. There it is seen running wood, (4"x4"x16', 6 at a time) on the roof back to my brothers property, (9/10 mile back) because the Kubota tractor couldn't do it. And there is what it looked like before I went home that day.... Oh yea, it's red BTW..... Here is my '91 Tahoe. It has a 3" body lift, and now has 32-11.5 SX swampers on it. I bought this beast for $350. Quite a steal. it wasn't in bad shape, and everything that needed to be replaced, I already had lifetime guarantees from the other Tahoe!!!! Pretty tricky!! But this little unit has a little surprise, that can be found here: That's under the hood. About 380 ponys in there. Hiding. Here is the dash: And this is what happened the first ride out!! broke a leaf. Shortly thereafter, the other side broke too..... It is a fun toy!!

Meat is relatively near there. I am about 8 hours away.. And Hazleton is pretty rocky I hear...

NICE!!!! I don't know why, but the little smiley icon has me LMMFAO!!!!

Excellent!! I can't wait to see this pupppy when she is all done!!!

Overpowering a speaker means nothing. If you feed a speaker crap, you will get crap. Overpowering a speaker doesn't blow it. Distortion does. And feeding a speaker sounds that it can't optimally reproduce. (ie. distortion) Anyways, I was in Circuit city one day, stopping in for a Cd player for the home rack system. I happened to stroll through the car audio department. I was in need of a new in dash anyways, (oddly enough it was an Alpine that blew. ) I stumbled upon a deal they had going. (This was last Christmas). it consisted of an MTX enclosure, and 2 12" Profile, yes, Profile subs. I have been running Earthquake subs for years, and I just couldn't afford another system. But my winter ride was in need of some sound. Anyways, this deal had the subs, a profile amp, and the box for $195. I also stumbled upon a deal on Polk audio speakers, (I LOVE POLK!!! ) for buy one pair geet a pair half off. I got new speakers in the dash and rear doors of the S-10, and I got that box, amp and speakers. I have been pounding the shit out of them since then. They look like the cheapest piece of garbage on the planet. But you know what, they have excellent SQ, and a sweet SPL pump. $ for $, I don't think I could have touched what is in there now. It is now the wifes rig, and it was stuff I didn't really care about. I actually expected to blow the shit up. But didn't. I have personally witnessed people pull into a DB drag, and smoke several JL's at once. Not overpowered. not feeding them garbage signals. Professionally set up systems. The first and last time I used JL's, they sounded like garbage. Tried making a few different enclosures. My strokers had better SQ than the W-4's I had. I would not take even a set of JL's best speaker out in trade for my wife's Profile subs. Never. Just MHO. I hate JL. Reliability IMHO is zilch. After thorough testing of these profiles, I would say they are better than Anything JL has out.