boonman

Have you disconnected the TORS brain module? Also, are the slides in the proper carb so that the cutaway faces the airbox? I can't see how physically you could start the bike with it on end, you would fall off? Are the float bowls on the proper carb? THere is a left and a right. The left bowl has 2 brass tubes, the right bowl has 1. Are you using the choke?

The flywheel gets chucked up in a lathe and turned down. 8 ounces of weight is removed from the the outer diameter of the wheel. 4.84" is the O.D. of the wheel after machining.

I don't know wtf is up with imagestation, but I do know that 99% of the time, if you right click on the red "X" box, and then select "show picture" it will come up....

There's no idle adjust on them carbs? SOmething tells me I would be fashioning something in there. Get a factory carb shee idle kit and drill it in there......

SOmeone already did/is doing this. ATVA is fighting this. Join your local ATVA and get in on the fight. www.atvaonline.com

Well, You would need a VERY sick mind, and some women's clothing... Very odd thing to do though. You may want to reconsider.....

Be ready for your chain to break. When they stretch that much, there is alot of wear on it, not to mention the ridiculously accelerated sprocket wear....

Cool review!!! Thanks boyz!!

I use a 3lb. dead blow hammer.........

LMMFAO!!!!! So true!! ANyways, on a serious note, there isa a funny thing about all the recent questioning of ATV injuries and deaths... You see, in the last five years, the statistics actually show a DECREASE in the ratio of injuries and/or death from ATV's. You see, the number of machines sold, exponentially increased, while the number of injuries suffered did not increase the same amount. So there are more machines out there, and not as many peeps getting hurt. They always fail to mention that.

Thoughts are with ya bro!! Hang in there!!

You are correct. Ron takes a couple more ounces with the slots. I do not do the slots....

This would lower compression. But, with shaving the head, and then re-cutting squish, you can get it perfect. Don't forget to overlook the fact that you said probably. You can't be using probably with anything when it comes to a motor. You have to KNOW what is up. by someone saying that they shaved the head .090" or whatever, you can't assume anything. You need to be sure...... I assume he had the chamber re-cut. Because there ain't no way that the motor is running with that much shaved off and no re-chambering.........

A hole in the center of the piston is not jetting. Jetting can attribute and provoke an already screwed up situation. You had a problem with detonation. Detonation blows holes in the piston, not jetting. Jetting will melt the piston at the exhaust port side. Lean jetting can help out by creating added heat. You need to run higher octane or lose some compression.....

That's what I was thinkin'!!!! And makes me lmao even more!!!! Precisely the problem. Make absolutely sure!!! if you didn't buy the bike new, don't believe a thing the previous owner tells you......

Check out my sig.

Oh boy......

Starting in the cold, I pull the choke out, kick it twice, and it fires up. A properly tuned bike will do this. If it doesn't, you have something wrong...... CLean the carbs, check your jetting....

I'm sorry to hear that you came close that many times. I myself have had much more experience in the face of danger and possibly death. Like dragging knee on the freeway, (yes, idiotic, but what a rush) and hitting a squirrel. Oops. Anyways, some here speak from experience, and some speak from "heresay". Well, here's what I have to say being that I have actually RIDDEN all the bikes in question. The 250, shouldn't be ridden by anyone who has had experience in riding any sort of motorized transportation. it is wayyyyyy too light for transportation, and you will hate life on a ride to work on a mild day with a light wind. You will get blown all over the place. I have owned a Ninja 500. it was my first bike. Excellent transportation. I sold it in 2 months. Took me a week to realize the error in my ways. A little heavier and more solid than the 250, but still underpowered. I then bought a Katana (can-a-tuna) 600. HAd a Yoshi pipe and new rubber for $2200. Had 2400 miles on it. Rode that for a couple years. Enjoyed the hell out of it. I put an air shifter on it, and just plain had fun. Sold it for more than I paid for it. Then bought a Ninja ZX-7R. Rode that for a few years, watched friends die, lots of friends take headers in front of me, behind me, wherever. Flip over concrete barriers and get whacked head on by the car(s) in the other lane. Pretty much been there and seen quite a bit. Never been down myself, and I sold my bike, and kept it that way. I can tell you this. You need to decide what you want to do here. you want transportation to and from work. So, do you want to be comfortable? Or do you want performance. Because a rocket isn't the comfiest of rides. The magna you mentioned is an awesome bike. How about a V-max? Insane power. Not the greatest handler, but good bike... I would not go with anythign less than a 600. If you do, you will soon find out why... And if you purchase a rocket, every day to work will be an enjoyable one, and you will take the long way home..........

I am in there 50 hours a week. M-F 6 AM- 4:30 PM EST.

You may, but remember, tooling is retardedly expensive. And with manual machines, it will take you forever to be making production runs of parts like an in line cooler that may take 10-15 minutes to do on an NC machine, will take you an hour or two in a manual machine....

I hit a pile too hard once and the 12- pack slid off the front seat and onto the floor boards.....

Bling bling!!!!!!!!

I beg to differ with y'all on this. because I have done this myself. I used Taylor wires on my bike and it worked fine. Only thing that caused a problem, is that you have to remember to use "R" type spark plugs. The stock banshee caps are loaded. WHich means that there is a resistor built in to the cap to decrease interference that may be fed back to the CDI. You have to remove the plastic clip that is on the coil, which pinches the wires and holds them in place and then unscrew the wires. Then, simply thread the new wires in there. I did this on my original coil and eventually ended up snapping one of the studs. If you have an older coil, I wouldn't recommend doing this. You may end up doing the same....

$40 including return shipping.