boonman

Here is a pic from Meat's site, www.thebansheezone.com . It shows the side view of a crank, and what is done when they are welded. It welds the lower rod pin to the crank web so that it can't twist or seperate. Banshee cranks are known for this to happen.....

TO check for ceank seperation, you don't have to split the case. Pull the cylinders off, and take the pistons off the rods. Check for excessive side clearance(s) and/or crank web rubbing on the case. It could be any number of things. You could have slipped a ring off, cracked a skirt, melted the top end down due to an air leak. What elevation are you at? You noted 20cc domes. You could have detonated and blown a hole in the piston. You could have an air leak and sucked air and melted the exhaust side of the piston. What is the compression on this thing now? If it doesn't run, something is wrong. Also, the crank could have started to seperate and twist. This would have threw the timing off and it could detonate that way as well.... A few things to ccheck here. elevation, compression, and a leakdown test. Look before you even crack a bolt on that motor. Especially a leakdown. Diagnose the problem before you even go inside....

You live in Ohio??? Where in Ohio?? If you're in the eastern side, get the hell up to my house, maybe a 1-2 hour ride. Welding the crank KEEPS THE TOLERANCES IN SPEC. How do these morons think things get out of spec? It either happens because of wear on the bearings or other parts and/or seperation of the crank lobes.... Welding the crank eliminates the latter of the two options... I wouldn't go back to those clowns. Doing a top end is simple. You need a top end kit. Which consists of a new set of pistons, rings, upper rod bearings and a gasket set. You may need to have the cylinders bored. That costs anywhere from $35-$50 per cylinder. The top end kit can usually be had for around $160. These guys sound like they have their asses on backwards. You can do this top end rebuild yourself. Grab a Clymer repair manual and get to it. Or, come to my house, bring some beers, and we'll do it. You pay for parts and beer. We'll finish the motor, and then have some beers. My wife will whip up some food, and all will be well. bring the whole bike, and we'll break the motor in and go ride.... Seriously, it's not hard.....

I would pull the motor down to clean out the crank bearings. or your crank will be the next thing to go. I have never had a piston related problem runnign Wiseco pistons. I will run nothing else. And to the guy that was cracking a skirt on a forged piston tells me something else is wrong with the engine.... Die grinding the head is not a good idea. Get a new dome, or a new stock head. They can be had off Ebay for cheap. If you grind it, you will lose compression and combustion won't be the same. Do as you wish though. it's your bike!!

I got some shit you can wrap the lines in. PM me and I'll send you some heat wrap.

Shizzle!!!! I hhave me some things I'll send. Some used valve stems for ya rims, And some stripped bolts. THink of it as weight savings. strip the threads off, and there's less material, thus less weight. I also have some used intakes with a hole in one, which will feed more air into the engine, and make more power. if you want to, I'll drill some jets out for you. I'll send you a 1/2" drill, and you can drill holes in the side of the cylinders to further feed it more air. THis will make power. I can send a few used hacksaw blades so you can cut the frame in half as well....

Get it to me with $25, and I'll do it, and send it back, and I pick up return shipping charge. Same day service....

Holy Good Christ there my boy. You waited a mere 20 minutes for a reply. It takes often times perhaps a day to get a reply sometimes here. Especially when you post this in the wrong forum. I'll shoot it over to the repairs and mods now...

Sorry folks that PM'ed me since last Tuesday. I have been away on a skiing exam. So, if I didn't reply and you were wondering why, that's the reason. You should have a reply by now. Oh yea, I passed!!!! Level 2 Alpine skiing certified!!! click HERE Peace....

I use my ratio rite, and 5 or 6 gallon cans. I keep my race fuel stored in VP fuel jugs. Or, in a 55 gallon drum. Then, I have a 6 gallon can to mix oil and fuel in. I also have a slew of 5 gallon cans that I keep 94 octane in. I just use the ratio rite for 2.5 gallons, and dump it twice for a 5 gallon mix. Got to do it twice, but it's not a big deal........ Oh yea, FYI, I mix my fuel of VP C-12 50/50 with 94 octane pump fuel at 40:1 with Klotz Super Techniplate oil.

Get ya ass back to Ronnies.com, and put in a quantity for the part(s) that you want. then press enter. It will take you to the order screen, and presto. You will have part numbers. Just don't order anything..... It is simple as that. They try to trick you. There's ways around it though....

What I want to know is, if the tennis ball was in there, than where was the racket??? LMMFAO!! Anyways, happy belated birthday, to you and Benny. I have been away all week and didn't see this till now!! SOunds like you had a good one though. With napping and all.

Awesome!!!! glad to see you made it!!!!

LMMFAO!!!! An Alba cannibal?? WOWWWWWW I am excited!!! Alba hasn't built a fast drag bike since, oh, about never. And what is funnier on this whole thing is the fact that you pimp the Fuel injection scenario. Ummmmm, yep. I remember the early and mid 80's when fuel injection was plastered over every vehicle that had it like it some big fucking deal. Well, the only big deal about fuel injection is consistent engine combustion over varied conditions and altitudes. Yep. That's about it. Can I program my carbs you ask? Yep. I can. It's called Jetting. I'm telling my carbs what I want fed to my motor. I don't need a fucking computer to tune my bike. Not a problem for me. For you, it may be though. I know what it takes to make power. Do you? Obviously not. It's comical when you little punk asses come out of the woodwork after reading the latest issue of atv action mag and crossing it with your own mental catastrophe you call a dream. And what you are now trying to make it out to be reality. Well, I have news for you. If you do spend time at Glamis, or any of the other places you listed, you would know what the fast bikes are. And the "dual nitrous" comment. Yep , and 'll bet you run "NOS" on your car. Do you even know what nitrous is? Dual nitrous. LMMFAO!!!!! Nawwwws. Bwahahahahaha Yep, just putting TWO tanks of Nitrous oxide on your shitbox cannondale mountain bicycle will net you at least a 200 HP gain. Man, set the pipe aside, and re-hash your nonsense. Or, go talk to Brian Spillner and/or Johnny Chang's gang. You obviously need to let yoru balls drop and stop watching so many friggin movies. You probably still "press on full gas" and "run 3 NOS's" on your rig(s). Stay in school. You obviously need it.....

You have an air leak. Either that, or a clogged jet. Are your slides in backwards? Pull the carbs and clean them thoroughly with solvent and compressed air.

Boring to those .040" over pistons was a mistake. Wasting a bore for nothing. Dammm. That may bite you in the long run..... Anyways, it sounds as though you're fine, but if you ordered .020" and they sent you .040" they may be the complete wrong piston? Meat nailed exactly what I was saying, and detailed it perfect. So, do your pistons sit .197" below the top of the cylinder or what? That would be fairly close to 3/16" and I wouldn't think that with that much squish that the motor would even start.....

Use all four springs, and look for some pipe hangers on ebay. I have no clue where your going with the 4 into 2 thingy there...

Don't listen to these fools. They know not of what they speak. The powerband is what makes your motor so powerful. I'll let you in on a little secret. The yellow powerbands are the ones to have. They are hard to find though, and expensive. But, you will smoke aything out there....

Never heard anything like that before. I have found that the stock heat range has always worked best for me. You definitely don't want to go hotter, but it is always a good idea to watch your plugs carefully. They are a good indicator of how things are running........ Hotter range plugs can lead to and/or provoke detonation and pre-ignition problems...

Send it to Holyman with $5 or $10 and I'm sure he would do it for ya...... PM him..

Wow. What's with the caps all of the sudden? I'm a redneck myself. Country is my favorite. But, I listen to everything. My pops got me into country since i was little. My gramps got me into Jazz a little. And everything else, came from my brother.

You don't need it unless you have a higher compression engine. It will be a waste of money. High octane fuel is designed to withstand high compression and not detonate, or pre-ignite.

Are you running some LR pistons on a non LR crank? LR=Long Rod. I don't know if Vito's makes power pistons in the LR configuration.

I hope my gasket never gets knackered....... And you need to search if you are loosing coolant or gear oil. Does the bike smoke bad? I don't quite understand where you are going with your post? You know you need new plugs, and you haven't replaced them? Why not? If you have a fouled plug, you won't get much air being pushed out of the pipe. That's what i think you mean by "compression". You may have just fouled the plugs.......

It sounds like a plugged pilot to me as well. Also, did you drill and tap the idle screws into the side of the carbs? if you did, be sure that you removed enough material from the side of the hole so that the screw can get down into the slide bore enough to contact the slide itself. You need to remove at least 1/8" of material to allow the proper clearance. Also, is the choke tube in place? If not, you are going to melt that right cylinder down in no time flat once you start riding it.....