boonman

Jetting needs to be richer for the cold weather. Also, check the reeds. They may be cracked...

I would try a banshee flywheel. Ebay has themm....

Are the other vent(s) clear? Sounds like the tranny case is getting pressurized.... Could be a leak from the case mating surfaces. But, it shouldn't pressurize that much.

Holy shit. I'll see what I can do here. Try and break it down a little, so to speak. I had been thinking that my Yamaha banshee was a little lean on the jetting, so I decided to richen it up a bit to alleviate the problem. I rode it after the alleged rejetting, and the yamaha banshee seemed to bog a little below half throttle. So, my friend, (Who claims to be a factory trained Cow a sucky Yamahush Banshee technician) decided that I should richen my jet needle to richen the midrange a tad. It seems to run great, and has power. But, I still think I may be lean. I do not know how this could be, even though I "richened" the needle (did you raise it or lower it???) and "richened" the main jet. I think that I may melt a piston down. (It would be very hard to melt the cylinder itself) and I am scared to really rev, (or wang Whatever the hell that means ) the bike through the upper RPM range. And the Banshee is fun, so I should do a plug check. {I can't really decipher that one} I will see what the plug check tells me, although I have no idea how to read a plug, so I will post a shitty picture on here, once I figure out how to post pics, so someone can tell me WTF is going on here. If someone could tell me how to add pics, that would be greatly appreciated. I see the "images" forum, but that surely can't be for pictures. It must be for posting ridiculously hard to read threads. Kind of like mine. I am a little worried about this. My friends want me to go illegally ride roads tomorrow, however, I don't want to blow my Yamaha banshee up because if I get caught illegally riding on the road, my parents wil be very angry with me. I will probably get put into jail. A 5th grader shouldn't be able to be put in prison, but I am 18 you know.... I guess I should stop being a pussy. Now, you tried to clear it up with this nonsense: Here we go again. I don't know if my engine is running lean or not, because I still have not checked out the Jetting FAQ page to tell me al about jetting. I am scared that I may blow my engine still. I rejetted the main jet 2 sizes richer. When I test rode the bike, my cow a sucky mechanic told me to put the jet needle 1 clip richer. (move the clip down) This helped ALOT. I don't know how this is. It was bogging below 1/2 throttle, and this fixed the problem, so that can't be right. It must be something else. I was thinking along the lines of my handlebars being in the wrong uncomfortable position? Here are my mods, and I won't post elevation because that is highly insignificant to jetting. Dynoport pipe, (I asume 2 into 1), Uni foam air filter, Stock airbox, (although we don't know whether the lid is on or off) Stock needle position, although I don't remember, but stock sounds good to me, 240 mains, 25 pilots, airscrew adjustment 1/2 turn out, Here are some pics of the plugs, although you won't be able to see them because I can't post pics. maybe someone could just IM me on AOL Instant Messenger at krh4312. I can direct connect with you and send you the pics that way. Someone please help me. Now, what is the elevation and air temperature that you are going to be riding in? There is a period button on the keyboard. www.websters.com is a site for a dictionary. Or, type your post in Microsoft Word, or an equivalent word processing program and use the spell checker. Then cut and paste it over here. Learn the correct sections on this site, and we will help you get your banshee running good. Provided you listen, and actually try some of the things that people may suggest. Not just say, well, "that won't work". "What should I do?"

Boon is now an OP in the room. And Boon never shuts the laptop down. Use IRC and chat away....

I used my snomoshee in alot of different snow conditions. They seem to change by the day. Packed snow worked the best, by far. I ran wit no lid, and in deep powder, I had sticking problems. When snow would pack around the carbs, it stuck. The skis were awesome. Paddles worked fantastic. But, in marginal snow conditions, you're definitely better off with tires in front. As mentioned by Spoin. Compared to a snowmobile, on a packed trail, a sled was no match. In a very long stretch, a sled would win. in deep powder, stay home, and let the sleds pack it down.

I run NAPA air filters.....

One problem. I don't like to set down the bong...

What about fatties in half shirts? Fatties that think they are the Shiz? And fatties in them spandex pants. They need to be stopped!!!!!!! Yea, I know your tits are HUGE. BUT, did you fail to notice that Fucking battleship you call an ass and that Exxon Valdez sized tanker for a gut that came along with it?

Tire out of balance....???

I see what you're saying. I wonder, I have a flywheel that I frigged up. If I can get the magnets out of it, I may try to make my own..... I'll check into it.

We were gettin' all "licquored up"

Yes Holyman, But, what is forgotten, or rather not mentioned in that paragraph from the link is that on a banshee, (or any twin cylinder two stroke) is that when one cylinder is compressing, the other one is just coming off it's power stroke. So, one cylinder lights off, and as it's coming down, the other cylinder is coming up in it's compression stroke. You don't need a large flywheel. Banshee's do not run at a constant RPM like a generator does. Generator's need a constant power output. So, when there is a draw, the RPM would want to drop momentarily, untill the throttle system can be activated, to provide more fuel. There is a slight delay there, and that is where the flywheel takes over. If you wanted to run your Banshee at a constant RPM, this wouldn't be a problem. However, RPM's vary greatly when riding. WHich is why the lightened flywheel works so damned well. Alot of people get caught up on cross referencing other engines and what not. Which is true for some things. Like a generator. Or a 4 stroke engine. Or something that needs a constant power output. I have designed and built large gang rip saws, wood hogs, and other machines that need the rotational mass of a flywheel to keep running when there is extreme momentary loads. BUT, the blades need to be at a constant RPM. A banshee motor, needs to vary RPM. It's just the way it is. And like Ron said, noone that has TRIED a lightened flywheel has ever gone back. The benefits outweigh the negatives. Probably because there are no negatives. And checkster brings up the other fallacy about the bike coming "off the pipe" quicker. Any time you let off the throttle, the bike isn't being fed any fuel. You will be off the pipe. And utilizing engine braking. Alrady been gone over in detail in another post. id on't have the link. It's title "engine braking". Anyways, the other argument for this, is that when your riding, you nail it, and peeps think that it is going to fall out the powerband or something because the flywheel is lightened. NOT TRUE. The bike will build revs quicker, and be LESS PRONE to come off the pipe. I have tested it. Same place on the track, with a normal flywheel, and lightened one. Lightened one always worked better. There are no negatives to it. Only theoretical nonsense that individuals that have not actually USED one try to come up with. Try one. You will want it. It makes the bike easier to ride. Revs come on faster, easier. Power is immediate, throttle response is MUCH better. How can it be bad? And yes, flywheel weight off the outer diameter keeps the shaft turning. Not in the center. You can have very heavy center, and nothing on the O.D. This won't do a whole hell of alot. you need the weight on the outside. Getting a heavy flywheel started, or changing speeds of the shaft with a heavy flywheel takes alot of power. This robs total output power. Now, if a heavy flywheel on a motor, makes that motor hard to start, how can it be beneficial to a motor that varies RPM's from 2K-10K??? It will take that much more engine power to rev it up, and the flywheel will want to keep the motor spinning at the same RPM. Now, a car engine needs a flywheel not because of rotational mass that is needed, but because it needs to absorb the vibrations of the engine itself. This comes in the form of a damper. The flywheel on an engine is actually very light, and almost flimsy. Unless you have a manual tranny, and then it is a little heavier.

What kind of oil do you run? It soundsl ike the oil is sitting in the bottom of the tank. Making a rich mixture........

Tug Hill is the only place I know of in NYS that allows ATV's in the summer. However, it is not a State maintained trail system. There are NO state maintaines trails. Now, get this, half of your registration fee goes to a "trail fund". Well shitheads, Where in the f*ck is my trails? I pay every year for them. And the # of registered ATV's has fucking doubled in the last year. SO, tell me ass holes, where in the f*ck does my money go if there are no trails for the trail fund to maintain? And another thing, when I tried to ride my snomoshee here near Buffalo, I was told by the Sheriff's that I couldn't ride, because it wasn't a registered snowmobile. f*ck YOU. I have owned snowmobiles since I could afford to own one. I have paid my registrations, kept the fucking insurance on them, and wass not legally able to ride because the trail clubs couldn't get insurance? How many fucking people need to have insurance so they can ride? And why in the f*ck can't I ride my ATV on the snowmobile trails if it has skis, and does LESS damage than a sled on the trail? Tested and tried. Let the president of the snowmobile club ride it. He told me to go ahead. f*ck the shit. This fucking state is pathetic. And the fucking toll booths. f*ck YOU. Dammit. Now I am pissed for the day.....

LMMFAO!!!!!!

I was in. I will have to wait for RZ to get back in. Oh well. I remember trying to get Meat in there awhile ago. I don't knw WTF is up with his computer. I always used MiRC, and never had a problem. The wierd thing is, when I try to click links to chats, they NEVER work. I don;'t know why. I click Rod's link, it don't work. Red X boxes and shit. BUT, I can get in through MiRC.

Theoretically, it should be slightly more prone to stalling. Realistically, NO. Your engine will build revs ALOT quicker. It will be easier to ride. Don't forget, that on the compression stroke of one cylinder, there is a power stroke on the other cylinder. So, there isn't a loss of power, such as would be the case with a 4 stroke bike. I have tested bikes with lightened flywheel, and then switched to lightened one. EVERYONE that has ridden a bike with a lightened flywheel, has liked it. I have not heard of one person that has tried it, I mean has actually tried it, not theoretically, hypothetically, or whatever thought they have imbedded in their brain tried it, but actually ridden a bike with one on it.

This my friend, is your first mistake. Do not take your shee to a local shop. Unless PassionRE is local, or GRR or Patriot? Anyways, 380 is wayyyyyyyyy rich. In the winter, 10 degrees out, Fatties, open lid, I was on 320 or 330 mains. Take that thing down a few notches. There is now way you need that much fuel. Unless your elevation is at negative 2,000 (-2000') feet. Even then, you may not need that much. What do the plugs look like?

You are correct on that Rod. I just assembled my Accel wires for my S-10, and that was the spec. Pretty much any spark plug wire is that. Unless it is some special business.

Indeed. It is a good idea. 28mm's can be had for around $200. The choice is yours. But, if you're riding trails and what not, bored stockers are the way to go...

Not sure about the resistance of the caps. I do know that they are fairly cheap. I bought NGK loaded caps from the stealer, I think they were about $5 a piece.

And here is your flywheel!!! And one of it on the lathe.... They will be back out to you today my man!!!!

Nope. You need to get the roller from AMPresearch. I got a new one for mine, actually both of them for free. I called and told them that I just bought it, and they wore out prematurely. They sent me new rollers with bearings free of charge. They even picked up the shipping. Harry Leitner is the guy I spoke to.

Yes. After installing the crank, you will need machine work to compensate for the added stroke on either side of the cylinder. (top and bottom) The top neds to raise the domes 2mm, and the bottom, you will have to port it to get it correct. Yes, most shops will cut the cost down considerably to match everything. However, I would get it ported for your riding. You will like it better in the end.,.. The TZ bearing is a very good idea, for reliability purposes. It is a much better unit. The bearing is another excellent mod. (for the clutch). If you have ever heard of anyone welding the clutch ball to the rod, it is not a fun thing to have happen. it's only $40, and I would do it. On the tranny thing. I wouldn't be machining any splines off of anything. Splines are what hold the gears on the shaft and do not alow them to rotate. If you machine them off, than you will likely strip either the gear or the shaft. Not a good thing. I can't imagine why you would want to do that. And what is this Honda tranny thing? DOn't know where you're going with that one either? I do believe that you meant that you want to machine the engagement dogs off of the gears themselves. Yes, that is a good mod. Makes shifting a fun thing. And missed gears go out the window.... You can upgrade the port work, prettty much anytime you want. Splitting the case open isn't a hard thing to do. I don't know why peeps dread it soo much. If you can afford the stroker, do it.