boonman

SOunds to me like the shifter shaft is out of adjustment. The Clymer manual explains the procedure to rectify this in detail. you will need one anyways, so i highly suggest buying one. And don't double post......

Holy mother of the Good Christ. I can't believe I have to do this again. Here we go mr. BansheeSr. Perhaps if you didn't ask such fuckin ridiculous questions relating to bull shit they might get answered. you are like a broken record so far here. You have got to be kidding? At least I hope so..... What in the hell kind of question is that? It has been gone over here numerous times. Now, what conditions we talking? What mods are on each bike? What is the weather? What terrain? There are so many variables. Rider, to many to list. That is not a goood question. Speculate as you may. Oh boy........ Man, you have only $3,000 to spend, and you want to ship a bike to England? WOW!!!! You are a glutton for punishment..... Have you tried to look locally? it would be far cheaper..... But, if you want, I'll sell you my bike for $4500 and I'll ship it to England. You will pay shipping? That's the way to get things answered. Yep, you thought BDBanshee was a pro. Well, I'm here to tell you that he is a friggin pro. YOU on the otherhand need not go around forums insulting people with your lack of respect and intelligence. you must be from France....... There are already a few replies in that thread, go loook. It apears from your post that you already know what you are looking for. A "standard banshee" So, go find one in your price range, and buy it. What more do you want to know? And how many more times are you going to ask this? Well, which one is it slap nutz?? A 450 or a banshee? Now we have become totally confused. Have you ever ridden a performance ATV before? And how much are you gonna pay? Well, I would think you shouldn't pay any more than $1,000 for one. That way, it will already be totaled and un-rideable which would be perfect for you.... Nothing wrong with that one, somehow, I just can't believe it. MAN OH MAN, how many times do we really need to ask. Just buy a fucking bike and ride the biotch. Now we're back to a banshee again. I thought we wanted a 450? Wait a minute, now it's a shee. I don't know....... What do you consider newish? There aren't very many overseas riders that post here.... Have you even looked around your area? annd for the same money, it is not likely that you will find a non stolen, running 450. Are you serious? Now your brother wants a bike too? Man, your brother, your "mate" and you want a bike. Wow. Have ANY of y'all ridden one before? He should pay about $7,000. You are cracking my shit up!!!! No kidding. Your a newbie? Wow, could have fooled me..... Well, the streets and the field are worlds apart in handling. What do you want to do to the bike? We can't answer your vague, ridiculous questions. I want to modify it doesn't quite cut it when you are talking about a banshee. The sky is the friggin limit. There is a ton of aftermarket parts out there. However, it is retardedly expensive to get shit shipped overseas. And there you have it folks. All 13 of this individuals posts. And here is your answer BansheeSr. BUY A BLASTER.

Awwwww.... Things like this bring a special feeling to me. Makes me feel all warm and fuzzy!.... Good to hear your happy man!!! And like Stan, I want a ride report. Everytime I hear about one of Jim's motors, I start drooling. I am gonna sit down and do my taxes tonight!!!! Between me and the wife, we ought to be able to scrape up enough $$ so I can get my shiznit out to Jim so he can put me on the list!!! I can't wait to be rippin' it up!!! I may even be on alcohol for Coalfest. That could be scary........ alcohol in a stock chassis..... Yeeeehawwwww!!!

There isn't all that much weight difference from a 700 to a 440. Now, for the reason that a sno-pro rides like it did for you. A sno-pro sled is set up for sno-cross. It is a design specific sled. The chassis is designed to handle the rigors of sno-cross. Which means banked turns, and wicked jumps. On a trail, you don't find these things the majority of the time....... That is why a properly set up trail sled will whoop all over a sno-pro sled any day of the week in the trails. On the track, it's a different story. (Oddly enough.... ) Go see for yourself. it's a completely different animal. I would love to have a sno pro myself. (not of the arctic Cat brand, but a sno-x sled nonetheless) but I don't race sno-x. So, I don't need one. There are far better options out there for a trail machine. Now, I am pretty sure that ayone who does own a sno-pro is gonna jump in here and flame away. But, you can't argue the facts. Things are designed for a specific purpose. Sno-pro is a race sled. Ride it in the trails all you want. But, remember, there are better options out there for the trial machine..... That is however, that I am assuming that you are riding these machines in the trails...... if not, My bad.....

Lol!! I did do the work. The way I was lightening them, it didn't matter if the center hub was out. I was chucking them up on the outside. I noticed it on the last cut, and further looked into things and saw the marks. So I finally made the shaft that I had been putting off doing so I could check the runout. After dialing in the taper, I mounted up the flywheel. Needless to say, it is off about .150" axially. This thing is like a hand grenade. And Scott is spot on, I'm not on here to screw anyone, and I HOPE that noone else is either. I have heard of a few instances, and it pisses me off!!! but as soon as you get this baby going, I KNOW that you will be happy. Combined with Jim's porting, your bike will flat out rip!!!!!!!

I run the 200W unit. I am using 2 Hella 500 series 55W lights. Lights up like friggin daytime..... I love it!!

Once that bike warms up, take a compression check... You also need to look very closely at the plugs, and look for aluminum flakes or specs on them. Now, you say that the problem becomes apparent when the bike warms up. Is this because you don't start gettin into it untill it is warm? And you also mention that the bike does this . Does this mean that the bike is in neutral? And you are just free revving? How are the reads? My guess is that it is overheating as well. You mention that it has to sit for awhile before it will run good again? Electronics usually take longer than 15 minutes to cool off if they exhibit a heat related problem.... How do you know that it isn't overheating? Do you have a temp guage?

I think one post would be sufficient on this topic....

Loose spark plugs is a sign of detonation. Contrary to common beliefe and theory. On the coolant thing, you may be overheating, possibly due to lean jetting? Possibly due to something else? Do you have a temp guage? You could try moving the coolant resorvoir to the front and see what happens. i did, and haven't lost a drop of coolant yet....

Could be alot of things. Bent shift fork, worn out shift drum, improperly adjusted shift lever..... process of elimination......

Meat, I don't doubt it. Trouble at the moment is I have alot of shizzle going on. but, by that time, with the proper planning, and with an amusement park nearby, this could be a go!!!! I would be willing to take a Friday off of work, and come on down on Thurs. night. Got to the amusement park on Friday with the family and what not, and then ride!!!! Maybe by then, I'll have me a little wheeler for the kid. We'll see. either way, I DESPERATELY want to ride there!!!!!!!! By that time, I may however be running alcohol.... SHouldn't be a problem, I have a 5.5 gallon IMS on it.... Maybe Rod could meet me at my house and we could all caravan it down there..... We'll see. It's about an 8 hour ride.... And if I make a wrong turn again, (don't ask.....) it takes about 12 hours in the big Dodge..... As of now, count me in... Winter will be over, and so will ski season. Next week, I leave for Lake George for a skiing exam. (Gore mountain). WHich is one of the reason's for me not making Roostfest. This should be a go for sure....

315/85R15 is a 36-12.5 tire. Not a 14.5 width. I would say it's probably closer to a 35" tire than anything. Now, you need to decide what you want to do with the truck. DO you do alot of off-roading? Mud? sand, desert, drier trail running? Or mostly pavement? If you want a mud tire, look no further than a Swamper. Unparalleled in the sloppiness. Wins hands down. Every time. I would recommend either an SSR radial tire, or like mentioned before, a TSL radial. You will get good mileage out of them without a doubt. Now, On my S-10 blazers, (both of them) I run SX swampers. They aren't quite a radial, but they aren't a bias either. Like a half breed of both. They have ben wearing like Iron. One set has about 30K on them(30-11.5-15). And the other set has about 40K(32-11.5-15). Still going strong. if you want a compareable tire to your Buckshots, get a Wild Country RVT tire. Widely available, and they are awesome on the pavement, superb wear, and give traction compareable, if not better than your old Buckshots. Your at the crossroads here. IMHO, any tire measure in a metric fashion isn't worth a piss in the mud. But, here in NY, we have sloppy messes of trails. And deep holes. I don't know what you drive on. Or what your looking for. These may help you out though.

Man, if yer ass looked like that,...... j/k lmmfao!!!

Are you kidding me?

For what you pay in gas a week? On 2 miles a day? I drive well over 500 miles a week to and from work. And nothing I drive gets even 10 MPG. My Dodge gets around 8, and my S-10 tahoe gets about 9. The other one was right around 9. Looks like a nice rig, but I need me a crew cab diesel.... Family truckster...

The pipes will fit your '99. They are considered to be close to a fatty pipe performance wise. The fatties are going to edge it out, but the gold series are not a bad pipe.

Can't be the problem. 28mm carbs=no TORS. And the bike wouldn't rev up too much. Tats, do you have the slides in the correct way? I know on the stockers, they can be put in backwards. Don't know about 28's though. Just a thought. Is there a slide stuck? Have you cleaned the carbs thoroughly? is the pilot clogged? Air leak is also on my brainstorm. That would explain uncontrolled revving. When it revs, if you pop the choke, does it bog it out? Are you positive there is fuel in the bowl? If everythihgn is the same except the carbs and pipes, I am leaning towards the carbs. Did you change intakes? Or just stretch the stockers..... ?? Could have ripped one of the intake boots? Is the balance tube in place and tight if your on the stock intakes? They are cheap, and worth it to eliminate a possible faulty one. An air leak will destroy that thing quick. I don't know much on 28mm jetting specs..... But these are the things I would start out with....

lmmfao!!! I ran in to a similar problem last year. I set up the snomoshee. After testing it, I discovered that it actually tore up the trail ALOT less than a sled. On a WOT take off, I left virtually no trench, and it is so light that it just floats wherever it goes... ANyways, When Iw as testing, I was on a section of the sled trail owned by a friend and co-worker of mine.. EVERY sled that passed me, looked at me like they were gonna tear me a new one. One individual actually stopped, and I gave him a new one. I ride both sides of the fence here. I ride sled in the winter as well. I don't have all the "fairy gear'. And that one made me laugh more than anything. My gear consists of my ATV pants, and a jacket circa 1971. No shit. Anyways, I don't know the REAL circimstances surrounding this incident, but I do know that club sponsored trails usually do not allow wheeled vehicles on their trails.... The landowners prefer it this way. and the sledders really take it to heart.....

Just to clear a thing or two up here because I have received numerous PM's about this issue. It was NOT because of anything that I did to the flywheel that made this problem. A 3-jaw puller was used on the flywheel, and in turn bent it. So, the flywheel is junk, and needs to be replaced. I informed Scott of this and that I could not guarantee my work. While the flywheel would work, vibration would be a problem, as would premature crank failure. Once again, it was due to no fault of my own. When you pull your flywheel off, it is necessary that you use the proper tool to do it. there is a reason for it. And this is precisely why.

If you are not riding at WOT continuously, you may be able to catch it before it goes caput. THis will take careful monitoring. I would think a plug check would be in order before you start ripping around... I let mine warm up to about 120 before I ride. Remember that you are reading coolant temp. It will be delayed than what is actually seen inside the chamber.

It happens after a little wear sets in.... I wouldn't worry about it.... Mine does the same thing..

I plugged mine. I made aluminum plugs. Worked like a champ. Runs excellent. I wouldn't go back...... Try it and see for yourself, (Which it sounds like you may do)

Where's the selection for "all of the above"? I ride them all..

That is next on my list!! I am sick of flipping jaws around all the time!!

This is nutty. I flat out REFUSE to believe that you ran a factory yamaha head machined .090" of the gasket surface, and ran it with no problems. It just simply is not possible. And CC'ing a head, doesn't really tell you a whole helluvalot about how much compression you will get. It's all about the squish and how it ws designed. If you were/are runnign a 24cc dome and at 180, I am thinking it is a custom cut chamber and not an off the shelf item.