boonman

LMMFAO!!!!!

I hear ya bro!!! I'm friggin married, and my wife don't even have an engagement ring. Although, she is the one who asked me, so i guess I am off the hook for at least a little while longer......

Yep. The front number plate. lmmfao!!! I got to the drags and realized I didn't have my number plate on the front!!! Oh well. It worked... lol

You most certainly did NOT run a stock chambered head that was .090" shaved down with stock crowned pistons and stock base gaskets. I could see if you double base gasketed it or something like that. But just pulling off the head, and shaving it .090", and putting it back on, you would have caused catastrophic engine failure. Without a doubt. No way in la-la land or wherever you spend your days did you run that head..... Maybe you dreamed this up when you were in the lovely confines of the "I love me" jacket?? How many stock heads have yo looked at? You are spewing bull shit out of your sewer at this present time....

However Holyman, you are overlooking the fact that the clutch basket does not turn at nearly the same speed as the crank. It is not a 1:1 ratio. I understand what you are driving at here, that it will run longer and what not the faster it spins. And yes, it will. BUT, this only happens when the power is taken out of the equation. With a banshee, you get a power stroke every 180 degreees of crankshaft rotation. So, a heavy flywheel is not needed. THe clutch basket and crank shaft do not turn at the same RPM. There are gear and chain driven counterbalancers, but the shee does not utilize them...

Just to stick my $.02 in here. I run almost the exact same setup on my bike. Fatties, open lid. Stock porting. Now, I run 310 mains in the summer. I am on 27.5 pilots. but, I like a little leaner pilot. I have heard of people running a 30. I would get a 27.5 pilot, and some 310 and 300 mains. Start with the 310's, or even 320's and see what it does. What is your elevation. Mine is 800'. You are lean. If you don't change, sever engine damage will result...

You can expect to see a 5-6 HP increase.

Bam!!!!!!!!!

I take it you have never had an airleak aussie? Man. I myself would never be willing to take that chance again.......

I think quadingislife may have stolen your fruity shit.....

I just heard about that last night. I friggin knew there was somethin' up with it. Now everyone has Janet on the mind. I guess she isn't as stupid as her brother..

Congrats meat!!!!! I didn't think ya had it in ya!!! Anyways, sorry noone was in there. Well, I was, but I wasn't. if you know what I mean. Mabe one of these days, I'll pony up and get me a computer of my very own....

This is the time when you ned to make a serious judgement call. What do you want to do with this truck? I assume you want to wheel it because you mentioned cutting the fenders. However, this all demends. You aren't gonna clear stock sheet metal without at least 10" in that truck. It's just a chevy thing. That's the way it is. Well, pretty much any IFS suspended truck nowadays. You could go with a whiplash suspension. Do you want to go custom? IMHO, the only way to lift a Chevy 4WD is by swapping a Dana 60 in the front, and a 14 bolt in the rear. You could get away pounding the pavement on your stock shit, but don't be going across the lawn unless you plan on replacing stuff. Now, do not "crank" the torsion bars. THat is not a good thing. It upsets soo many things on your truck, and you will have accelerated wear of EVERYTHING in the front end. Including your brand new 38" rubber. Now, also, how wide of a tire do you want to run? THis all plays a factor. The wider the tire, the wider the rim. The wider the whole setup, the higher you must go. With 6" and a body lift, 36" rubber looks really good, and has minimal contact on the fenders. I would run 35's on it though. Now, for the jump to 38" tires, I don't know what you want to run. The most popular 38" tire in a TSL is a 38.5-16 and that is a fairly wide tire. You will need 10" to clear that. Especially with IFS. If you go solid axle swap, there are kits available for them. But, make damned sure you line it up properly. if you don't, you might as well roll it off a cliff. It will be worthless. You will need a steering box, and some fabrication skills equivalent to Stan's photoshop skillz. On a serious note, this is a turning point for you, if you're serious, and you need to make the call. You need to decide on a tire, and then start thinking about what you want to do. With IFS, you can lift it, but you don't gain any suspension travel out of it. solid axle is a whole different animal. Think about it. And then think about it again.

Yep. 55 watters. I got the flood beam pattern. But, I would like ot get one driving pattern for the long beam. I mounted mine in the stock location. I used the Hella clamp, and just stuck the whole assembly in between the stock frame tabs, and ran the stock bolt through the whole assembly... Worked good...

Maybe YOU can plug your ass with a rubber donut there. However, my virgin ass could be plugged with a toothpick. LMMFAO!!! I'll take it to the trails..... I'll take it to wherever you want.....

Dammit. The one important factor I forgot to add!!!!!! Oh, and if the helmet has flames, than you can subtract at least 3-5 seconds from your lap times.......

I have Hella 500 lights. I also rn a RickyStator 200W unit. I love the setup. Lights cost me $50 for the pair.

Why bother? They are stupid cheap.....

SOunds like the carbs need a litle attention. Make sure the left carb has 2 brass tubes in it. What is the jetting. it could be lean on the pilot jet....

Yep, because it would be a long day of ass whoopin' for the EX crew.... I'd be more inclined to pack a rubber donut so you EX guys can sit after getting your ass ripped off by a shee....

If your TORS is not unplugged or removed, than your throttle didn't stick. The TORS is designed so that if you let off the throttle, and the slides do not return to idle position, than the ignition cuts out. Therefore making it impossible for a stuck throttle. Now, being you said that you hit some sort of snowbank, I am guessing it is fairly cold out. And perhaps the humidity was high. Stock banshee carbs stick in wet, cold conditions. Sorry to hear of your mishap, and I hope you make a full recovery. Strap your bucket on next time, and learn where the kill switch. Panic is NO excuse. That's why there is a kill switch located within fingers reach. Or, pull in the clutch. I'd take an overrev over bustin myself up. I've yanked my tether many a times in the past. You need to program yourself to use the kill switch when shit happens.

Comfort and the proper approval stickers. (Snell, DOT, and what not)

I liked the halftime show. Although I think janet has gotten a case of the tank ass. And along with it came some ta-tas. Exposing here hooo-hoooo like that, I am thinking that she wants to re-launch her career. What is kind of funny about the halftime show, was that all tthe songs that were played, were old. Watch, she will come out with an album soon....

Your local Yamaha dealer.... Give Jim a call at passion Racing Engines. His name on here is PassionRE. He will hok you up...

Not at all Holyman. You see, a flywheel is attached to the crank. The clutch assembly is not. A lockup clutch works in hill climbs because it provides no slip, which can cost time on the clock. You see, once the bike is in the powerband, and screamin, (like at WOT on a hillclimb) the flywheel becomes much less of a factor. That would be like saying that larger, heavier tires will make more power up the hill because of the rotational mass. BUT, all that mass takes power to move. Example here, the 44" tires on my truck are retardedly heavier than stock, and oddly enough, MUCH larger. SO, with the rotational mass theory, this should help things roll along at speed, once moving. But, it doesn't. Completely opposite is true. It take alot more power to turn the tires efficiently. Thus, it takes more power to turn all this rotational mass. Like has been discussed, a balanced system is the best... I still think the lightened flywheel (when weight is taken form the outside of the wheel) is one of the best throttle response, and quicker rev building mods that one can do... Especially for the $$ involved....