boonman

You should just adapt something from what is currently available. Otherwise, it will cost you a fortune.... To charge the battery, one needs a rectifier. The shee puts out AC voltage. The battery will require DC voltage.. I'll have to formulate it up and see what is required. Perhaps a parts list is in order here...

I believe the pivot works kit is like $45 or $50 for the bearings, outer seals, and the inner sleeve. The bolt, I'm not sure of. it will cost you some $$$. This is where preventative maintenance goes a long way. And it goes to show how it saves you money. A grease fitting would be sweet in there... Too get it out, get a bigger hammer. Seriously. A lot of persuasion may be in order....

all things left stock, a 450 will take the cake. A shee and a raptor are about dead even stock for stock. Pipes change everything. Traction limitations depict what you can do on the start. That's why we suggest shortening thew swingarm in the dirt. Works wonders. on the shifting, hold that thing Wide open, and shift as fast as you can. Not go through the gears all at once, but when you do make a gear change, do it quick. That's where a modded shift star will help you a bit, it will let you get to the next gear smoother.... Ridden properly, you shouldn't have a problem.,...

Well, as opposed to what, trying to hope that a guy thinks something I say is funny? I don't know about y'all over there, but where we come from, Women and Men get together. Not men and men. You probably listen to the Spice twits, or maybe even 98 men, men 2 men, 'n' men, you know, all those funny man banders. You must be, well, nevermind. I'll refrain from that comment.... And i'm not a f*ck wit. Far from there "mate". Go play with your Honda........

...Need to be shot and left to rot in the river. Led, have you seen the movie "Cabin Fever?"

Doesn't sound like a bad plan. Me, I'm working, waiting to leave, so I can go to the doctor's office... I hate doctors... I would like to ride the shee, but it is much too muddy outside....

Also, peeps this post, right in this very thread!!!!!!! Has the zip code, AND a link to the mapquest......

Dates can be found in THIS THREAD right here..... Try reading.... lol..

Those brake line clips you speak of don't have threads on them. They are closely similar, but basically slide onto the "ears" off the frame to keep the lines from moving in or out...

We use Servo brand power feeds for our mills, but that was not what i am speaking about. I was talking about servo motors themselves. I use alot of Parker Automation, Parker Daedal, Parker Hannifin, Parker anything really. www.parker.com . I design and build high speed automated production machinery. Mostly graphic printing machines. Silk screening, hot stamping, stuff like that.... PLC's, motion control shiz, touch panels, alot of different things. And when my PC crashed, I didn't have ANYTHING backed up. So, I had to start from scratch...... I had some pics in the images section awhile back for someone. Maybe you remember? I will look for it.... This particular machine has 7 axes of controlled motion, and produces 50 pieces per minute. So, all 7 axes move their respective moves, and return to home approx. once a second.... it's pretty neat to watch it all run after you're done!!!

Stickers won't stay ojn for long. IMS tanks breathe vapors out the side.....

A gel cell is a type of battery. Try to find a battery store. WE have them around here, they are simply called "battery". lol Anyways, a car performance shop should be able to make you up some headers. I'm not talkin about some retail outlet, you need to go to some place that actually works on things, not just sells parts... Expect to pay a pretty penny though. I am guessing that custom flanges and what not aren't going to be cheap. Take the stock headpipe with you. I bet they could use it....

I feel the response is crisper than with a balance tube or bottle in place. Your carbs have to be dead nuts on though.... I also like the clean look of it more now... I felt that a tube wasn't needed. However, Yamaha engineers felt one was. Although, this is the same people who invented the nightmare of the TORS, and a plastic water impellar. and a coolant rezzy that pisses on the pipes.... I don't know.. Response was better without any sort of balancing device.

Yup yup. ALWAYS start rich, and work from there. A fouled plug is ALOT better than a melted top end..... You ned to start at least at a 310 main. Main jets are cheap. You should buy 280-320. Thhat way, you will have an assortment on your hands, and you will be happy in the long run.....

I run a CR-lo bend Tag T2 bar, and I made my own bar clamp. I also made my own stem.... It's raised up perty high.... I am guesstimating about 3-4". I don't honestly remember. But I love the bars!!!

Sainty builds pipes. I forget who else does. SOme of the builders may know... If you are talking about getting an exhaust for the F4, why not just cut and re-route the stock F4 exhaust. 4-stroke exhaust isn't as critical as 2-stroke by a long shot.. As for the battery, I would suggest hanging it off the rear subframe, or up in front where people mount their coolant resorvoir. I like the rear location. A sealed gel cell would be best suited for it. No mess. And relatively cheap...

I'd say about $25 in good shape....

When you are moving, don't pull the clutch in for long periods of time..... That is what welds them up. Sitting still with the clutch in is alright, but when you are let's say rolling down a hill and you pull the clutch in, and hold it in, you just screwed up and welded them..... that's a no-no

You may not be able to drill it yourself unless you are really skillled at doing it. You will need a center drill. You will also need some really good HSS drills. And then you will have to heat up the case. A hot wrench wworks for this. (oxy-acetylene torches). Heat does wonders...... Drill it out, heat it up, and stick an ez-out in there and give it a whirl. Or, take them to a machine shop...

I run a PRM baja bumper. Works friggin sweet. Aproach angle is good. if you nose into something, it will slide, and let you pull it out. Usually... It was $50 off ebay NIB.

They are plastic clips I call them. They clip onto plastic to give threads. They could be from the tank wrap, or the radiator shroud. There isn't too many of those on the shee.... if you have two of those, you should also have two bolts as well...

I hate Durabends. I bought a Lonestar, and haven't had a problem since.....

The thumb throttle cable is much shorter than the twist cable.

I used to have some stuff saved on my computer. But it crashed, and I lost it. You need a rectifier, and some other things in order to change the shee's AC current to DC current for the battery. You can get a battery eliminator kit, which willl suffice for the RZ swap....

The water pump cover is plastic. DOn't get too crazy with the buffer.....