boonman

You need a BFH. (Big Fuckin' Hammer). Actually, you need a bigger hammer. Also, try tipping the bike on it's side, so you can really get some good swings on it with an 8 lb. or so sledge... Get pissed at it, and give it hell. Try to get an impact on the other side, and get it tto turn. (spin) It will still be frozen to the sleeve, but you should be able to get it out....

Maybe for the driveway... 287087[/snapback] wait .... what did you recommend oh ya the wild country ....ha 287188[/snapback] Are you kidding me? You ever run Wild country's? The radial RVT's that I recommended? I will put those tires up against any BFG made, except a KO. This gentleman was inquiring about a tire with good road manners, good treadwear, and just a general all around goot tire. BFG's are not that. They have sucked in every situation imaginable. Aside from the KO series. They are good. Go throw a set of BFG's on your rig, drive it for 50,000 miles, and see what kind of steel belts you wil be riding on at the end of their life. Because that is all that wil be left. And yet, a set of Wild Country's will still be purring down the highway. And still be getting better traction. In anythying you're in...... Have it your way. Everyone has their own personal preferance. But a blanket statement like "BFG is the best tire there is " is just assinine without knowing what the driver needs and expects for his ride. For a jeep, BFg's may be alright. For a full size truck, I would look elsewhere. I have pulled alot of people out of holes that otherwise thought they were prepared with their shit. Most of them run BFG's. And all we have here in NY is mud. You wanna talk off road performance? Or on road? Sand? Anywhere.... I can tell you this, if there is ever a vehicle in my yard that I own, and it has BFG's on it, it would only be for a joke. Because after that, I would surely be stuck in my yard. BFG's are for Moab.

Bottom line, if you run anything than 2 35 watt bulbs on a stock stator, you will burn it up....... It may take a couple rides, but the lighting coil will melt. It just can't handle it. Contrary to popular belief....

I don't think I have a choice..... Moved to the Roostin' forum..... I REFUSE to lock such a comical thread... But I will move it.... piss away. And BTW, I can piss farther!!

Maybe for the driveway...

Get on down to the hardware store. Pick up some snap ring pliers. a universal set will do you just fine. Should be about $20. Last ya forever. You NEED them to take it apart without mangling everything up. In SRedish's pic, everything is taken apart that needs to be taken apart. Now, with the swingarm on the machine, (you do have the swingarm mounted, right? because if you don't, go do that first. It will all be much easier with the swinger on the bike....) you take the carrier, (unassembled, as it is in the pic) and slide it into the swingarm's housing. The left side of the carier in the pic is the chain side. The right side, is the brake side. The brake side goes in first, and you start at the chain side. Once the carrier goes all the way through the housing, you wll slide the caliper bracket over the carrier where is protrudes out of the housing. Then, you will see the groove in the carrier for the snap ring. Put the snap ring on. Now, you will be ready for the axle.

Not a problem guys. (on the 1500HD's) I am not a big fan of Chevy though. My brother just bought a new 2500 HD, and in less than 1,000 miles of back and forth to work driving, the front differential AND the transmisison grenaded. Oh well. There is a bad apple in every lot I guess.... (with respect to his truck.,...) Anyways, I see more and more 1/2 tons out there doing the work of the heavier trucks. Which is alright. Pushing something is the way it was meant to be done!! And hauling your trailers you mentioned isn't going to be a problem. Even with a 6 ply tire. I would go 8 though. Just to be safe in case things heat up a little on a long haul. Myself, I have to worry about GVWR and GCWR and what not. I haul some heavy loads. I should have a 450 dually. But that is too much for daily driving.... I didn't mean to sound condescending, and after re-reading my original post, I se that's how it was interpreted... I was mainly playin around a little. I mean, who am I to talk? I stuffed a 400 horse small block in my S-10 Blazer. I hauled a 20' enclosed trailer with it. Sucked because I couldn't see ANYTHING behind me. And I was really overweight. And when I got stopped, I realized only then what laws I Was breaking..... Sure, the rig could pull it fine. but it was very unsafe. At any rate, with no lift at all, but the torsion bar "tuning" you did, you ought to be able to squeak some 33" meats under there with some minor trimming on the front valance. In that regard, I would HIGHLY recommend some Wild country Radial RVT's. Really luggy tread, and excellent road manners. I ran a set of 33's on my Dodge for 2 years. I still have them. lol. they are 16.5" rim though. Cheap tire. 8 ply steel radial. Can't beat them. I would have a set of them on my truck now, but they don't make them in anything larger than a 33" tire.... On the Dakota, (2WD) you will fit 31" rubber on there with a body lift. I have done 2 of them. Be careful if you want rims though. Don't space them out at all. They will rub. Body lifts are cheap. And on that truck, it is easy. Hardest thing was putting the steering shaft spacer in. Other than that, it was a breeze.

Holy shit people. This thing may have to get carried over to the Roostin' section if things get carried away. Man, what a pissin contest... BTW, In my humble opinion, any woman/female/girl that slings a leg over a bike, let alone a banshee, has got a from me..... And to be good looking on top of it, well,

Screw BFG's. They are worthless. Too soft. Too much $$. You have any lift? I am assuming you have a 2500 or above HD. I have seen some of the 1500HD's, but I can't for the life of me figure out WTF them things are, and who in their right mind would wanna buy one.... Anyways, you want a good 10 ply if you are towing any kind of load. You could get by with an 8 ply if your GVW is below 10,000 #'s. In that case, I highly suggest Wild Country tires. Stupid cheap. Great ride. 8 ply steel belted radial. Good grip off road, and good performance on road. If you can afford it, you may want to look into some Parnelli Jones' Dirt Grips. PHENOMINAL tire. Exceptional in everything I have seen them run in. Driven a few trucks with them. I am currently running Yokahama Geolander tires. Great ride, EXCELLENT traction on and off the road. Snow, and everything. Only problem is, that they are 6 ply. But, the price was right. ($250 for all 4. 35x12.5 too!!) and I don't haul alot of weight in the winter so they will do just fine for plowing, and general winter use for me. If you aren't hauling any heavy equipment trailers, (like anything over 7,000#'s) than a 6 ply tire will be fine. Anytyhing over, and you will want an 8 ply or better.....

Precisely!!!!! I'm excited someone "got it" after my ramblings...... Maybe I'm in the wrong profession. Perhaps I should be a teacher.... Then again, maybe not....

Be very careful you don't go with too tight a torque on them spring bolts. if you snap them studs off the hub, you will be really really pissed...

Sounds like it's lean. Revving, and no power indicates that. If you have an airbox, try throwing the lid on it. If not, jet richer by one or two sizes. What do the plugs look like? Also, clean the carbs thoroughly...

Is this a round carrier? If so, than yes, the brake plate is what holds the carrier in the housing. And I can't see any amount of elbow grease tweaking the housing enough to slide the carrier through with the plate still attached??

Alright, in a double shear design, there is a mount on either side of the joint itself. (when talking about a rod end, or commonly referred to as a heim joint) I need to get a couple pics to better explain this. Shit, think of a leaf spring on a vehicle. The pivot bolts on a leaf spring on a vehicle are mounted in a double shear fashion. Basically, that bolt would have to break in 2 places for the moveable joint to "seperate". Take away one side of the mount in that equation, and you would have a single shear. In which if the bolt breaks in one spot, the pieces will seperate. If you can follow that... Think of your swingarm on your shee. The long bolt that goes through it. That is a double shear. It would need to break, theoretically in 2 places, (on either side of the swingarm) for the arm to completely and immediately come away from the bike. I'm not talking about the bolt breaking, and working loose, and fallingout, and all that. Think immediately. Within fractions of a second. Now, would it be practical in that application to mount that in a single shear fashion in which you remove one mount off the frame and bolt the swinger on? Nope. Because it just can't handle the load. Too much force. Even if the frame would handle it, (without twisting) there would be alot of force on the bolt..... It would break. BUT, it doesn't break in it's current "double shear" configuration. With front ends, there essentially is kind of a double shear mount. Because you have the upper and lower pivots on the knuckle. Kind of. In a really basic kind of sense. I know someone is gonna try to rip that one to shreds... Anyways, I'm not speaking about the upper and lower joints independantly, I am speaking of the knuckle unit as a whole..... Likely, you will find that your shit, whichever route you choose, (rod end or ball joint) will fail eventually. Now, greasable ball joints, will probably be the most cost effective. Teflon lined high angle rod ends would be superb. I ran teflon lined rod ends on my pickup. In a complete four link setup. Located both front and rear axles. I never had an ounce of play in them. They never squeaked. Never a hint of trouble. They were rather pricey. They were also not high angle. But, that truck saw it's fair share of beatings. And the rear axle was mounted in a single shear fashion at the rear axle. Never had a problem..... So, take it for what it's worth. On the front end of your bike, you aren't going to be adding material to the knuckle for a double shear mount. Also, on rod ends, you will likely have to drill out the taper for a bolt to go through..... Not too bad. I did that to my tie rod mounts...... I also made my own steering stem.... And, well, nevermind.....

I still don't know why he had to do all them mods to get 120 out of his bike. Even wearing a kilt? I mean, my bike rips. And it's all stock...

You should have your flywheel lightened by someone who knows what they are doing. Either BDBanshee or myself can assist you in this. Not that it is an exact science, but it definitely needs to be done right..... Tolerance within .0005" should be expected....

What is the Outside Diameter of the piston?

You likely aren't going to be able to move the shift drum with your hand. I a m thinking that you don't have the shifter adjusted properly. This procedure is outlined in the clymer repair manual. If you don't have one, you need one. Your kickstart isn't moving because the bike is in gear, and you can't kick the engine and the bike over.... It may have lurched forward due to a dry clutch.... How long was the tranny together before you rode the bike.... I know that after my bike sits for a bit, the first time you take off, the clutch is real grabby.....

We're not going to be mounting a heim in double shear on anyting on a Banshee. You can get a teflon lined Rod end (Heim joint) to last just as long as a Ball joint. However, on the end of an A-Arm, you must use what is called a "high angle" rod end. Otherwise, the rod end will bind when the suspension cycles. This could be changed by re-designing the outer knuckle, and rotating the rod end 90 degres. But now, we have alot of side loads that will rear their ugly heads.... IMHO, it's 6 1/2 dozen to the other......

Fatties are an excellent pipe. One that does anything you ask of it. They provide great low end, and still don't sign off early like others. Another great mid range pipe to look at would be the Paul Turner Mids. Sweet pipe. On the airbox, I would NOT get the K&N lid. I would rather go with a Pro-Flow plate, and get a clamp on filter. Either a UNI -My filter of personal choice), or a K&N. That way, you can run with or without the lid..... I have run a lightened flywheel, and a stock flywheel in both MX and CC/XC racing. I love it. The throttle response is superb. I guess it's all in how you want to ride. BUT, I Have found that the "naysayers" on a lightened flywheel are those that have never tried one. Get ya some pipes, after you mod the airbox. The airbox should be the first mod.

I am still waiting to save up enough $$$ to get the frame and pump for my truck. Bought a new truck, and need a new mount. One of these days. But it hasn't snowed here yet.

Last I checked, Sno-Traxx hadn't made anything for like a few years. I made some skis for my bike from some Ski-Doo MXZ spindle, welded onto a set of Banshee spindles I got off Ebay. Worked like a charm .

Good job!!