boonman

I have an IMS oversize tank. It holds 6 gallons of fuel. I like it alot, and I had to cut my plastics. It doesn't look like factory, but I don't care, because the factory tank is a teaser in the fuel resorvoir department.

You must have had some serious runout for that flywheel to be off in weight like that. Anyways, Ricky flywheels are not nearly as good of quality as a stocker. Dimensions are different as well. I have the dimensions, but I don't have tem with me now. They are at home in my notebook.

The added cooling benefits are like pissing in the wind. Getting a coolhead and thinking it's going to solve your cooling problems would be the equivalent of throwing 3 extra ice cubes in the cooler and thinking your gonna freeze your beer. The added "benefits" are pretty hyped up. While noone can deny that the aftermarket head will cool better than a stock head, the debate lies in the dollar for dollar mod. It's much more of a need to be able to change domes, and not have to get a new head gasket every time you pull the head. I have run heads that have ben cut up to .050", (on race fuel of course, because the squish was less than desirable) and have NEVER had a problem with cooling. I run a completely stock cooling system. Stock radiator,impellar, shit, stock hoses. Not once. 90+ degrees out, and trail riding. THrough the mud, 1,2 gear riding. Not one problem. If you don't wanna spend the $, are tight on cash, or don't need to change domes, if you aren't into the motor every other week, than you don't need one. Your wasting your $$$. BUT, if you do ned a head, or you want one, than get a NOSS head. PHENOMINAL product from the ones that i have seen. David is a helluva guy, and you will not have one lick of trouble. If you don't need an aftermarket head, get yours shaved at a local machine shop.

Sounds like it jumped off the neutral detent on the star. The spring could be weak on the shift star bearing holder? On the revup thing, usually, uncontrolled revving is caused by an airleak. What did you use to assemble the cases? Have you done a leakdown test?

Click here

ALot of people that don't have diesels don't realize the fun they can have with the diesel. My truck pulls 12-13 loaded. That's pulling a 14K# equipment trailer. With a gas job, I would be struggling all the way, and getting 6 MPG with that kind of weight. Maybe 7-8 MPG if I babied it. My brother has an '04 Chevy HD with the 6.0 L gasser in it. With my trailer, and the Kubota on it, (only tipping around 8K#) his truck seems like a dog. With my truck hooked to the trailer, you hardly know it's there, untill you hit a bump. And I say that honestly. You will not believe it untill you ride in a hopped up Diesel. I KNOW Sredish and Banchetta know what I mean on that. You will piss yourself smiling. Nothing beats a Diesel while towing. I can guarantee that with a diesel, and a small chip, you would be kicking yourself in the ass wondering why you didn't get a diesel sooner Pimp...

That is hella cheap. Man, for that price, I may be sending my work there!!!! I have never seen anyone price it that low. Rod was correct, I do cover shipping back, but only to HQ members. And that site shows some damn fine work!!! And to address the flywheel coming apart, that was a Ricky Stator unit. and that problem has been worked out, and is all documented for future reference now. Bring on the Ricky wheels!!!

There couldn't be more of a precise statement than right there.

The only Diesel half ton was one offered by Chevy. It was in the early ninety's. And I hear ya SRedish. Diesel is alot less expensive to refine, and plentiful. Just because every OTR truck uses it, and alot of pickups now, they gouge the shit out of it. Diesel is up to $2.35/gallon here. I get it on the indian Rezervation for $1.95/gallon. You can buy off road for $1.25/gallon, but I don't want to take a chance on getting D.O.T.'d and have them stick the tank and fine the shit out of me. Not worth it.

I don't know where in NYS you are, but here in Buffalo, the only $$ in welding is underwater welding. ABout $40/hr. Good friend of mine was into it for awhile. Untill he fell off a roof and busted himself up pretty good. What certification do you want to go for? there are ALOT of certs out there. Do you want to be DOT, field DOT? For a field DOT welder, you need to re-cert every 6 months. $$ is good on rate jobs, but I don't know what you make otherwise. I believe "tungsten" on the HQ here resides in Rochester area, and welds for a job. I weld at work, quite a bit. But it isn't the only thing I do. I am not certified, I haven't been to school for it. But I can do a damn fine job of it. Certification is merely a test. If you fail, you fail. Try again. However, if your field DOT, and you fail a re-cert, you prolly just lost your job..... There are too many certifications to list. And the money usually isn't worth it unless you go gung ho with it.

You may have to get a bolt pattern from them and see what you can do?

That sounds wayyy to rich for stock pipes. And a stock air filter as well.... I dunno though... I'm at 310 mains at 70 degrees. Pipes on my bike too....

I do not know the weight difference, but I know the RS wheel starts off lighter, yes. But the finished weight is about the same. I will weigh the next one I get....

Nice!! I threw some new rears on my bike. I definitely needed them.

The magnets are larger diameter in the flywheel itself. Therefore you cannot remove as much material. Basically, you can't cut as deep as you do for a stocker. otherwise, you cut into the magnet(s), and you get a result like we see with Push The Throttle's wheel. White Knuckle must not machine enough off of a stocker to know this. If they cut to the same specs as a stocker, they will cut deep into magnets. I was not aware that Push The THrottle's wheel was a RS piece. I did notice the fact that there was no Yamaha part # on it, and thought it was a little odd, but that was about it. Untill the tone changed while machining it. I knew something was up. I stopped, but apparently, I had already gone too far. I vowed never to do a Ricky flywheel, because I didn't know what to expect. Pretty much, a Ricky flywheel is close to an RZ flywheel. But now that I have done one, I can do them now. BD, PM me if you want some measurements on the Ricky flywheels.

The problem with a twist on a wheeler is the fact that it requires ALOT more force on the bars to turn the bike, and physically more movement to do so as well. on a bike, there is minimal movement on the bars to turn, and you can move around on a bike alot more and still be in control of the throttle. I have tried the twist. I got rid of it for fear of death. You just simply muscle the bike alot more with an atv vs. a bike.

Do you have just a drop in K&N filter, or the new plate and filter? Basically, can you run your bike without the lid and does the filter stay in? If not, than you need a Pro-Flow plate and filter. The stock filter setup is a Piece of Shit. It doesn't seal out dirt. Secondly, being that you're on a budget, I would not recommend going with an aftermarket head. Here's why. The marginal gains that you are going to get with the aftermarket unit could be seen for less than 1/4 the cost. If you don't need the bling factor, pick up the phone book, look for a local machine shop. Call them up, and ask them what it would cost you to drop off your cylinder head from your ATV and have them machine .030" (pronounced thirty thousandths) off of it. It should be around $50. The pro flow setup you could likely get from K&K for under $100. You could use your gift certificate there. If your looking for some other mods to get done, you could a TORS removal kit. I had alot of problems with mine. But, if you aren't having any with yours, don't worry about it. Let a sleeping dog lie as they say.... You could get your flywheel shaved. (lightened) This would give you a very nice increase in throttle response that you will love. And while you have the flywheel off, add to your order at K&K and get a degree key to add 4 degrees to your timing advance. (+4) This will complement the head and the flywheel nicely. For the flywheel lightening, you could PM a gentleman by the handle of "BDBanshee" on this board, or contact myself for that mod. I can also machine your head for you if you don't want/can't find a local machine shop.

Suspension is next in line I hope. With that power, you're gona need it. The plate and cut domes for a stroker is long been debated. Every builder has their preference. And you will have yours soon..

Sounds like the pilot is clogged. (no idle)

On the weight question, I am 230 lbs., 6'1", and I LOVE my lightened flywheel. The difference is truly amazing in throttle response. In sand, dirt, pavement, any condition, it will help you, and make your bike easier to ride. BdBanshee turns EXCELLENT flywheels. His products are top notch. Mine are as well. With a flywheel lightening from either BD or myself, you will be very happy.

Better suspension couldn't hurt. It will make you a very happy man!!! You could always get the +2 arms later if you wish, and have the shocks re-valved at the time they need to be rebuilt after a season anyway.... If you get the arms, you have to get shocks too, and you don't have the $$ in your budget. I would also suggest a shortened swingarm. Makes alot of difference in traction, and putting it all to the ground. You could pick up a used set of pipes too. But, if you are completely stock, I would HIGHLY suggest gettign a different air filter setup. The stock one is not good at keeping dirt out of the engine. Perhaps a Pro-Flow plate and a UNI foam filter. You could also get a lightened flywheel, which would give you a clear cut throttle response increase that you will over every time you crack the throttle. And plus, it doesn't really "increase power" so the ol' man won't know what hit 'em.

I like the grey with green. But that's just me.. Fading is somethign to think about however. On the generator thing, Do not get anything under 4500 watts. I would even be inclined to go with 5500. Here's the thing. You can NEVER have enough power. A 5500 will run a small buzzbox welder, and anything you need to run off it otherwise. I have burned up a couple generators, and my advice to you is to not go with a shitty/cheap one. Stick with something heavy duty. Don't get a Coleman power mate, no matter what the price is. Unless it's free. They are cheap, and the generation units are weak. Honda engines are usually quiet, but you can muffle things down for yourself if needed...

Do you have the carb slides in backwards? The lower part of the slide has an angled "cutaway", and this needs to face the airbox. The slides will go in the opposite carb, and hence be backwards, and will exhibit the precise symptom you describe....

The only way to get a silky smooth powerband on a two stroke is with a powervalve. It is physics of a 2 stroke engine that limit it's prowess in this area. It's like variable valve timing in a 4 banger. (think "VTEC") It allows the engine to pull the exhaust out better at lower RPM when the powervalve opens, and lets the pipe work better at higher RPM's when the valve closes.... Or vice versa. It's late and I've had a few drinks..... Either way, it works...... (whichever way it is.... )