boonman

When I first installed my stockers back on after doing that mod, (the TORS removal), I looked down the back of the carbs after I got the cable free play and syncronization on check, I started screwing the idle screw in on one carb at a time untill I could see the slide move a bit. Of course, this didn't happen on the first try, because I didn't remove enough material with my file. I followed the instructions and made the sides flat. However, this did not let the screw go deep enough to actually make contact with the slide. So, I had to take the carbs back off. Remove more material so the screw would actually make contact with the slide. Once I did this, I was golden. I screwed the screw in,(one carb at a time of course..) made the slide rise just a hair bit. Put the airbox on, put the air filter in, and fired it up. Set the idle, and I haven't looked back.....

I do it every day. (use the drill to tap a hole) works fantastically. But, it isn't for everyone. I have done it for years. Alot of oil is essential. Especially in aluminum. Aluminum likes to gall on an uncoated tap. (like the one they give you in the idle kit). For the garageman, a tap handle is a godsend. I don't even think I have one in the garage...... ANything that fits in the chuck of the Dewalt will work...

loco, the fact of the matter is, whether or not you are happy, or not happy with Jim's work, you have been flat out degrading a member of this board. With damn near every chance you get. I know opinions change. And everyone is always in search of more and more power. It's a disease, that starts when you first sling your leg over a bike. I Have been watching this unfold, and in the world of porting, nd searching for more power, you gotta bite the bullet sometimes. Some can handle it, and some can't. I don't understand that if you were dissatisfied with the engine's performance, why didn't you send it back? You buy a new car, if you are pissed about it, do you sell it? No., You take it back to the dealer. The people that sold it to you. So, I am thinking you should have at least gave Jim a chance to possibly see what is/was fucked up before you went arount slamming his business. That's all. It got me going a little bit after awhile. You can't go around slamming people when you don't give them a chance to make it right. Hind sight is always 20-20.

Man, what a PITA, sorry for all the replies there, I had to split it up, board wouldn't do it with all the quotes... And with that, some of the link don't work.... oh well...

Wierd... Because I could swear that you also recently said in THIS thread, you say Hrmmm. Still backing the very man that made you happy. And all of the sudden... Seems to me that you were VERY happy with your motor right off the bat. Seems to me you "highly" recommended another guy not too long ago.... But now, this was in reply to a trinity question in THISthread. Yup, overrated.... Weren't YOU one of the people rating them VERY highly and how the motor ripped your arms off? I still don't get it.... But right HERE is a funny one. Oh boy. You messed with the porting, AFTER the builder advised you not to, because he TOLD you that it would murder the bottom end, and you STILL went ahead and did it. And now you are pissed? And bad mouth the builder? Please man. You have got to be kidding me. I just don't understand how you go from in this thread HERE and now you cut a guy down every chance you get? That taken from this very thread. I'm not trying to start a war here, just bringing out the fact that YOU fucked with the cylinders and now you're pissed. Am I wrong?

In THIS thread, you rave about how excited you are to get your rocket pipes and how they will make your bike rip with the passion engine.... in HERE you talk about how when someone mentioned how your motor sounded good, and also What??? 2 fastest times of the day on your passion stroker? Nooooo, it cannot be... from THIS thread.... But HEREyou describe how and also,

In THIS thread here, you describe how your Passion Motor rips once again... with you were replying to the rocket pipes on an engine question. Oh boy, and in another thread, you recommend Jim again. right HERE pretty odd huh?? Should I go on? Sure, why not? ANOTHER ONE HERE in which you say when someone asks who to send their engine to.... in HERE you say Sounds to me like you are impressed with the 12 port stroker. 35 mm carbs, and she rips.... in HERE you say when someone asked about a passion stroker vs. a 400 powervalved engine.... HERE you talk a little more about how much power your bike has... and also about Jim's excellent customer service..

Loco, I just don't get it? You post in THIS thread here, that when Jim said that Hrmmm..... Putting the power to the ground in August was a problem? That tells me that you thought your engine was running strong? In THIS thread here, you actually recommend someone to Passion? What gives? In THIS thread here, you say to someone running a passion engine, Hrmmm, something is gettin fishy here. But I won't let the cat out of the bag yet... in THIS thread you describe how your bike was running at a hillclimb that no other wheeler has done in some time... Pullin' mad hard???? Sounds to me like you liked the engine then..... I could be misconstruing though? In the same thread, Old banshee asks which bike is faster on flat ground? the CR500 shee, or the passion, and you replied: Yup, you heard it from the horses mouth folks. The passion is faster. And of course a big bore single cylinder is going to have more torque than a top end ported banshee engine. Anyways, back to the things at hand here. Perhaps we may have to start calling you Senator John Kerry with all your flip flopping....

Jim's motors flat out rip.

It's gonna help. No doubt.

Be sure you polish that dent out, or your slide may hang up. On the tapping note, you can do it with a crescent wrench on the tap. Or, chuck it up in your drill.... (variable speed is needed). I regularly tap 3/8" holes in mild steel with my Dewalt cordless drill. It's what we call "power tapping". We also do it in the mills and lathes... Saves a bunch of time. But for the machinery we also have what's called a tapping head. Whole different ball game. I was really surprised what my little Dewalt 18V XRP drill does. Unbelieveable. I tapped 1/2"-13 holes in some shit, but there was a little too much slippage in the chuck... No lack of power though.... And the smallest I usually power tap with the drill is about a #6-32. I've done #4-40, but the taps are a little too flimsy at that size.....

Could be a fouled plug. Broken reeds. Plugged jet. air leak. ignition problem as well. I once had one of the wires on the primary side of the coil come off and exhibit the same problem. Your plug caps could be faulty as well. I would change the plugs, and clean the carbs and see where that leaves you....

As has been found out by the unlucky peeps that have had it happen, you will put too much of a load on the stator. It will get too hot and eventualy burn up. One of the wires on the windings will burn up. And you will be mad. And thn you will have to find a new stator. If you run anything more than a 70-75 watt load, it will burn up..... They don't put a power draw on a bulb for shits and giggles...... Think of it this way.... What happens if you put 17 100W light bulbs on a 115 volt circuit, (the power that is in every house is 115 volts....) that is on a 15 amp circuit breaker? Nothing. You will be drawing 14.78 amps. Now, add one more bulb in there. You are now at a 15.65 amp load. The lights may work dimmer than usual for a little bit, but your breaker should eventually trip. Alright, alright, it's a breaker. And our banshees dont have breakers. Alrighty then. Well, ever run your vacuum cleaner for a long time? And what happens when you grab the cord when you unplug it? Pretty damn warm right? It's because the wire is too small to handle the load. Would you try to run your 12 amp vacuum cleaner on an extension cord made of phone wire? I wouldn't. The windings in your banshee simply can't handle the extra load that will be placed on them from the increased size of the bulbs. You guys with the big stereos? Why do you upgrade the alternator in your rig? In the theory of the lights just running dimmer, you would be fine, just a little lower volume right? Wrong. You will smoke the alternator in short order. Simply because it is too much of a load. It just doesn't put out what it was designed to put out and that's it. If there is a greater load on it, it will try to compensate it and put out more.....

There's a first time for everything.... J/k Myself as well have never had a problem, but there is always that one time,and then.....

Nylon like that can get all sorts of funny when tapped out. The threads NEVER like to start in a fashion that is appeasing to the end user. What happens is that the tap starts getting a touch dull, and instead of cutting the threads, it kind of "forms" the threads. In other words, it mushes the material out, and once the tap is removed, the material shrinks some, and makes the screw go in really tight. Bummer, but that's the lay of the land with plastics and threads.....

You can go both ways on that. You can either send yours out to have it lightened, or buy one off ebay or something that is already lightened. If you choose the first option, you can send your flywheel to either BDBanshee-(BansheeWorx) or myself to have it lightened. Either way, you will like it.

Don't bother with the sugar in the gas tank. It doesn't work. But the oil thing, will work. Provided he drives an older car. Most newer cars will shut the engine down when the PCM sense no oil pressure for 15 seconds.

No replacement of the clutch is necessary, unless you want to, or if yours is troubled.... I don't sell the flywheel, just the service. You send me your parts, I machine them, and then send them back. Very quickly as well. The shift star mod will let you find neutral easier, and shift smoother. Well worth it if you already have the engine apart. I PM'ed you a price...

You shouldn't have to re-jet for a removal kit. But bout an hour is a fair estimate. Just remember to clean the hell out of them carbs after you do the tapping. Also, shave off as much as you can off the outside of the idle spots. (it tells you where in the manual, and tells you to just make them "flat".) Well, take some more off. Trust me. Otherwise, it won't idle....

You guys have got to be fuckin kidding me.

I almost forgot, you will need a new clutch cover gasket, and you will have to remove the clutch, which I use an air impact for. Once that is off, you will need a phillips screwdriver, (and sometimes an impact driver) to get the screw out of the shift drum. The Clymer manual shows the star, and the internals. Also, Meat's site, www.TheBansheeZone.com I believe has some pics as well....

Bench grinder will work alright. Although, it will be severely uneven, unless you have countless hours on a grinder. At any rate, you won't be able to do the neutral backcut with none other than a vertical, (or with some managery, a horizontal mill...)mill. This will give you smoother shifting, and less missed shifts, but the neutral backcut is a must if you wish to find neutral with the engine running.

You're welcome. I'm glad you like it. I promised a smile on your face, and I hope I didn't let ya down!!!

A complete rebuild "kit" is about $50. Which includes a new bolt, sleeve, and bearings. You need all three. If your shit is that rusted up, you will need all new anyways. So go ahead, and beat the ever lovin shit out of it.

I would get ya some new "loaded" plug caps. Mention to the parts dude that they are for a banshee. They need a resistor built into the cap. After you have the new caps, trip about 1/2" off the end of the plug wires, and install new caps. Then, install the new spark plugs that you also bought while you were at the parts counter geting the caps. See what that does.