boonman

I just started editing posts in the thread that most know what I am referring to. I believe Ellison started it awhile back, about getting his bike impounded. Some people fired it back up, and it just snowballed. Nope, nevermind, it erupted! I got not even a quarter way through and decided that it just wasn't worth salvaging. I wasted the whole thread. (deleted) You people have got to be kidding me. The slurs and ridiculousness in that thread was horrific. Some folks were just plain out of line. I couldn't believe it. Do NOT let this happen again. This shit will not be tolerated.

I've never heard of such a thing.

I ride a -2. Almost a -2.5 Anyways, i love it in the dunes, EXCEPT when trying to drag race someone. You'll flip it. There is simply too much traction in the sand with paddles for such things.. Everywhere else though, it is fun. You can float the front end anywhere you want. Jumping stability is superb. When i ride the dunes, that's what I like to do. Jump, ride around. When the time comes that I want to drag, I will set it up as such, and leave it that way. (This time is drawing ever nearer. I almost did it last year, but soon enough....)

I don't think you mentioned the bloated sow part... Anyways, being a CNC programmer, you NEED the experience in the machining end of things. Nothing can compare, or be replaced by it. This, has been supported by others in the field. The graphics thing you mentioned, sounds like it could be a good deal. i know a few people that went that route, and seem to be very successful. INdustries thrive in some areas, and fail in others. You know the market in your area better than I, but keep in mind that you have ot like what you do. Sometimes Money isn't everything. But it sure is fun!!! I am in the middle of a career change myself. I am sick of my current job, and preparing for a change.

I owned a ZX-7R. Suspension, engine, basically the entire bike was different from a 7R to a 7. And y'all that are comparing power, even though the 7R may be a slight bit heavier to the cometition of that year, the bike handled PHENOMINAL. I had NO problem beating, and/or keeping up with the ol' boys at the track. A 7R is a very solid machine. That bike will flat out handle. Well, the '96+ will. The 95's and previous were not so swell. But good for what they are.... Different frame.

There is alot of cool shit that can be done with a phone. Most of it costs $$ to a company that can provide the services for you though. I am real close to getting into all that sort of shit. In 3 weeks. Special business be coming my way.... It may mean the end of Boon tune's though. We'll see...

Do you have the TORS disconnected? It sounds like a carb issue. Did you clean the carbs? Pull the jets out, and be absolutely sure. I also had reeds go bad, and it exhibited the same problem you describe. Kind of. An air leak is possible. But the bluing of the pipe, scares me. Tells me that a carb is really lean.

Sredish is on vacation for the weekend.

I have had to break out the hot wrench, (torches) to heat them p on ocasion, but usually, the 24" crescent wrench (metric crescent wrench of course..) works like a champ.

Make sure the fuel is off, and tip the bike on it's side. Wail on that thing with a BFH. It will come out. If it doesn't, you will have to cut it out, which requires a steady hand....

You could have a bad ground at the coil. It has to have a good bare metal grounding point where it bolts on to the frame. Your TORS should be disconected at the black box which is adjacent to the coil. Are the carbs clean? Have you puled the plugs and watched while someone kicked it? THe plug boots could be bad. You say you checked the various components. WHat did you check them against? Manual specs?

What your buddy is speaking about is an old schoole way of beating the system in a stock class on a drag sled. You would be raising the port timing. It will work effectively on top end, but as mentioned, at the sacrifice of something else. You would see more of a gain across the board by having the head machined, and take the compression increase for what it's worth, and ride it. If you want to mess around with timing, get it ported by someone who knows banshees.

Yup, and it's only matter of time untill others break off. And in a case I have personally witnessed,a piece of a broken ear got lodged in the crank seal, and the engine was ingesting huge amounts of tranny oil. Big mess.

I think it's funny.....

Usually next day. But, in extreme circumstances, it has been 2 days.

In your banshee's spark plug caps, there are resistors built in. From the factory. IN the factory caps. Now, if you change spark plug caps, to something other than stock, or some that lack the internal resistor, SERIOUS damage to your CDI will result. In a case such as this, you will have to run the "R" style plugs. Now, NGK makes plug caps that have a resistor built in. I run them on my bike. This is VERY IMPORTANT to realize. You need to have a resistor in line to minimize interference. So, either "loaded" caps, or "R" plugs. You make the call. You can also use "R" plugs and resistor caps. I do, and don't have a problem.

Yep, cut the connectors off, and don't let them touch each other, or anything else...

The reason you would want/need to run race fuel at any time relies on compression, squish, and timing. In the most basic of terms. What is needed here is resistance to detonation, or pre-ignition. Two different things, but closely related. Now, as the piston is travelling up, it begins to compress the air/fuel mixture. Now, with a low octane mixture, and high compression, what would happen would be the heat of the compression stroke alone is enough to ignite the fuel. So, adding more octane to the fuel's numbers, would increase it's resistance to this. And you would not explode the mixture prematurely. Adding timing advance to this equation, can also lead to a case of the pinging engine. (a "ping" is the noise you would listen for to try to determine, among other things, like a plug check, if you are having a problem with detonation). The increased timing can give you a pre-ignition problem if you aren't running enough octane. It ignites before Top Dead Center and goves you a sonic wave that the engine doesn't like. You will lose power, and cause damage to the engine. So, to much advance, and to much compression can lead to detonation if you aren't running enough compression. You should be fine with your setup on some good 93 octane fuel.

I ride the woods, and in the dunes. I love the lightened flywheel. Wouldn't be without it. Lets the engine rev quicker. And because the banshee is a 2 stroke twin, you aren't going to have low end problems or stalling issues. You will be a hapy camper every time you ride the bike. It doesn't give you any more power, persay, but what it does do for you is give your right hand easier access to the available power.

Click ME to go to B370's page on this. There is some pics on there.

I would not re-use them. Think if you get the engine all back together, and then after 5 hours of riding, one of the seals let go, and you eithr have an airleak, or start sucking tranny oil in the right side. Now, you have to remove the engine, and do it ALL over again. Do you really wanna chance it for te minimal cost new crank seals? I know I wouldn't wana in my engine...

You will gain quicker, more precise shifts. And lose the missed shifts and the times when it goes "in-between" gears, and hangs up. Unless you bend a shift fork. Anyways, you will also be able to find neutral in a snap. A modded star with the neutral detent cut back is a Godsend for the times when you need to find neutral with the bike still running. You will like it. Now, you can mod the star yourself on a bench grinder. BUT, you will need a milling machine and a carbide endmill to machine the neutral detent back. The shift star is harder than a Bulls' #@$* if you know what I mean. I have heard of people grinding the neutral detent with a dremel, but for the minimal cost, I would highly suggest having it dne right. A die grinder cannot size the detent properly, and let the cam roller sit the way it should...

Ebay. Unless you have a friend at the dealer...

Why would you not recommend it if you are over 200 #'s??? I am 230, I have mine lightened, and I love it. A banshee has a power stroke every 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation. Not like a single cylinder bike, or a 4 stroke. Anyone that downplays lightening a flywheel on a banshee either has never tried it, and likes to theorize about something they know nothing about, and/or have NEVER tried it. A banshee is a totally different animal when it comes to flywheel mass.

That is the brain module for the TORS system. Just unplug it. Leave the connectors on, or cut them off. Just make sure they aren't connected...