boonman

Yup, looking at the pic, it looks as if it broke right at the point where the center hub ends on the face of the flywheel. It also looks as if material was taken off the face. That looks pretty thin in that area. Also, like BD mentioned, just attempting to remove the flywheel with a jaw style puller can weaken the flywheel. And that is where it will do it. It also looks like not alot of material was removed from the outer diameter of that wheel.

You can take off any amount up to .030" off. Any machine shop should be able to do it, however, I don't know what they would charge. I grind all my heads, which takes me quite a bit longer to do, but they come out perfect. No machining marks are evident, and a perfect gasket surface. It would likely cost a small fortune to have someone surface grind a head. But throwing it on a mill, and fly cutting it shouldn't cost you over $50. Look in the phone book for a local machine shop.

That should work fine. Provided you are talking about taking the crank end out of the ear of the crank, and just using that.

I could ship you a couple of my bearded dragons. Them fuckers eat me out of house and home with food. Fuckin mice by the dozen I BUY for $$$ from the pet store. I'm gonna have to start raisin mice so it's cheaper. How about that. One with a problem here, and one that can't get enough!!!

I went through the identity theft thing awhile back. Me and the wife were attempting to buy a house. I thought nothing of it when the bank dude says, "if your guys credit checks out, you'll have the papers tomorrow" because I have always kept my credit impeccable. Never missed ANYTHING. ANd when he told me there was a problem with my credit, I went through the roof. I was a victim of Identity theft. Some mother fucker in Glendale Arizona was using my name and all my shit to get utilities, and phones, and all sorts of shit. Took me years to get it all cleaned up. CLosing EVERY account you have, and putting a 7 year fraud alert on your SS#. It sucks. And it is up to the merchant to heed the fraud alert as well. They can give credit to whomever, and whenever they please. And if something defaults, it goes back on you. ANd it is up to YOU to prove it wrong. )(when it comes to identity theft, anyway...) You see, in an Identity Theft crisis, you are GUILTY untill YOU prove yourself innocent. Which means countless hours of time off from work, tracking shit down, phone calls, disputes, paperwork, claims, phone tag. Fuckin shit. It sucks. I feel for ya Stan, I really do. I have a file in my cabinet at home about 2" thick from the last fiasco.....

There are some pics on the site. I don't know where. I posted some up some time ago I do remember. The only problem with people doing them themselves, is things can get dangerous real quick. You need to have an arbor, specifically made to hold a banshee flywheel. And the only people capable of doing this should be accomplished machinists. It's not like drilling a hole. If you take material from the wrong spot, and the flywheel comes apart, you may trash the stator. or other things. Basically, you put it on the arbor, chuck the arbor in a lathe. And turn it down. De-bur it, and your ready to go. Anyone with the proper knowledge can do it. It's just that it should be done right. Or you risk an out of balance flywheel, and problems down the road if done incorrectly.

Got a 600 Polaris. It's the wifes. Next year, I hope to buy myself a 440 Polaris so I can ride with her..... I "steal" it every now and again. I used to race snocross on an indy 500. I made my own rear suspension, and re-did the front as well. Maybe I'll get back into it when I can afford it. For now, winter time is taken up with skiing....

I loosen two bolts, rotate the carrier, and tighten the two bolts. Works excellent. Although, I have a round carrier. You need to get one. Untill then, you will suffer.

There's a conspiracy...... Watch your back..... That's really wierd on a more serious note....

A -2" swinger really puts the power to the ground. Really, anything shorter than stock is gonna get the job done. It all comes down to a trigonometry/physics type of thing. But, my ass tells me that the power gets to the ground with my -2" on the bike. Only time I don't like it is when I'm tryin to drag in the dunes. It just doesn't happen. BUT, EVERYWHERE else in the dunes, it works awesome!!!

I sold my truck on Ebay. Got taken in the ass for it. But I needed to get rid of it. Set a reserve, and see what happens...

the only thing that Ford can see with a programmer is that an ECM code, about the KAM (Keep alive memory) has faulted. Hence, tellign them that you had the batteries disconnected for whatever reason. That is it. You see, disconnecting the batteries, clears the memory, and starts the system "fresh". Taht's why you have to tell them you had the batteries disconnected. Otherwise, it's a dead give away. Now, I have my EGT probe Pre-Turbo, and the only thing they can gig me on with that would be if the fins on the turbo grenade. And if that happens, Im not going to be looking for a replacement turbo from Ford anyways. and the probe would have to break off to cause catastrophic damage. For however, is loking for any reason to void your warranty in most instances. But, an exhaust isn't going to void your warranty. ANd yea, on TDS, it seems that some people have a problem with the dealer voiding them out. Which is understandable for some of the things they do. And they could very well void my warranty for me cleaning the terminals on the PCM board. But, that's the chance you take I reckon..... If my truck suffered severe damage, I Have no doubt that at my dealer, it would be covered under the 100K. But, If I was out of town, I would have my doubts. I would likely trailer the truck home. and take it to my local dealer just to be sure. It's a crap shoot when it comes to modding your truck. The manufacturer (Ford) has often times voided people with completely stock trucks. For very small things. Like a tire change. Little odd things. It all depends on the weather I think.....

I have a boost bottle. It resides in a rubbermaid container in the garage. I made slugs that I plugged the holes with. I tested the boost bottle, stock balance tube, and the plugs. I like the performance of the plugs. Seems that the throttle response is right the way I want it with the plugs....

Dave, as I remember it, you said don't bother shipping it because you didn't want it. You said, just leave positive feedback, and you would do the same.. if you want one, I would be glad to send it to you?

In a crew cab, you can get 4.10 gears in a srw configuration from my understanding. Anyways, your warranty isn't going to be voided because of an intake. Nor an exhaust. My warranty is still in check, and I have a chip. Just had the HPOP O-rings done recently under warranty. With a chip, it can be voided though. But, a programmer, they can't ever prove it's use. As long as you clear the memory, and tell them you had the batteries out to explain the fault code of the memory clear, your all set. The factory intake will not flow as much air as an AFE. But it may be close. The 6.0 intake is a phenominal unit. Works flawlessly for a stock intake. Your EGT's would drop 2-300 degrees with a larger exhaust. Your EGT's are really high right now. I was in the same boat. My truck, running 75 MPH loaded at 11K# is right around 800-850 on level ground. I RARELY get up to 1100, let alone past it. I have had to back out of the throttle once due to heat on the guage. That was at WOT, chip in the 140 setting, and on a fairly steep grade. I was feeling things out when I first installed the chip, and seeing what it did. On the stock setting, no matter how the truck is loaded, I cannot get the EGT past 1050. No matter what I do. And getting it that hot takes a long grade, and some really gnarly lugging. I think you would benefit very much from an exhaust.

If he wants something for pulling, I recommend he gets into a programmer. Edge Evolution makes a great programmer. I used one on my truck, and I may get another one, and stack it with the TS chip. I'm not sure how crazy I need to get though. I LOVE my TS chip. I have 2 things I don't like about it. One, it lets the motor slightly overrev, (1-200 RPM's) before it will shift the truck. This, the PCM does NOT like. It makes the truck stop charging, the battery light comes on, and you have to cycle the key before it will start charging again. I also do not like the fact that when you hit the brakes, the Torque convertor unlocks. With my stock programming, (a VDH5 code) the torque convertor stayed locked, and helped you decelerate. SO, down a hill, I have to click the chip to stock, and then click it back to whatever when I get to the bottom. I only do it when I'm towing. Which is actualy quite a bit. I am assuming he has a 5 speed in that F-550. If he does, than he can run quite a bit more power. I only tow in the 50 or 75 mode because I have an automatic, and I don't like routing all that power through a stock torque convertor. Once I upgrade that though, it's game on!!! TS also sells a 4 stage flip. And it is cheaper, if not the same price as an edge evolution programmer. I do however, recommend that he gets an exhaust on that truck first and foremost. Then, he needs to get some guages. At least an EGT guage.

I am running a stock shock on my -2 swingarm. But, I am a fat slob, so it works out for me....

I sold an empty can of Sierra Mist on Ebay. I got $1.50 for it.

If it is the main bearing, and not the ball and rod that you are speaking of, than yes.

Filling to the neck, (drizzling the last 6 gallons or so of fuel, because I haven't harpooned the tank yet), hand calculated, because the overhead display is wayyyyyy off, (although I would like it not to be, because it registers 20+ MPG.. LOL) and I get 12.5 MPG on a consistent basis, 65-70 MPH, hauling 12-14K#. No "shenanigans". my truck is an '03, Crew cab Lariat, short box. I have (I think I mantioned it above, but so you don't have to scroll) an AFE stage 2 intake with a Pro guard 7 filter, and a 4" turbo back exhaust. My chip is a TS Performance 6 stage flip, programmed with stock, high idle, 50, 75, 100, and 140 HP settings. I normally tow in the 50 horse setting, sometimes 75. I hauled my Dodge to Long Island, the trip one way was over 500 miles. Keep in mind that the truck stood at 13' height, because I left it on the 44" tires. Call it a parasail if you want to behind the truck. I drove 65-70 MPH, all the way there, perhaps a couple short runs to 75 or so. I pulled 12.5 MPG-13, hand calculated. On the way back, the trailer weighs 4K#'s, and I got 15-16MPG. Around town pulling equipment, I get 10-11 depending on how I drive. On the open road, I am back up to 12-13 on the mileage scale though. 14K# is the max load on the trailer at once. Not all the time is it loaded that much. You can't compare stock truck, to a modded one. Not wen it comes to diesels. I frequent the TDS quite a bit. Get an exhaust and an intake on your truck, and then post up some Mileage #'s. I would like to see the difference. Because when my truck was stock, I got much the same mileage as you did. Stock, these trucks are choked up too much. I think you would like the benefits of an upgraded intake and exhaust. Even if you keep the stock programming. I see you have an '04. That is a 6.0L truck. Towing with that truck and an exhaust on it, will help out immensely. That variable turbo can really help you out when you can get rid of the hot exhaust. You have guages right? Try keping your EGT's as low as possible. If I tow any more than 70 MPH, well, about 75+, my mileage drops considerably. Down to 10 or below. Also, what gears do you have?

The most accurate way is not on the bike. Because now you are factoring in years of use on the bike, a possibly bent frame, bent anything, even just a slight tweak and it will be off. You need to measure the swinger from the front pivot tube, and square it up off of that. You need to make the swinger tubes parallel to themselves. (the pivot and the carrier). You can't measure off the front end. I do understand that this would be essentially aligning it to that particular bike, but if it's bent, it's all fucked anyways. CEJ has it nailed. You can measure several different ways, and the one he mentioned, is one that you should use as well. Also, you need to make sure that along with the tubes being in line so the bike doesn't pull left or right, you need to make sure that it doesn't sit crooked in a fashion such as when a 500# person getting into one side of a vehicle. Know what I'm sayin'???

Measuring is the key. Measure twice, cut once. Measure three times, weld once. .010" probably wouldn't make too much of a difference.

Ummmm, I don't know what you're talking about.... LMAO!!!! I love easing into it untill the convertor locks up in second gear, (about 30 MPH), which gives the mustang about a 5-6 car lead. At that point, You nail it, and smoke (literally) right past them. Whistling all the wayyyy.. ANd when you do it with a 4-5,000# trailer, that's even more degrading to the mustangs and Camaro's..... I can't wait for propane this spring.....

I shortened my swingarm 2" when I did mine. I just cut deeper into the swingarm. I didn't/don't have a plasma cutter, or even access to one. So I machined the whole thing. It took a long time.... Just make absolutely sure that the carrier is perfectly square with the rest of the arm or the bike will "pull" to one side or the other....

Namura pistons are cast. Stock pistons are cast. Namura, may very well not have as stringent as a regulation as the place that makes the stock pistons. Ify ou have a stock engine, you wll probably not have a problem. BUT, when you factor in mods, it is a crap shoot. I will NOT use a Namura piston. It's just simply not worth it. They are proven to crack. They are not as reliable as a forged piston, such as a Wiseco. Now, with a forged piston, it will expand faster than the cylinder wall will when the engine is cold. So, care must be taken to make sure the engine is warmed up before you go beating the balls off it. With a cast piston, you can fire it up, and go riding. (not that I Would anyways, just food for thought..)