boonman

Over 100 MPH in first gear. Odd. I would have to watch it go by me, with a radar gun in my hand before I would believe that ANY street bike that is available to the general public off the showroom floor is crackin triple digits in first gear. Please, that gives it an estimated top speed of 240 MPH. I don't think some of y'all realize what you're firin out here. I'm not talkin about looking down at your speedo and tellin me whaty ou saw. Because every tom dick and harry thinks their snowmobile around here goes well over 100 MPH, and it just doesn't happen. Anyways, I have my doubts about the original post in here. It's possible, but not likely. And when I as running 1/8 mile tracks, I was topping out 3rd, and sometimes I would dabble fourth on my ZX-7RR. one tooth lower up front. And my bike would not crack even 80 in first. Even with stock gearing. And my shit was pretty hot.

You remove material from the outside of the flywheel, and some from the center hub. The best way to do it is to have the flywheel mounted on a spindle of some sort, but you could chuck up on the outside. Although it's not the best way to make sure the flywheel is perfectly true.......

LIke mentioned, cable could be stiff? Also, whacking coils off the spring, is going to make the throttle STIFFER. Not softer. I would double check everything. Cable routing, slide install. And get some new springs....

My temp guage works splendidly in the small "vent" hose. Contrary to popular belief, coolant actually does flow out of that orifice. Ever leave that hose off and see what happens? Friggin' guyser!!!!!

I'm guessing that the new found power may be coming from having it jetted properly. And the swinger is gonna make it hook up so much more, that you will be putting the power to the ground, and feeling it, rather than spinning, and not feeling it..... Glad to hear that you got it back up and running!!

Is this machine stock? You say "carb". Does that mean you have one carb? Or do you have two? Do you still have the TORS system on the bike? (looks like large units on the top of the carbs) Gas poured out of where? The cylinders? Or from the carb(s) themselves? You need to be more specific here....

It doesn't restrict your top RPM. It is not a performance gain. Most people remove them for the sake of easier jetting, and the fact that the system acts up quite frequently....

CLICK THIS for a spreadsheet on speed calculations. It is a link to BenBB's site, and a spreadsheet he made.

The float bowl with the extra tube in it goes on the carb with the fuel enrichment knob. (commonly referred to as the left carb.....)

Holeshots are on the back of my bike right now. Work flawlessly. I love them. In mud, anything. Well, except sand.....

It worked good for him, but he was running out of frames, and doing strictly draggin....

Jason, (Screamin_banshee) used to run alky on stock porting..

Thar she blows!!!!! I am thinking that the Ricky flywheels are made differently. Actually, I know they are made differently. By that I mean to different specs.... The dimensions, and where the magnets sit in the flywheel are different. I got all the dimensions down now, however, so I am ready for the next prospective Ricky owner who may want to dabble in the throttle response end of things......

www.thomasregional.com

a tap in that size is going to cost hundreds of dollars....

I Hear ya Jason, but Apparently Jim offered to have a look see at the problem, and that offfer was refused. I guess if you are that mad at someone, who gives a #$%^&????? Right??? Oh well. I've said my peace on it. Just trying to get to the bottom of all the misconceptions on this topic. It has been one of a heated debate. To each their own.....

I had a flywheel shatter on someone. I also had a Ricky Stator come apart. I have alleviated those problem however.

Stan, you say that like it's a bad thing????? Mine even has a nice little White Brothers sticker on it!!! lmao!!!!

You can take the CDI to the dealer and have them test it I believe. I may be wrong though? In order to test it, I have always done what STClarke has mentioned, swap in a different unit. Now, make sure you have good grounds at the coil. The coil is mounted to the frame, and it gets a ground through the mounting bolt, as well as the black wire. Be sure the pickup coil is gapped properly. .020" I believe is the magic number. check out BenBB's Banshee electrical FAQ on his site. CLICK HERE to check that out. Also, be sure that the key is on, and the kill switch is in the run position. Sounds stupid, but it has been done before....

My same problem dealt with idling. Not backfiring. Just FYI. And if it is backfiring, it is either lean, or there is a problem with the ignition. Be sure the connections are clean and "tight".

The old shit (tapping fluid) is definitely the best. Works awesome!! We use it sparingly, because we have little left.

That is absolutely something that is needed. Unless you like the thought of the steering stem pulling right out? It's kind of what holds it in. Imagine yourself yanking on the bars to pull the front end up, and you fly off the back of the machine, handlebars and steering stem in hand as your bike goes careeming down the trail...... Prolly not that severe of an outcome, but something similar would surely happen. I am not quite sure what you could do. There isn't a helicoil.... Perhaps welding the retainer in there? It would take a knowledgeable TIG welder, and some time to do it. And it may prematurely trash the bearing... That collar has to be in there....

The key to stop that is to have a flat surface for the nut to seat on. This way, the nut has a full contacting surface on which to do it's duty. (keep the screw from turning)

This is precisely the case. Ih ave done the same thing myself. Break out the grinder, and have at it.....

I have a boost bottle. I tossed it in the big rubbermaid bin in the top of the garage.