boonman

You have a diesel, you most certainly can dump filtered veggy oil in the tank and run it. Provided a few things are done first. www.bio-diesel.org. ANyways, the stock tranny guage is useless. FOrget it even exists. It isn't going to lean the motor in the 75 setting. Quite the contrary. It will run rich, and run the egt's up a little bit. If you don't have guages, I wouldn't tow in the 75 setting. I tow in my 75 setting. All the time. I even click 140 sometimes. Just for shits and giggles. I wouldn't even tow stock without guages. My EGT's were higher stock, than they were with mods. Guages were the first mod I did.

Badshee, the problem here is that the bad piston in this particular incidence was on the "good" side of the head. But, from the pics you can see that the right side of the head, had some previous pounding, as evidenced by the dark spots, where carbon has built up a little since the damage happened.

If you don't have guages, yes. Towing will get your EGT's up there quite considerably. You should also be monitoring your tranny temps to make sure nothing funny is going on there.

You may have had a previous failure on the right side, explaining the pounding on the head. If the piston on that side loks fine, I'd say that was the case. But, if the piston dome on the right side matches the head, it looks like you had a lower bearing failure.

Be sure to either drain the tranny oil, or tip the bike on it's side so you don't empty any oil on the ground.

I always got beer. Licquor, whatever you want. Guages take about 2-3 hours. Assembling and wiring the pod takes the longest. Actually installing it in the truck is a snap. An exhaust, about 45 minutes. I did my exhaust in the parking lot here at work. I had a trip I was going on, and needed to get it on. They are slick to install. Easy. And intake, same way. If you have organized tools, it should take you about 30-40 minutes to do an intake. Fuel mileage on my truck just went very far south this tank. I don't know what is up. It seems as though I lost about 10 gallons somewhere. Also, there was a rash of bad Diesel fuel here from Sunoco. Smoked ALOT of engines, and even more injectors. I am wondering if that may have hapened to me. (injector) I guess I will have to check my oil. See if I have any fuel in there.

I'll sell ya one, or mod the one you have. Or, you can just mod the one you have, and if you don't like it, take me up on my money back guarantee. Can't beat that, unless you get it done for free.. for what it's worth, I have NEVER had anyone send one back. They all love it. Never one complaint. I stand behind my work 100%. Anyone will tell ya that. I am also a heavyweight. (230 lbs) I do 90% trail riding. I wouldn't be without it. If you are having a traction problem, get a shorter swingarm. If you are having a throttle response problem, get your flywheel lightened.

I have all Autometer Ultra-Lite guages. I have a 4-pillar pod. It was a breeze to install. I have done several installs on guages as well. It is nothing tricky about it. Well, locating the proper wires to tap into was a bit troublesome. BUT, I can provide you with the wiring colors to tap. All you need is the dash light wire and the ignition hot wire when the key is on. Other than that, I drilled my driver side exhaust pipe, right off the manifold. I drilled with an "F" drill, which is a few thousandths over 1/4" in diameter. The EGT probe slid right in, and it came with a stainless clamp to hold it in place. I haven't had a problem with leaks yet, and I haven't heard of any from others either. Be sure to put the EGT probe in before the turbo. The turbo sucks away too much heat, and it won't be accurate. To give yo an idea, max temp pre-turbo on a Powerstroke is around 1200-1250. Post turbo is 850-900. (F) Anyways, the boost guage, you can tee into the MAP line, or just completely remove the map sensor line and do the electronic mod that I did and connect the line that used to go to the MAP sensor and use it for your boost guage. The tranny guage sender goes into the tranny on the drivers side, where there is a test guage port, that is plugged with an 1/8" NPT plug. I also have a volt guage, because I don't have one in the dash. Simple. and some of the sponsors of the Diesel Stop website sell pre-wired guage pod kits. If you are in my area, Stop by, and I'll help ya do it. And the mileage thing, an exhaust and intake will help your mileage, and the chip will either help you if you can keep your fot out of it, (I can't) or even with your foot in it, you still will pull what you used to stock. If I keep my foot out of it, I can see an honest MPG of about 16-17. i have heard mileage in the 20+ range, but I belive those to be fallacy. ALthough, I haven't modded my fuel system yet, to get the air from leaking in to stop. But that's a story for another day. If you want ot buy guages, talk to SRedish. He will hook you up.

Nope, I modded my MAP sensor. I haven't done the 10K mod. Nothing with the ICP at all. You see, modding the MAP sensor in the manner I have described, provides approximately a 4.22 volt reading from the sensor output wire to ground. This tells the PCM that the truck is seeing 20PSI or so of boost, which is enough to trick the PCM into going directly to it's richest fuel map. Right off the bat. I am getting right to the point. No low fueling on off idle performance. I want the juice, and I want it now kind of thing. I have heard of too many problems with the 10K mod. And the salt up here eats things up. So in an essence, my truck thinkis it is making 20 pounds of boost at idle. So as soon as I tap the throttle, I'm in it. Sredish, no go on the guages. I am sick of trying to help people out in that regard. I bother you for a price, and then they float me some bull shit line. I'm sick of it. It wastes my time, and more importantly, yours. Anyways, that's about it for the MAP mod. I didn't want a cluster regulator setup. I have a million of them in the shop I could use. I felt doing it electronically was the way to go. It is. Sredish, I may never go 6.0. Perhaps when I strike the lottery, but untill then, I'll prolly drive this truck to the ground. And it smokes 6.0's now... Well, not smokin them, but beating them.

I modded my MAP circuit. It currently doesn't even have the wires plugged into it anymore. You take a 1K ohm resistor and attach one end to the center wire, and the other end to the left wire. You then take a 10K ohm resistor and attach one end to the center wire, and the other end to the right wire. (when looking at the truck from the front) I don't remember the color codes. SOmeone posted it on TDS awhile ago. I decided to try it. It really does work. It makes for a litte smoke. i know this, because my truck did NOT smoke hardly at all. It gets a little now. All I know is I can clear 25 PSI no problem now. Without the truck getting pissed off.

I SINCERELY hope you have some guages in that truck. If not, you are running a time bomb. I am sorry I didn't get here before. I must have missed this post completely. You NEED to monitor your EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature) VERY closely. Especially with a stock exhaust. Removing the muffler was a good thing. That hols alot of heat, and is a waste. You don't really need a muffler on a turbo assisted engine. Bully DOg makes a respectable product. I myself have a T.S. chip. 6 bank flip style. I also have a 4" turbo back exhause, and an A.F.E. stage 2 intake. I have my MAP sensor circuit modded as well, so I don't get the Service Engine light on overboost. I don't even have my MAP sensor plugged in anymore. I have a bunch of other things done, too much to mention. But, you can get in trouble with EGT's with a chip. You need to get guages. Also, don't be hammering on the truck ntil the torque convertor locks. Otherwise, you will be investing in a new transmission veery soon. The stock torque convertor isn't very good to holding up to the extra torque. You will need three guages for your truck. tranny temp, EGT-(Pyrometer) and a boost guage. Garret doesn't recommend anything over 25 PSI on the stock turbo for boost. Right now, if you overboost the truck, and throw the engine light on, it opens the waste gate, and cuts back the fuel. When the waste gate opens, your EGT's will go through the roof. With the right things on that truck, you will be very happy. Do not trust the in dash tranny temp guage. Forget it's even there.

For a new job I will be partaking in. I may have more info at a later date. Concealable, or non, it doesn't really matter. But, the boss man says IIIA is what he is requiring for everyone to have. I am thinking I may want 2 vests. A concealable, and a jacket. Jacket for the heavy jobs, and concealable for everyday wear. I have done quite a bit of searching and what not. I am finding that anything worth a damn has to be rated. The normal vest protection will not be enough. I will need plates for stab protection as well. It is going to be tough to have a concealable on my frame. (6'1", 230 #'s) But I think I can manage. And RebelBanshee2, oddly enough, I will be in Rochester for training this weekend. The ceramic plates are out of the question. I don't need level IV protection. And they are heavy. I guess I will just go with what I can find. Oh, and the climate, it can get hot here, but it's not bad. Some days however, the humidity will punish the hell out of you. Breathability will be a concern on a concealable, but a jacket style will only be used when the shit goes down.

Well folks, it has come time that I need to have one of these units. I need a IIIA rated vest. Anyone use one of these, or have knowledge of them? I am curious who is the best manufacturer, and what I need to know before making a purchase. I do know not to purchase anything that is more than about 3-4 years old. I may go new, if I can get a good deal. Likely, it will be a used one or something like that. Any thoughts? Jump in.

Ahhhh, I remember the good ol' days, when fuel was $.99/gallon. I just fillled up on the rezervation, Diesel was $2.05. At the normal pump, it is $2.40. It sucks. I haven't bought any gasoline in a long time however, and I haven't really payed much attention. SOmewhere over $2 I'm sure though.

Have you ever been drag racing, or even riding, and you shift the bike, and it kind of "hangs" in between a couple gears? How about trying to find neutral when the bike is running. All this is fixed with a modded star. I now offer brand spankin' new modded stars. Right from Yamaha I get the new star, mod it, and it's ready for sale. So, no more missed shifts, well, a decreased amount by far, and you can find neutral with the bike running.

Usually, when the flywheel is out of round so to speak, that's where mother Yamaha folks drill the lightening divits in them. There is no need to re-balance. It's already balanced . If you must do it yourself, be very careful. Do not go too deep on your cut. I do not recommend cutting alot off the face either. I have seen plenty of flywheels break there. Keep in mind that the outer part of the flywheel is only riveted onto the center hub. For an accomplished machinist, you could do it. If you have a lathe you can use, go for it. if you have a lathe you have seen once, and you think you can do it, don't bother. It would be an expensive mistake. Also, you ned to have the proper tooling to get a good finish on it. Some of the wheels chatter easily and give you a horrible finish. I am sure BDBanshee has seen the same thing.

Basically, (for those who didn't get to see it in all it's "glory") Someone decided to fire up a bunch of slander about killing someone's entire family, and wishing misfortune's to others. SOmeone else made a crack about being "postal" and it ignited from there. Just got WAYYYYYYYYY out of hand. Back and forth. I don't remember th elast time it got that far out of whack. Not even in the roostin' room. I started cleaning it up, post by post, and got aggravated. I wasn't even off the first page, (and I have the maximum # of post per page selected, and it was still over 3 pages long) and just deleted the entire thread. Noone went whining to anyone. I did receive 2 reports on it after I checked my email last night, but that was kind of after the fact. I haven't been on lately too much, pretty much just to answer PM's. Last night I had some time on my hands. It all boils down to this being the general Discussion forum, and it was unbelievable. If this was a heavily moderated site, several people would have been banned. But it's not. This is about the least moderated site I visit, and that's why people come here. But, that post was hideous. Something had to be done.

I have heard of some folks having alleged problems with wheel spin. I do not notice any on my bike. I feel the throttle response is more beneficial than any ill fated wheelspin. If you are having a problem with wheel spin, perhaps new tires may be in order?

You have a PM.

It's kind of tough to get a holeshot when you go from being over the bars, to flat on your ass.....

It could be a little out. Is this on a stock flywheel, or a lightened one? Be sure that your arbor matches the taper perfectly.

How would you like to be in Erie County, NY. They just CLOSED EVERY county park because of their fiscal budget bull. I could go on and on about that. It's national news. A friggin clusterhell. And State parks, they charge here for every one I've been too.

Anyone that has told you that it will kill the powerband is stuck on a Honda Odyssey for the last 10 years. Perhaps a Big Red ATC. On a banshee, it actually OPENS up the powerband, and lets you access the power. The bike has a power stroke every 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation, so don't worrry about people telling you that the bike will stall, and you'll lose low end. You won't. Milling the head, ( I grind heads, same difference, but a much better finish..) will get you some compression. Which will increase the kick in the pants across the board. With just these two mods alone, it will feel like a whole different animal. And to put it to the ground, I suggest you get the shift star modded, so you don't skip gears anymore, and so that when you want to get off the bike to wait for your buddies after you smoke 'em, you'll be able to find neutral with the bike running. Either BDBanshee (on the boards here) or myself can do your flywheel for you. I don't know if he does heads or not, but I can do that, as well as mod the shift star. Combined with the pipes, you will have a rippin', very reliable machine. My bike is setup almost identical....

Lonestar axle. Simply the best. Shocks, get the best you can afford. The rest, quicksand is about the best bang for the buck. Great products!!

Your float is either stuck in a fashion that has the needle valve open, and fuel is pouring into the bowl without regulation, or the needle and/or seat is shot. You need to take the carbs off the bike, and pull tham apart and clean them with some good cleaner. If the float is sticking, I am betting that the jets can't be in too good of shape either. It's not a hard job. SHould take you about an hour to do the whole job... (for a first time...)