boonman

Doesn't look too bad. But I would just get the swingarm, and order a carrier from Stan. Seems a little pricey as well...

Yea, the surge I know of, but this is more pronounced than the normal "crispening" that seems to happen on these bikes. It still has the oil injection. It works, So why mess with it..... The baffle was the first item to be tossed. I drained and cleaned the fuel tank, as it had a TON of shit in it. I also noticed that in the fuel inlet in the carb, there is a TINY hole for the fuel to come in, and it kept getting clogeed. Hence the reason for the tank coming off. The air in the tank, that is actually vapor locking. It happened, and I drilled and tapped the cap for a fitting, and I vented it myself. It seems to be running better, but still not up to his buddies tri-zinger. I will have to dig deeper. There is more power, somewhere....

Zinger is a 60cc 2 stroker. It seems like a carb issue, but I can't get it jetted out. I am thinking it could possibly be the reeds?

I drilled and re-tapped my frame holes to 7/16"-20 thread. Worked fantastic. A good hardware store will have a kit...

Smoother shifts, and being able to find neutral when the bike is running. Always a plus. I don't recommend doing it untill you have to get into that side of the engine. You have to drain all the fluids, and get a new clutch gasket. Unless you can salvage your old one, which usually isn't the case. But, ti will make a noticeable difference, as will the flywheel.

You either have a stroker crank, a Long Rod crank, or someone messed up. Does it run? Blaster wrist pin holes are approximately 5mm higher in the piston.

Just a FYI, the eccentric screw is on the shift shaft. Not the shift star. Lok inbetween the shift star and the point at which the shift shaft comes through the case. In between those two, is the adjuster screw. It came on all year bikes....

Anyone got one of the old (around '86-'88) Yamaha 4-Zinger's? I got one for the kid from a guy, and I can't seem to get the thing to run like it should. It surges, and seems like it loads up too easily. But the plug looks perfect every time I pull it? Any ideas?

You need a lathe to re-cut the domes. And some knowledge of combustion, and physics.... And some good tooling.

Have you tried adjusting the shifter resting position? There is an eccentric screw that moves it about...

I did one set of gears for someone. I don't even remember who. I used a solid carbide endmill. Actually, 3 of them. Them gears do NOT like to be machined. An EDM is the ticket.

I would throw a body lift in that biatch as well. Then ya got 6" total ,and enough to clear some 37" rubber. 35" if you wheel hard. My stock hubs were junk on my Dodge, and when they went for the last time, I swapped to a hi-pinion reverse rotation Dana 60 with manual lockouts and serviceable wheel bearings. Man, is that ever the cat's nuts axle for a pickup. King pins, crossover steering. Worked well. And the bearings survived life with 44" boggers. With a 3" lift, you should replace the lower links with slightly longer ones. But, everyone gets by on an acceptable caster angle without replacing them. The factory trac bar is junk. It will be junk several times over unless you purchase a better unit. The upper ball joint likes to wear prematurely. No matter how much you grease it.

Abyss, in the end of your statement, you say that the 2-1 pipe makes the powerband come on faster, I don't thinkg that is necessarily true. It makes it come on earlier, and sign off earlier. Basically, making the power curve, when viewed on a graph, move about 2-3,000 RPM to the left. And I think that going with a -2 swinger, and a lightened flywheel would make you a happy camper. or rider. Either or. Let me know when you get your swinger on. I'll get you a flywheel to test.

Never heard of such a thing. Are you talking about power bands???

I am from around Buffalo NY. I have been to Silver Lake MI before. It's alot of fun, but it seems that the West coast dunes would be alot more to experience as far as sand. And the 4x4 ATV's are ALOT of fun when it is wet/muddy out, as you mention. Boggin on a big 4x4 wheeler is just the ticket. Although, going out on the shee and blastin a few holes is fun too. Although much more messier. I had to hose off many times after races because it was horrible. And I think the machine weighs about 50 more lbs. afterward. Enjoy the trip!!

I have an m6x1, not a .75 I can order one in, and have it here by tomorrow, and get it to you by Wednesday. If this is the way you want to go, let me know. Or, I see that dajogejr can help you out as well. Probably quicker than I can at this point. I would go that route. But, if you want me to get it out to you, let me know and I will order one in....

Bob, you are still comparing single cylinder bikes. This is a different animal. i have ridden my bike on numerous scrambles, and other races. A lightened flywheel utilizes the banshee's engine much better than a stock flywheel. The only thing that could help you on a rocky rutted wet hillclimb would be a four stroke. Which puts you in a different ball game all together. I still stand by a lightened flywheel in ay condition. I have tested it time and time again. Flywheels are very simple to change on the fly, and I have done just that. With a 2-1 pipe, (which I have run, personally, on my bike) and a lightened flywheel, the banshee is a great woods bike. The pipe puts the powerband where you want it, and the lightened flywheel lets you tap the power on demand. If your worried about the rocky uphill, ride it a gear high. Taller gearing also helps. As mentioned previously, a shorter swingarm helps out immensely in the traction department. Have a great ime at Dumont. I aspire to make it out to that coast, at least someday...

If yo program the Dyna with advance, yes, you will run into problems if you don't run higher octane fuel.

I don't remember if you don't line up the pressure plate properly if you get no clutch engagement, or no clutch disengagement. Now, is the ball and rod in tact, seperated, and inside the input shaft? And the arrow adjustment should have been done before you put the side case back on. If you still have the cover off, the adjuster is located in the center of the pressure plate. This is how you line up the arrows. Loosen the locknut, and adjust the center post.

Hell no!!! But, it would start easier....

You are guessing correct. When looking at the crank from the end, it should offset to the left. The flywheel should be "indexed" forward.

If I got one at the shop, I will send it to you. PM me your address.

www.mxsouth.com

Stop trying to apply physics to lightening the flywheel of a banshee. Everyone that tries to pitch this "theory" has NEVER tried a lightened flywheel on their bike. I am willing to to bet that this is the case here. Trouble here is, you can'tthink about this one too much. There is a very valid argument on this. In the tractability department. You see, the throttle response gained from this mod, heavily outweighs ANY negative effects in which a theory of physics applies in this case. If you are having traction problems in the dirt, run a shorter swingarm. This will solve the traction problem. Tried and true. Anyone that runs a shorter swinger will attest to this. Also, anyone that runs a lightened flywheel, (Remember, I said anyone who actually runs one on their bike) aside from a few select few individuals, will attest to the fact that the gained throttle response, from the lightened flywheel is much more desireable than a stock weighted one. I am stressing ot think of ANYONE who has run a heavier flywheel on their bike. Because if your physics theories were in any way applicable to this, than I would think every XC/MX/hare scramble rider in the country would be running a heavier flywheel. But, they simply are not. I have run the exact same race on a stock weight flywheel, and I have run it on a lightened flywheel. I can honestly say, that the lightened flywheel gave me less fatigue, and faster lap times in the hare scrambles in which I have run. I have tested it. Being able to utilize more of the bike's power, and opening up the powerband is a very heartwarming feeling. And it brings a smile to my face every time I crack the throttle. I can recall numerous times that people have taken my bike for a spin. They always come back smiling about the throttle response. I would put my bike's throttle response up against a single carbed bike. Quite a few people at the last Coal Fest rode my bike and were amazed at the response and rideability of my bike. As a matter of fact, I cam home with a couple flywheels to lighten for folks. I suggest that any disbeliever try it. You have nothing to lose. Forget the physics nonsense, and go riding.

That would be the wrong tap. Metric taps give the thread count in terms of "pitch". in this case, the pitch is .75 MM. That means, that from the peak of one thread, to the peak of the next thread is .75 MM. The 6 is the diameter of the screw that will fit in the hole. Or an "M6". So, M6 x .75MM would be the correct tap. On american taps and threading equipment, we use what's called a threads per inch scale. So a 1/4"-20 would be a 1/4" diameter, and 20 threads per inch. For your application here, Do not use a M6 x 1 tap, or it will be the wrong thread. a 13/64" drill bit would be .203" diameter, and it will be just fine to use. Make sure you use oil on the tap. And make sure you use the correct tap.