boonman

Happy belated Ron!! I hope it was good!!

You guys are nuts.....

Even if you put the single carb system on, you will still have to unplug the TORS system to do it. SO, why go through all the trouble of changing the carb system to find out if the TORS is the problem? Just unplug the module. Then order yourself up a TORS removal kit. It gives you new carb tops, and an idle kit. One of the best few dollars spent for stock carbs....

If you cover it in Chevy stickers, at least noone will want to steal it. I'll stack my Ford up to any Chevy, any day of the week. And we'll see where it goes from there. As for the front end woes, you have to track down the problem. You could have a radius arm problem, tie rod(s), ball joints, any combination of them, or a steering box. I am thinking I would start out with having a buddy get int he truck, and turn the wheel about a half a turn, back and forth, kind of slowly. Observe all components involved. (everything mentioned above) and see what doesn't look right. A tie rod end can have play side to side, or up and down. A ball joint, same thing. For those, you can jack up either side, and grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock position(s). Give the tire shakes, (pulling out with one hand, and pushing in with the other, alternating the two, and feeling for play.) For the tie rods, just have a look see. Steering box, same thing. Also, the driver side beam has been known to crack under the spring perch. Check that you have not experienced this. It is more prone on Northern trucks, especially with a plow, but has been seen other places.

With 30 MM carbs, I would not start at a 300 main. If you had stock carbs, I would start there. I would get rid of the reed spacers, unless you need them for spacing the carbs out to clear the clutch lever. WHat kind of Amsoil are you using? Hopefully not the 50 or 100:1 stuff. Re the reeds in tact, and functioning properly? I know you stated they were brand new, but I have had a bad set of reeds right off the shelf. Have you tested the engine for an air leak? (a leakdown test) If you haven't, I would definitely do this. That may be the problem. It will make jetting impossible.

You could try a carbide bit, but, you will break that off from using a hand drill anyways. An EDM would work splendidly. A machine shop should fix you right up with their preferred method of removal. This sort of thing happens more often than you think on pieces. I just love getting broken taps out. They're fun...

I cut a set for someone, and I remember it sucking very badly. I also remember that I did not charge nearly enough. It ended up costing me $$ to do it in the end. But oh well. If you find someone to do it, I would think $175 would be a fair price. There's alot of work involved. Although, with a CNC machine, it may not be too bad. The gears are just harder than a Bull's prick...

Do not be afraid to hog material off the side of them carbs. You almost cannot remove too much material. Otherwise, your bike won't idle, and you will have to go piss INTO the wind...

Sounds stupid, but be sure to check that the coil is grounded good against the frame. Also, I hada problem for a little bit exhibiting the exact problems you describe when my primary ignition wires, (the orange and black wires on the coil) were loose on the connections. I had to take pliers and crimp them a little to get them to fit properly, and hold snugly.

Sorry for the delay on replying here. I have been on a hockey tournament. Anyways, Are you sure your shift shaft is adjusted to spec? This can cause problem, as will a worn shift shaft. The real only way that the shift star would hang up is if there were flat spots. I assure you that there are not. I turn them on a lathe, so they are all perfectly the same radius. The star is not the problem. I believe you have some other difficulties. The adjuster has been known to wear out. (the eccentric cam that adjusts the "at rest" position of the shift shaft) I would start there. They are fairly cheap, and an excellent place to start. I have had a couple cases where individuals thought the star was to blame for some difficulties, but not one case yet where it has been the cause. Keep in mind, I do have a money back guarantee on all my work. Noone has ever had to use it though... Keep me/us posted on the outcome of this... Thanks!!

I wasu naware of a couple things. One, that they still make Artifacts... And two, that there were soo many fans of them on this site. I have an XC 600. Phenominal sled. SMokes alot of others out there, and it's bone stock. I laugh uncontrollably at times for all the fools that pipe their sled, and tell me how it rocks. But, the fact of the matter is that on the trails, keep it quiet, and reliable, and you will be alot farther ahead on whatever you buy. Piping a sled is useless. Pretty much always has been. For trail use. If you are going to race it, that's a different story. Now, Yammy has been behind the game for a number of years in the sled department. Sad to say. They just follow everywhere they go. The new Rev's, (well, they have been out a few years now...) are a great riding sled. Very comfy, and a helluvalot of suspension under them. But, my guess is that you aren't going to afford something of that vintage. In the 200 and under model year market, I would shoot for something in the price range. You need to do some serious soul searching and decide what it is that you want from the sled. If you want to smoke people in the trails, (and I'm not talking about the roads they have in Canada and call them trails) get a smaller sled. A 600 or under. I rode a 500 for a number of years that was simply untouchable. It was a '96 Indy. If you want to smoke people on the grudge drag strip, go for a 700-800 range. But, in that model year, they are gas hogs. I myself, like to watch at the local "touch off" spot. My sled has won alot more times than it has lost. And to alot larger Iron. Clutching will make the world of difference. I have a shelf full of Helix's and primary weights. There is a setup for draggin, and there is a setup for trail ridin. Much like a banshee. Stick a dragger in the trail, and watch the fun unfold. Much the same way, for the "vintage" sled years you are gunnin' for. The larger iron, isn't as controllable in the tight trails. I would either go Polaris, or Ski-Doo. (in that order) If you buy a Polaris, make sure you get an Arctic Cat cover for it. That way noone will want to steal it.

Did this bike's clutch work on the initial fireup? Like when you put it in first gear, did the clutch work then? And then suddenly give out? Or did it not work from the get go? If it didn't work from the get go, you may have forgotten the ball bearing.

That is tough turning the monitor upside down to see the pic...

I am thinking the TORS is messed up, if it's still on the bike. otherwise, you unplugged something while doing the head change. Or perhaps bumped a connection?

My truck runs about 375-400 horsies and about 800 lb./ft. of torque, and I can run it on vegetable oil. It runs pretty good on #2 diesel, but oh well. Food for thought, just because something comes with a big block doesn't mean it's stout.... Economy is in the mindset here, and I think a Toyota is a good start. I loved my '82. Used to beat the balls off of it. It loved every minute of it. In the end however, it was burning about a quart of oil every 120 miles. And I still sold it for $700.

My truck of choice is a Powerstroke Ford. Got one and love it. But, for a first, reliable truck that you don't have to dick with, a Toyota is a wise choice. Plenty of power to haul a small landscape trailer. My Ford is Simply awesome, but probably a little out of the price range... I wouldn't go with a Chevy. If you do go with a Ford, do NOT get a 90ish F-250 with the Twin I-beam front end. It's junk. You have to make a call here. Either go one ton, (full size) and plan ahead for your lanscape/mowing business or go with a compact pickup. They perform the same as a 1/2 ton and do the same job.

Sounds like there is a problem with the clamping of the tube itself. Got any pics of it?

Logging in as the admin would be the key here.

Wouldn't hurt at thing if you put the exhaust on before guages. Just make sure that before you put any more fuel to the engine, have some guages. I suggest replacing the intake all together. The factory setup is like a banshee's factory setup. It is known to leak. If you are worried about dust, check out a factory Ford AIS (severe service) intake. They seal very well. I love my AFE intake. And I wouldn't personally run anything less than a pro-guard 7 filter. Works fantastic. And no matter what filter setup you run, its' gonna clog with dust if you drive in dusty conditions. The engine has to get air from somewhere.

You need to hold the flywheel still, and torque the nut to 60 lb./ft. of torque with an accurate, and reliable torque wrench. Not the China Piecs of shit you find at Wal-Mart. A good wrench. If the flywheel doesn't come loose, it won't break the key..

Best of luck my man. Pull through it, you'll be ridin soon!!!

Sredish on the guages for sure. The man has got the hookup. On the Hypetech programmer, I am not really impressed with any of the programmers. Very bad shifting, and below par power. To get the good shit, you need a chip. BUT, this will void your warranty if you aren't "tight" with the dealer's service department. I have and love TS performance chips. There are others out there, but TS is the only name in the game with a 6 stage flip. Except for Banks' 6 gun. But Banks is a proven, "idiot-proof" setup. Yo can pound the truck all day long, without fear of ruining the engine. But there are other, cheaper and usually more effective ways to make power for your diesel powered pickup truck. My truck, with just minimal mods will flat out embarass alot of vehicles on the road, and even do it loaded. I race people all the time with my landscape trailer on. EVen the equipment trailer I am not afraid to line up with. Paying attention to the guages is esential. I remember that my truck ran hotter stock than it does modded. I could easily peg 1200 deg. F on the EGT with stock componentry. I established a baseline on the truck, while it was stock, so I could base any changes to it, and see how it performed. I kind of guinea pig my truck for a few things. if you must use a programmer, I suggest an Edge Evolution. Or the new Juice, also from Edge. I don't like any of the other programmers, although second choice would go to the Predator programmer. IMHO. Exhaust, Anything you get will be fine. It's not like a 2 stroke. As long as it is 4" from the turbo outlet to the back of the truck, go for it. I personally am runing an MBRP exhaust, and the fit and finish is superb. Very easy to install. My intake is an Air Flow Engineering (AFE) stage II with a Pro-Guard 7 filter. I love it. I have alot of stuff mounted to the intake as well. Solenoids, an air compressor, relays, it provides a nice place for all of this. This is on a Powerstroke. ON the other engines, I am not too familiar with. Except the manual pumped Cummins 12 valves. Which is a splendid engine. Very easy to mod with fuel plates, and pressures. On your powerstroke, be aware that opening up the intake and exhaust leaves you prone to turbo surge and chatter with the stock turbo and compressor wheel. You will need to change these if you haul anything. Mod the hell out of it. Your fuel mileage won't suffer a bit, and you'll have all kinds of crazy power.

If you tighten down the flywheel properly, you will not have a problem. It won't shear because of the lightened flywheel.

If it is put together, I will go. I had a blast. Even if it did rain for ever. And I still ain't met Nyuk..... I heard he was "in and out" of there at the last one. I could be wrong though, he may not have even made an appearance. I will have to get ahold of Meat, and see what's up perhaps..

Well, the cost would be quite considerable. Cinsidering that the entire engine would have to be changed. You cannot "add" a "Jake" brake. They are factory equipped, and due to their inherent design, they cannot be added to any engine originally not designed to have one. It has been explained pretty good here. As the engine is compressing the air mixture, (when the jake is on)at or near TDC, the exhaust valve opens, and dumps the air. So, the engine is working to compress the air, and then it is all let out. Now, if you didn't have a Jake, all the air that was compressed, would now be expanding on the down stroke, after the compression stroke, and actually "help" the engine spin over a little easier because it would be pushing back down on the piston. Which, being a diesel engine, it has an unrestricted air intake, and the engine could just freewheel. In theory. We had a Loooooong discussion about engine braking a while ago. An exhaust brake as mentioned, is the butterfly valve. It works, as it loads the engine with backpressure, and backs up all the air that the engine is compressing and sending out the exhaust. 2 different animals, both with the same end goal in mind. Saving brakes, and using the engine to slow you down.