lowriderb

non break the bank wheels ive seen other people run.. rears: http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...o#vehicleSelect those also have a front wheel type that will match them..

are you just wanting tires for your stock rims or are you wanting spindle mounts with street tires? for the front? alot of people use scooter tires.. the rears depends on what you want to spend, american racers or hoosiers are nice, goodyear also sells slicks, there are other brands for rear tires..

have you gotten to start your bike yet?

if your budget is 12k then you can put together a decent sized bike, or purchase one that is already built from someone. i would start with an idea of what size motor you want to build because that will determine what size chassis your ganna need, i would personally go bigger than a 4mm cub for an all out drag bike just cause the parts you will be buying will be able to be used for different motors, i.e. clutch basket with straight cut gears.. ect.. i personally like the twister cylinders cause the sleeves in them for rebuild time.. the cheetah's are another very good choice as well. the la sleeve and t-rex cylinders are still available but will take more work to make run like the others. (that is all my opinion) choose what size motor your wanting to run first, for reliablilty of them in the stock cases i went with a 10mm, 18mm cranks have been squeezed into stock cases but its not as reliable as having billet cases.. so lets look at the parts you can shop for now and when you decide what size motor you can decide what direction you want to with..as well as the override you want it cut to.. you can look for these parts now if your ready.. clutch basket with straight cuts. 700 lockup with cover, 400 axle i would recommend a jj and a 750 radiator (if not running stock like a torchworks rad or something) 500 spindle mount front wheels (most chassis with have a 5/8ths spindle) 500 ignition (pvl or stock/modified) 400 once you decide what size motor you want to go with you will need to get crank 500-1600 top end 1400-2500 pipes 600 carbs filters 600 trans cut (i would suggest getting a billet 2nd just to keep it reliable with bigger motors) 375/600 chassis (for a drag only track/smooth surface bike get a rigid) which will be made for the size motor and rider 3500 rear tires 600 sprockets 100 depending on how you shop around you can get deals on stuff, it can save you plenty on parts so you can spend it elsewhere.. these are round about prices that some may have changed and some may have not.. -

i would guess since the stock carbs are probably choking you down a good bit, depending on the dyno too.. i would guess on a good tune you would probably be seeing about 55-60 just guessing..

http://www.jjandaracing.com/ your looking for the "other atv stuff" (on the left) then look at the "ignition timing assembly" (looks like a dial indicator with a purple threaded part on it)... that is the easiest way to set your timing with a pvl for a banshee.. your probably going to set it about .070 before tdc if i remember right..

if your only wanting to add a 5th gear to the override part of the trans you dont have to sell your 1-4 to do it.. only the gear for 5th has to be cut and the drum cut for 5th also..

mine was weighed in at 261 with a full tank of fuel (about 1 1/5 gal.) and my helmet sitting on the seat, ready to ride.

ive seen them last and ive seen them break, i guess it would depend on that specific gear.. i ride in sand only also at 225lbs. with my 10mm.. but i went with a billet 2nd gear just to make damn sure i wont have any kinds of problems with it at all.. i also have straight cuts (overdriven) with the hinson basket (with springs), with 14/42 gears and 25in 16 extremes. on the spray i may end up needing a 15 up front. with that motor i had my doubts about the weak 2nd gear so i did the next best thing.. :biggrin:

you can start in second, you just got to remember that 2nd gear in the banshee's are the weakest gears and that one can and will break with those kinds of shocks to it..

you would be able to tell how hard it is to shift from your starting gear to your final gear to see if you have a 1-4 (neutral in stock position) would be easy you would have to clutch 5th and 6th, 1-5 (neutral in stock postion) will have 6th off the shaft, launch in first. 2-5 (no 1st or 6th gear) neutral could be considered down. 1-5 with neutral down would have 6th off the shaft.. 1-6th would have it there (mostly used for asphalt racing). 2-5 with 1st gear would have 6th out, launch in 2nd like wfo said, you dont want to let the motor slow you down, pretty much when you are slowing down you want to come to a stop get into your lowest gear then start going again.. the duneable overrides are supposed to be able to let you down shift, but not engine break.

alot of the builders that build frames will start from scratch and have their own jigs they like to follow.. a stock frame cut and extended is one way to do it if you only want to mess with the front end geometry and not the cradle for the motor.. for a flat drag bike i would look into getting a full rigid chassis, if you go out and hillshoot/dune drag look into a suspended one.. the difference in the chassis will come in when you decide what size motor your planning to go with..

the forum's have changed for this race, now it will be grudge racing all around.. no reall classes.. there will be lights to start and see if someone red lights.. beyond that race who you want.. i will be leaving out on thursday afternoon and most of my group will be up there about the same time or on wednesday..

some dyno's have been known to show really optimistic numbers.. i have seen one dyno in particular that was set where ds's showed more than 100hp on motor.. that same dyno showing a 14mm cub only showed 86hp and a 16mm cheetah showed 90 hp.. that being said the banshee's (both 3.80 bikes easily) should deffintily not have ever beaten the ds (which never broke 4.0's) that is part of the settings on the computer running the dyno's that can do that.. a few others show high numbers..

im with you on that.. the only thing i dont like about tracks is the wait.. you stand around waiting.. then you make a pass.. wait some more.. make a pass and wait some more..lol

i brought up dyno numbers and that bikes were both done on the same dyno, same day. i also said that they are just tuning tools which doesnt mean anything, but it does carry over to the track on how a bike will perform.. the dyno they were ran on is a very stingy land and sea..

every dyno is different though, i could take my bike to three different ones and get three different power numbers.. you can also change the settings on them and make ds 650's say they make more than 100hp and 14mm dm's make less than that.. does it make the ds faster????? if bigger wasnt always better then why are people building triples? lol

ive seen 4mm's and 10mm's on the dyno, the power in the 10mm's are much more given the same mods... ive seen a 10mm cub hit in the low 120's without the spray, and one 4mm cub hit 109 without spray.. on the same dyno same day.. the torque numbers were much better on the 10mm being in the mid high 60's with the 4mm in the high 50's in torque.. they both had pretty much the same set ups.. 68mm bores, cpi pipes, 2-5 overrides, lockups, pvl's ect.. they both had the bottle but neither were dyno'd on it.. dyno numbers are just for say so, but they do tranfer to how a bike will perform on the track and that i havent seen either of those bikes show up at the same time to the same places.. the seat of the pants dyno.. you may not notice the differences.. but then again with the bigger motor you can turn more tire and gearing resulting in a time on a track which will end up being faster the next thing would be to come down to the riders..

great, ill be heading out there probably on that thursday afternoon..

here's the info that was posted up on planetsand about it.. anyone else ganna be coming out? Catahoula Recreation in Sicily Island, La. March 6th & 7th Test & Tune 10am til noon each day. ($10 Per Bike) Drivers meeting at 1pm each day. Races start at 2pm each day. ($20 Per Class) 100% Payback In All Classes (70/30 Split) Classes: Friday---Limited Classes--Alky and Gas Only! 1) 4x4 Utility 2) Dune Drag (See Requirements Below) 3) 450-Based 4-Stroke OEM Chassis (0-370cc 2-Stroke) 4) 650-Based 4-Stroke OEM Chassis (371cc-up 2-Stroke) 5) Single Cylinder Drag Chassis 6) Twin Cylinder 0-400cc 7) Twin Cylinder 401cc-up Saturday---Unlimited--Run What Ya Brung and Hope Ya Brought Enough!!! 1) 4x4 Utility 2) Dune Drag (See Requirements Below) 3) Single Cylinder OEM Chassis 4) Single Cylinder Drag Chassis 5) Twin Cylinder 0-400cc 6) Twin Cylinder 401cc-up OEM Chassis: Must Retain Original Main Frame Rails In Which The Swingarm, A-arms & Subframe Attach. Dune Drag Class: 4-Stroke; Maximum +6 Swingarm; No Wheelie Bar; No Override Tranny; No Struts; OEM Chassis

no chance at putting the tripple motor back into it?

with a lock up and no trans cut it will be hard to pull the clutch in to shift when your riding all out.. if its a dune only bike and you dont want to go with an override, just put some heavy springs on there and keep it adjusted right.. or if you only have a limited budget you could just get an override (if you dont mind dune riding with that).. if you start going into more dragging then just pick you up a lock up..

in oklahoma it went in the 3.70's with a different rider, i didnt get any good times on it at planetsand cause the clutches were shot but it mph'd 82 or so..

yep and possibly.. this is the bike i would have been on..

no i dont ride with top secret my name is Brennon