lowriderb

i wouldnt run a 2 into 1 carb set up if it were given to me.. the stock carbs are too small for the stock motor (52mm total carb area), and then you run one carb at 35mm's.. in short loss in top end speed and rpm.. that is why when you have an efficiently set up motor it requires a bigger carb set up for a n/a motor.. if you wanted bottom end then you should have bought a 4 stroke and gone slow.. banshee's are known for and made to scream..

it all depends on what the person cutting the cylinders classifies as a dune port.. some builders go even farther to ask rider weight to adjust the port work to be rider specific.. round about guess you would probably lose 10 or more psi of static compression pretty easily..

they'll usually get tight before they go all the way through.. if you want to make sure they arent going to leak or anything you could us some sort of silicone or something on them as well..what they do is block the water jacket.. the last two cubs that ive had to put on also needed the stud extender stud holes on the cylidners opened up a little more as well..

threebond (1117 i think), or hondabond work the same.. your looking for the semi drying sealant..

sounds like somethings broke in the top end.. pull the jugs off and see what is going on.. when you pull them off check to see if the lower rod bearings are intact as well...

youd bend the shift fork the whole trans wont be shot.. tipically the 6th gear is taken out completely with the 1-5's...the pin for 6th would be cut off the shift star as well.. youll have to change the drum, and put a spring (which should be with the trans when you get it back) on the 1st gear side between the sift fork and case.. the forks stay the same (stockers if in good condition), the racks should be drop in.. if you follow bigred's directions DONT PUT ANYTHING BETWEEN THE RODS TO STOP THE CRANK FROM ROTATING..

plug both cylinders and set up one intake for the pressure and see what it does..

if only one cylinder is firing then that could possibly be a broken reed on that side, broken piston, very fouled spark plug, spark plug wire off or broken, air leak, bad coil, bad groun on the cdi, bad cdi.. the most common problem is the broken reed, or spark plug issue..

what temp was it last time you jetted your bike, and what is the temp at now? have you ever changed the oring in the head pipe, as well as the condition of the head pipe/stinger clamp? air filter connection to the carbs? running low on gas with stock carbs? broken reeds wont make the bike rev rather just bog usually..

can you be a little more specific as to what your doing when you cover the pipe, and where does it seem like the air is coming from? what pipes do you have? when were they taken part last?

i know jeff (thebom) and scott (choosetolose) as well.. and ive met crazy c in misouri.. first crazy c's banshee is not 150lbs.. theres almost no way you could safely get it down to that weight without some serious safety questions.. or frame strength issues.. jeff's bike is an 830 with nitrous, weighing in right around 300lbs on the suspended chassis.. scott's bike is a half chassis wieghing in right in the 315 or so range as well.. both hp research (rigid) and jeff's (suspended) bikes went into the sub 4's, and scott's (suspended) is now hunting sub 4's last i talked to jeff his ds hit into the 120+ hp range on the spray, and scott's was in mid teens.. i honestly dont think a ported banshee would hang any of these 3 bikes..

your pretty much reffering to the same crank.. the 4mm stroke is basically where the pins the lower part of the rods are moved out from center 2mm's (2 up and 2 down= 4mm total stroke added).. the longer rods are 115mm rods, short rods would be stock 110mm's.. the most common crank to get would be a 4mm long rod.. you will get a little longer life out of the long rod motor.. as well if you already run the long rod if you were to swap to a cub later on it would be just a cylinder swap.. dont, do NOT, put an extention through the connecting rods to get the nut on either side loose from the crank.. i would highly suggest getting a clymers manual to look through for at least to have so you can check and reset specs in and on your motor...

right now your running ported stock cylinders right? do you know what the durations are on the jugs now? depending on that the stock cylinders could still be cut to run the 4mm crank with no issues, but that would need to be established when your setting the motor up wether or not the current stock cylinders could still be used.. the 4mm parts you would need would be, crank, 795 pistons, cut domes, crank seals, case sealant (yamabond, hondabond or threebond which ever you would rather use).. the bearings should come on the new crank (aftermarket cranks done have pins in the bearing races like the stockers do). that is for a set up without the spacer.. if your cylinders are ported call them and ask them what durations they cut into them.. duration numbers arent trade secrets so if they ask just explain to them your trying to find them out so you can add a stroker to it.. if you are currently running the mx cylinders in your sig, then there should be enough material still there to accomodate the stroke with the new port work to run correctly.. doing it all at once would be the best that way if your going to do it.. setting up that stock cylinder motor should run right around 1200 give or take a little bit depending... figure around 450 for the crank, 450 +- for the port work, 100 or so for domes (for a cool head, or possibly stock head cut for the stroke), 150-170 for pistons and gaskets, 25-30 for crank seals.. the prices im talking about are just guestimates.. ive ran a 4mm stock cylinder and thats about what it costed me give or take a little bit.. of course you would also want to run carbs/filters and pipes that will work with the setup if you dont already have what you are wanting to build the motor for..

milling and rechambering the head vs a milled head: the milled and rechambered head or cool head will not run any hotter than a milled head.. 87 octane... apparently someone cant read: ALL sport bikes REQUIRE at minimum premium pump fuels! having port work: get it.. you wont regret it once your bike is set up and tuned.. lighter flywheels: like was said, your power band will hit and be a little more snappy, as far as spidering out.. i doubt it.. more or less if its going to break it will break on the face of the flywheel between the holes. tell your nascar fan that your dealing with that he doesnt know what he's talking about seeing how he doesnt know much of anything about performance...

with out using a spacer plate youd need different offset pistons in order to keep the rings from pop out of the jugs.. as well the domes would have to be recessed in order to allow for the piston to run into a positive deck height.. for the 68.5 bore that would be a blaster piston bore size but at what offset is the question.. as well the port work would have to be changed to allow for the change in stroke..

thats a caracal.. its aprox 1297cc's for the twin and somewhere in the 1800 range for the tripple.. the average joe cant get them without getting in touch with calvin for approval first (pretty much builders can only put them together for possibly a customer) k&t isnt the only builder that can build one.. one of the first to have it done (at least to the point it was at the ps races).. as far as i know there are/is 5 of them being built.. or at least there are parts for that many ready.. the cost is pretty spendy too.. your looking into some big bucks to get the parts only for it.. put it this way its like 2500 or so for the trans alone.. then you still need the crank, top end, cases, carbs (650 each), pipes, ect... you should expect in the 15k range at the least for the motor.. at least thats what i was told. then youve got to consider the chassis, around 1k for the rear wheels isnt unheard of.. but then again they are only 26in 14paddle kevlar rippers (12x12 rims) there are also rumors of one beign dyno'd in the 190's hp range, and a lots of nitrous can be sprayed as long as you get a progressive nitrous controller, other wise it will just blow the tires away off the line.. :ohmy: p.s. there are supposed to be different versions of that motor going into production as well.. i cant remember the third one but its supposed to go from semitar, _______, and the caracal.. then going to tripples..

theres no special "alcohol throttle cable" for carbs, there are only throttle cables.. if you havent been running these carbs yet, i would get a terry cable and be done.. the motion pro cables you could get may end up needing the longer adjusments for the carb tops.. either one you get make sure your carbs are in sinc and open fully (where the slide is completly out of the way of the neck of the carbs) either which cable you get you can pick them up from a veriety of venders or pretty much any builder you could name can get it for you in the 50-70 range..

i know exactly what your saying.. now though the 4mm cubs are running pretty hard once people spend just a little bit of time on them making them right.. when you tell someone youve got a 10mm they are like "oh ok" if you were to tell them you have a 14mm they are a little more inclinde to look at you closely..

if youve been running these carbs already and they open up to wot then you dont need a different cable.. if havent ran them yet i would suggest getting a terry cable..

dont worry there are more big motors being built by the little guys in racing now than ever before...

compared to a stock stroke motor its going to pull like a train... and pull all the way till you let off... learning on a 16mm as well.. i think i would learn everything you could with the smaller motors before jumping into something that size, that way if you have to do anything you will know how to fix it already.

matching them makes use of the whole flow area, which should net you a few ponies... every little bit adds up to alot..

what size tires and number paddles? what cylinders, what stroke? what style swing arm (drag, dune/mx), 6 or 8 over? what size motor are you looking to build? whats your budget?

is there anyone going out to the track over in baton rouge tomorrow afternoon? Craig is going to be out there with the "lil' blasty that could" again..lol

a friend of mine is putting together a 7mm cub for the clash.. so it should be out there for its first time out..