lowriderb

you should be able to run either without an issue, they are pretty much the same.. if youve got a timing plate why not set it to 4.5..lol be sure that your running premium fuel at the least.. and depending on the compression (if you go higher later) you may have to mix it..

theres always the possibility that you could pull a stud out with any head or set up.. but the noss machine head and trinity heads both use the stock studs.. so no reason to pull them out.. its not his fault everything trinity sells is better than anything you can buy from somewhere else.. he's just being a salesman..

the intakes dont show the rest of the port work.. ill talk to craig tomorrow about it and see what he would give for an idea.. also so others will know.. the intakes on the banshee's arent the bottle necks so opening them up to monster proportions isnt needed.. that will slow down the fuel charge with them being huge if your not needing the motor to flow that much what do you do? try out some 360's first and work your way down from there.. if it ends up being fat then its always much better than being lean..

have you tried this as well? when mine did it it would rev fine with no load on the motor, but as soon as you tried running it moving anywhere it was a no go situation.. your issue may be more severe with the air lock on the tank than mine was..

i may know someone that would be willing to trade.. pm me with some pics and info..

http://www.cpcustoms.com/videos/blaster_vids/MOV00602.MPG http://www.cpcustoms.com/videos/blaster_vids/MOV00601.MPG heres a blaster that will beat the 700's consistantly.. there is a banshee in there too.. does this answer the question..

with turbos you usually wont see much if any boost without a load on the motor.. revving it up you will probably only see it go up to atmospheric pressure (0 on the boost gauge, no longer under a vacuum but not under boost yet).. i understand how you feel not wanting something to look bad that youve worked your ass off on.. what turbo did you use? is it intercooled as well? how much boost are you looking to run? give us something to work on man..lol

no telling.. pics of portwork does not tell you anything about the port work or layout.. possibly start out with around a 360 or so and work your way down or up after you get a plug chop..

better yet how about some pics

the stock length studs should fit the noss machine head unless its possibly one of the very first designs out if i remember right.. im sure youve looked at it as well, but how about the reeds are they in check? not flexed too far out as well or broken or just cracked?.. i know a friend of mine had one of his reeds blown out (v force) and it would rev fine without a load on the motor but when moving it wouldnt pull up to get to the power band.. since you have a second "known" working cdi to spare you could try that out and see if it clears up the problem, while your at it as well you could pull out the ohm meter and make sure all the wires are still connected (no breaks ect..) how is your compression as well? im sure that youve possibly checked it buy now, but its always something you want to know.. also do you have clear fuel lines? if not, change them to something you can see through and see if your getting a flow from the gas tank.. i started out my last riding trip with that problem and couldnt understand why i wasnt getting it to run (just cutting out at about 1/2 throttle) tried making a pass and looked down at the fuel lines and bam mt.. i pulled the ball bearings out of the cap so there is no check valve in there anymore and that worked..

are you running the stock head still? the first and last time i had my 4mm cub out with a stock head on it it was drinking water.. and blowing them out of 3 of the studs as well.. pulled the head off the head gasket is letting water passed (paint was missing from a water jacket to the combustion chamber.. also what have you done with the tors crap? if its a tors case then it wouldnt let you rev at idle though.. what kind of air filter set up are you running and do you think thats efficient?

oh yeah, the cub motors like to breathe as ive said in other posts, the pipes are going to limit you very much with that motor as well.. at this point im running or have ran 35mm pwk's (gas) and 38mm tm's (alcohol) and it did better with the bigger carbs even before i converted them.. after this next set up is ran with my bike i am going to look to get some 41's and see if there will be a difference with those.. . right now though im having a 5th gear cut for the override and a chassis is going to be built for the motor.. (4mm cub)

that stock carbs are being out flowed by the motor.. so basicly the carbs are much much too small to supply the motor, or you jetting is too lean, ive had to run 440's with a stock cylinder motor with the stock carbs.. its not the number of the jet you need to look at just what the motor needs to do anything.. best idea so far would be scrap the stockers and go with some larger carbs..

well when you guys talk about a noticeable difference ask him what he does for the durations like the exhaust, transfers, and blow down.. tipical durations your ganna hear are like 196-198 and around 128 or so for the trans.. bd would be around 30* range..

for a slow process build up get things you can use right away.. like a timing plate, head milled and rechambered, air filters, reeds/cages ect.. then once youve got the basic things that you will keep through out the different stages (pipes and such as listed) then you can start picking out your options to go into the motor.. if your going to stay with a stock stroke, port work or different cylinders (depending on the budget your working with), get the crank trued and welded for reliability. if your going to a stroker of any sort make a plan on which size your wanting to begin with then built that motor.. its very hard to build a strong 350 then switch to go to a stroker or something without having to rebuy parts you only needed for the smaler motor..

oh ok then i must be thinking of the trinity heads that only have the o rings on the domes, and between the water jackets.. you could also pickup a used head in decent to good condition for around 120-160 bucks tipically.. and if you can get away with pulling the studs (if thats something that makes someone nervouse) i would deffinitly go with a nossmachine head instead..

just like wicked said the only difference between the two heads is the studs and the pd head has o rings that go on each stud.. internally they use the same domes ect..

race: your deffinitly one of the few that ive heard of that hasnt broken any of the carbon reeds from vforce..

it sounds like a dune bike, you could possibly go with a 6 over, for the shortest.. and then it will launch with you having to lean forward.. either way you go when you drag youve got to shift your weight around in order to get the bike to react the best so go with what your comfortable with the most.. also if you decide to keep the 10 i would get more tire or regear it to spin those harder out of the hole.

also check the reeds..

like someone else said have they checked the pickup clearance? or that it had good connections between the stator and coil?

could there possibly be two different size jets in each carb? mains, pilots and needles are exactly the same?

you also have 2x's the pain in the ass because of peddles breaking or just fracturing.. but hey, some of the fastest bikes ive seen didnt run pvl's or vforce reeds.. they ran the stock units just modified for the bike..timing plate, ported cages ect..

since youve changed plugs a few times what did you have them gapped at?? because with my bike it doesnt like to have more than about .020's gap (alcohol) and on gas it always liked to be close as well, within .026''s... if your just taking the plugs out of the box and putting them in that could be your problem as well.. (which would go under the ignition subject), since the plugs would come from the manufacturer with a little bit different gap in them..

tipically when you see a price for porting from companies i.e. 600 its usually assumed that your going to get both cylinders ported.. since the banshee motors are assumed it has 2 cylinders on it the price is listed for both.. it just sounded funny that it would have to be stated that the portwork was for both cylinders, since ive never seen the prices listed for separate.. wasnt trying to step on your toes or anything, just came across funny to me..