12 0 Clock P I M P

Make sure the cable is run the proper way and that its held on its mount on top of the case net to the pusher....sounds like the cable is disengaging it but not allowing it to spring back........make sure your spring on your pusher is on to pull that cable back.....

I just took a engine apart that had a bad one........IT would not come out.......I had to split the cases and dremel the pusher because the rod had gouged the pusher to the point of being deformed......so thats one sign......it wont turn or come out...

X2 on your intakes......get some nice new ones.....should idle....cracked boots will cause all sorts of running issues LEAN!!! ISSUES!!!!

Nothing wrong with J's word on the street is they wear through bushings faster than A's but a slight difference But good luck trying to bend them though....they are just as tough As mentioned they have a diff caliper design ......

yea I got my girl one....she barely gets out of second gear or even into the pipe...but she will learn.......

SO u have your cover off and your installing the kicker again...........the shaft slides into its hole......the little circle clip (like a bent paper clip) goes into the half moon or U shape part of the case there to the left of where the shaft is.........the steel square tab like piece offset on the shaft is the stop........that must hit the case area right under, slightly right to wear that U is.......this will prevent the kicker from moving forward and allowing the spring to hop off its resting tab.... That clip and to where that stop will be at is roughly a 45 degree angle......just make sure the spring has the tension to rebound When installed correctly the spring will have enough tension to rebound the kicker and it will stop still with a slight pressure on that stop tab to prevent the kicker from moving past that stop and causing the spring to come unwound.....you can test it with the cover off but u need to hold that white plastic sleeve in place against the gear or it will push out..... hard to describe...good luck

rod is lcked up on crank

all i ride is trails.......i love the razr's or kenda klaws for best all around tire........razrs hold up very well......

I dont know the durations....The carbs have 220 mains in them now....I have yet to get the intake boots.... i need the angled ones now..... I gotta check to see where the pilots are at.....thanks for the info.......its my first 4 mil build with using bigger carbs so...

Got it all together now what jets to start safely.... 64.5mm short rod four mill.......cut stock head..... drag ported by wildcard......34MM mikunis set up for 50/50 mix...boysen carbon fiber reeds with spacer.....500 ft above sea level.... For now...FMF gnarlys.......with PC 2's saving for a set of in frames

Its just experience and sound .......each pipe has diff powerband and feel to them.......each bike is its own as is its rider

id be intereted in the flexx bars.......

DO you know if u have a cracked reed? - check that...... your chasing a dead horse if you have an issue that your not addressing first....... adjusting pilots on a dirty carb is pointless as well.....all it takes is a piece of dirt or sand to clog something.......so take them off....find out what jets are in there....clean them up....and adjust to recommended specs with both spark plugs out you should still get a very accurate reading on your compression test......they are seperate cylinders and wont matter .....if it runs by jumpin it...but wont kick.....its very possible u have a low compression issue..... your carbs also may be dumping wayyyy too much fuel in causing flooding but when u jump start it ....it will run........then fire up afterwards when warm because the fuel is burning at that point.......... you need to take it slow and take time.......get it right or u will be chasing all day make sure the carbs are synced up as well............that means both carb slides rising and dropping equally.......and when u release the throttle u hear one solid thud...not two

do you have TORS? smoke could be due to air leak - do a leakdown test...... how are your reeds??? cracked?

Great deal and fast shipping on Billet Throttle assembly!

hell yea looks good man

yea if u get the ported 97 u are all set wont need any mods it already has them and it runs so much better deal

YOu need to grind on the frame where the upper mounts are to get clearance....the bottom will bolt right up to most +2 arms.....u need to grind the bottom as well i believe for stock arms..there is a post on it

just like a classic car....new technology in old bodies...its a win win man Will handle like a dream and have a good motor with tons of parts avail and flexible

adjust ur air screws and move your clip up I would suggest working down one jet size......280- 250 is a big jump...try a 270......and a 260 first....then a 250 if ur still off..but work slow or u will lean it out. with pipes try a 27.5 pilot

I ride trails thats all i ride...the banshee is fun but it is nice to have a four stroke in ur back pocket to put around on when the powerband is too much for a slow moving type trails....for fireroads and such io am sure a shee is just fine......just do a plus 2 suspension and it will be a nice ride.....stock motor is all you need to trails

Sounds like a good time man....the shee looks real sweet......he ran out of gas probably because of the riding style.....nothing to do with running rich..he would burn slightly more at idle if that was the case.but not for the whole ride if he has bigger jets than you than he will burn more fuel ...the coolant will come out of the overflow....then it will settle at its proper fill point......disregard it as a leak...it is an overflow...... stay safe and ride on

I trhink the rear caliper would be ok as long as u remove the piston which is what has the o ring on it for the seal.....the front master i dont know cause of the viewer window Easy parts are swingarm...wheels....pegs.....

Save weight cut ur hair