Jereme6655

the best thing to do is to send it to a site sponsor....they REALLY know their stuff.....Jeff from FAST has my cylinders currently for some porting. He's a really great guy.....as most of the site sponsor are here. They are really the staple and back-bone of the banshee. There may be guys in your area that can do ATV port work....and they probably wont do a bad job.....but the site sponsors here specialize in the banshee motors and can milk power out of these motors like no one else.

faulty guage...

yes you can JUST unplug it.....but then you still wind up with all that stupid crap hanging ontop of your carbs and getting in the way. You can get the TORS removal kit which will replace the caps on the carbs to clean up the carb area and make the bike that much easier to work on...

what is your jetting at?

call one of the site sponsors and ask them what their opinions are....i know Jeff from FAST is a really great guy that will give you truthful answers (as im sure most site sponsors on here will do...they're all good guys) but Jeff will be able to tell you whether it would be cheaper to rebuild and weld the crank or to get a different crank

x2 like trick said....you cant use the 91-06 pads on the 87-90 calipers i know the 91-06 pads are SMALLER than the 87-90 pads.....and i believe the calipers were actually larger for the early years.

what pilot jets are you running? and what carbs are you running? the pilot jets have alot to do with how your bike will start

victor....you got aftermarket pipes on your bike? if you do then definately jump up to 27.5's.......it'll not only help your performance but it will also help with starting

The problem comes from people having mis-jetted carbs. If its not jetted correctly it run it lean....and is EXTREMELY hard on the top end....especially when your riding at almost max throttle for long distance. To keep your motor as safe as possible do yourself a plug chop and jet it accordingly....or even slightly rich. And avoid riding long streches with it pinned wide open. 2-strokes will need rebuilds more often than 4-strokes (i bet i get shit on for that comment)....this has ALOT to do with the massively faster amount of REVs that a 2-stroke turns. and then again we come back to people not having jetted their bikes correctly. If you want power and to lead..... keep your shee. if you wanna NOT do maintenance but be in the back....buy a 4-joke

hell i bet you could just plug the ends of them with some rubber stoppers and save yourself the time from having to burn up the oil and crap

and you also need to remember to tell the parts guy the year of the bike your calipers came from as the earlier 87-90ish had larger brake pads and will not fit on the newer style calipers

your stationed on a military base? go over to the motor pool and see if they can lend you the rubber plugs.....talk to one of the mechanics in there.....they probably have some as mechanics will use the expanding plugs to replace engine freeze plugs instead of pulling the entire motor to pop out and pop in a new bronze freeze plug

okay what mods does your bike have? im starting to wonder if your doing other internal damnage by mistake because of the previous owners idiotness.....llike WHY would he have the timing retarted to -5? Either he had no idea what the hell he was doing or he had a problem (like detonation or needing race fuel) that he couldn't solve. Also even though a banshee is a liquid cooled quad...it is not fan cooled. So you need to keep air flowing through the radiator in order to keep the motor cool. Even just letting it sit there and idle for a long time can actually cause a normally perfect running banshee to over-heat.

if you get those ugly ass craptor plastics then be prepared to get made fun of and have your ass chewed for your bike lookin gay.

im pretty sure it comes with an adapter so that it can stay in there without the lid on and still maintain a seal

when i mean basic im talkin really basic....like a couple pieces of pvc and some rubber expanding bungs (plugs) and a tire pressure tester... IF you can't do that and you absolutely have to find it while its running (it could be a big enough air leak to lean it out even while idling) then you need to fire it up and spray CARB clean around all the possible leak points. CARB cleaner will cause the idle to change (slightly rev up) when it gets sucked through the leak. However you shouldn't continue to spray it into the crack once you've found the leak....as your then running it with a mix of your fuel/oil and carb cleaner which will keep it from being properly lubed.

Other than just a normal rebuild? You could always send your cylinders out to a site sponsor and have them ported....it'll wake your shee up pretty good...

uhhh....you need the flywheel to fire the motor. What you need to do is a leakdown test.....there is a sticky on here on how to build a leak-tester. then pressurize your cases to 6lbs and watch the pressure....if it drops past what the sticky says then you have a leak and you will be able to find it using the leakdown tester

its cheaper and its the same amount of things you have to disassemble from the motor to have them bored (which is the correct way to rebuild a 2-stroke) as it would be to buy new cylinders and pistons. its like $50 per cylinder to get bored and honed then like $200 for pistons.....any site sponsor (motor builder) can do it.

what are you mixing your fuel at? could it be your fuel line deteriorating and being brought down into your carbs? i would suggest putting a fuel filter in the line....BUT...since you are having a dirty fuel problem then i wouldn't suggest it as it will limit flow more and lean the motor out even more. How about where you get your fuel from....is it a reputable place? How about YOUR fuel can....is your can clean inside or did you over look your fuel can?

holy donkey balls....i didn't think a 20 tooth sprocket could fit up front! I think we figured out why you got your ass beat so bad by that 450. The front sprocket should have 14 teeth and the rear sprocket should have 41 teeth. Be warned....if you go from a 20 to a 14 tooth up front your going to want to get a few practice runs in before you try to launch your bike in a race......otherwise your going to wind up on your ass watching your shee stand-up on its back end too. it will launch a HELL of alot harder

scratched off by a rock?...uuughhh....you the original owner of that shee? Im not sayin you ever did anything but damn i don't knjow if ive ever seen a rock jump up and scratch away etched numbers into metal. i could see if it dented or kinked metal but scratched makes me thing someone tried somethin illegal lol

okay....you should not RUN the fuel out of your tank.......when you do that you wind up starving the motor for both fuel and oil. This CAUSES your bike to run lean and you will damage your motor!

Just had to do that last night to re-seat 2 snow-blower tires because they popped off the beads. Sometimes you have to squeeze kinda decent on the tire.....basically you need to squeeze it so that the tire squishes the bead outward enough to get a seal between the tire and wheel...then start to inflate the tire slowly.

ARE you doing a topend rebuild? If you are then your gonna need to take the jugs (cylinders) off anyways to get them bored/honed and new pistons. So when you pull those off you'll have access to the crankcase to soak up whatever coolant wound up down there. Shouldn't hurt a thing.......your not the first and you wont be the last to have coolant make its way down there.