Jereme6655

hey crazy....are you sure your fans working correctly? because your raptor should not be overheating because the liquid-cooled fan assistance should be enough to keep it at a decent temp at idle

if im thinkin right there should be one coming off the rear of the motor and one off of the clutch cover side of the motor that run up above the carbs and get connected with a T-connector and then the other end gets routed up near the gas cap vent

i think it was like 02 that they started puttin the brake switches on the shee's.....i know my 01 doesn't have it

there are some people that do actually run purge tanks on their bikes (small fuel cell with gas/oil mix) with a seperate valve to purge the alky out of the bike before shut-down

Well....they ARE liquid cooled.....but they are not assisted by a fan. so as long as your tuned correctly and you keep moving (ie keeping air flowing through the radiator like rob said) then you should be totally fine. However if you just let it sit there and idle it WILL actually raise the temperature to a dangerous point if ideling way too long. The banshees need the air-flow to stay in operating temps.

how come the dyno chart shows it made 46 ft/lbs of torque?

haha....sorry man....was still in shock over the post....i meant transmission

you also have to realize the difference between a stock bike and a bike that has been modded. Most guys that will go for the "higher quality performance pistons" are also those of us who push our bikes a little harder. im not saying we're bad to our bikes or ride them harder than is good for them.... im just sayin that runnin a bike up to 9500-10000 revs is alot harder on it than running it up to 7000 revs. But i bet if you ask around.....you'll also find that us guys who run our bikes harder also get joy out of wrenching on our rides...

graphics and sticker kits will stick better if they are put onto a clean dirt free surface that is WARM....too hot and it will bubble or cause the graphic to slide.....but nice and warm and it will help the adhesian process.

post up those pics man.....carnage is always fun to see

okay....now im starting to think you are serious. Sorry darrell.....thought you were joking about the frame fluid thing. There is NO fluid that is supposed to be inside your frame at all. The brown color you saw was no doubt water that was either slightly dirty or discolored do to starting to rust the inside of your frame tubes. There are only 2 fluids that should be in your banshee....gas/oil fuel mix and crankcase fluid (gear oil or atf type f depending on what you use) Did you bike sit underwater or in a water pit part-way up the frame at all while you have owned it?

wait to get the bigger main jets in your bike before you run it anymore.....its breathin alot different now with those fatties on there. If you keep pushin it while running lean you will wind up melting a piston. And get a set of 27.5 pilot jets....most aftermarket pipes really come alive/need a larger pilot to run correct. My bike hated life before i got the 27.5's inside of her.....and it was a HUGE difference..... and don't worry about your english buddy.....we can pretty much fight through anything.....but your english is totally fine. hell if your profile didn't say you were from europe i doubt anyone wouldve noticed. and CLOSE to the block it is not unheard of to see a slight color change in the pipe as it is happens to metal from the heat that it has to deal with.

Are you sure it wasn't headlight fluid that your leaking? or how about the flux-capiciter fluid? all seriousness though......are you serious? there isn't such a thing as frame fluid. if clear liquid as thin as coolant came out......well then buddy....you have either a crack in the frame or a loose bolt and your quad was sitting in some serious water. Yep....that would be WATER that was inside your frame....shouldn't be in there.

any new news about this pud-nocker and whether phelps got his $$$ back from the ebay bullshit?

im pretty sure that worn out (grooved) inner and outer clutch hubs will actually cause the clutch to not fully disengage. either way there is something going on with your clutch......it should not idle any different when in neutral than when it has the clutch fully disengaged.

hey no problem herc.....just had me wondering there...haha. You should call a site sponsor and tell them what you want and what your going to be doing with it. They can give you tips and suggestions AND they will also be able to get you the parts at really fair prices.

i can understand that....as i would freak out if i caught someone trying to get info from us good-people to cheat and steal his way to a free ride. but yeah.......it was funny as shit when my buddy freaked out cause he forgot his sled key down-state. Should ahve seen the really horrified look on his face when i unplugged his key switch and pull started it and said lets go. I think before that day he was under the assumtion that his stuff was forever theif proof because of a key.

AK is right.....there are certain times where you will look at it to make sure things are still good. Larry...your right...would be nice if they were set up that way....BUT you can actually set the vapor for a certain rpm and it will flash the yellow shift light (blinks real fast) to let you know youve reached that certain rpm. You can set a higher rpm so that when it is hit the red shift light (also blinks real fast) goes nuts to let you know you've hit the high side of the rpms. This rpm light is also used as the shift light (stays lit when its shift time.....blinks fast when rpm level is reached). I've got my low set for just shy of my powerband....and my high set at the highest i want to spin my motor. With a quick glance you can see the lights flashing easier than you can see what rpms you are at. As for instulation....its really not that bad at all. The temp T-fitting goes between the rediator hose.....the tach inductive pick-up gets wrapped around 1 spark plug wire.....and the wheel speed sensor is what takes the longest. You need to replace a rotor bolt with a magnetic bolt (supplied in kit) and then you install a magnetic inductive pick-up into the dust shield (or a bracket if you don't have the dust shield anymore) for the wiring. If you want to go all out you need to also wire the Vapor up to power to really illuminate the backlight and to use the shift lights. The wiring is stupid easy for this....its literally just daisy chaining 2 - 9volt batteries together (for 18volts) and running it to the +/- wiring on the vapor. let me know if you've got any other questions.....

LOWER compression?

The trails i ride here range between medium wide to dirt roads that you could run 3 cars wide down.......so when i say trail ride im usin it libarlly as a high reving 2-4 gear jam session or also a 4-5 mid rev....haha plus i just like to know how fast im spinnin her.....and i don't wanna let her come to pieces cause i do something stupid....

ehh.....if the pro theif really wants it....he's gonna get it. The point of having a key (and hell even locking it up) is to keep the joy riders from having too much fun and to keep the honest people honest. Kinda like the older Artic Cat snowmobiles ALL use the same exact key......hell go to a bar with a Artic Cat key and you could get an easy 20 sleds a night. Ya...you could wire in your own kill switch on your bike so that its hidden and only you know where it is......but then again the pro theifs just gonna chuck it in a truck and be gone. Once its at his place he can take all the time he wants to get it figured out and then he's off to the races.

i got a vapor on my bike. do i like it? yes and no. Yes because it allows me to monitor the temp while idling and while underway along with the ambient air temp. i also like having the tach and the mph.....but more so the tach. Don't get me wrong i like goin fast.....but im more worried about how hard im turnin my motor over. But there are some downsides.....lets be honest here....are you really gonna be able to look down and take a good look at all the info that its tellin you when your hoofing it HARD through the trails? Nope....you wont have the time unless your on a long straigh with wide sides. But you can train your eye to glance at appropiate times to see some info. Do i like it.....hell yes.....put them on both my shee and my 4-poke..... just my .02 though

good compression is around 125ish psi......so 93 is low. When you did the compression test did you have the throttle wide open while you were kicking it? did you continue kicking it until the compression guage stopped moving? If it really is 93 then yes its time for a topend rebuild....which sounds about right as at 93 psi you're gonna have a hell of a time gettin it to kick start.

and what fuel mix are you running?

what kind of pistons did you rebuild with? did you have it bored/honed or did you just slap some pistons in there?