Jereme6655

120 is pretty good.....what elevation are you at?

if you plan on storing it for a long period (ie over winter) then you should either stable the gas or drain the tank itself. Then drain your carbs (i said drain.....not run the bike out of fuel). Then depending on whether you want you can pull the plugs and squirt some fogging oil down into the cylinders.....then slowly pump the cylinders a few rotations (just enough to spread the oil). Some people also like to take and put steal wool in the very end of their silencers to keep mice and such out of the pipes. Then crack yourself a beer and prep the sled for the riding season...hahaha

yes rebuilding is worth it if your low on compression.......but just getting it ported is not going to raise your compression. Hook up with a sponsor on here....they all do really good work...and have them port your cylinders and bore/hone out your cylinders for the rebuild. Then make sure you get that thing jetted right and give it hell against your cousin (after break-in of course)

oh snap....good catch sandrider.....he said he has got the trinity 2-1 carb kit......i read it and for some reason it clicked in my head that he had the 2-1 air filter kit haha. That's why i mentioned the stock pilot jets possibly bein wrong sized. good eye man...thanks for the correction

when you pulled your carbs apart to clean them did you take both the main jet and pilot jet out of the carb to ensure the passages were clean? And also what size pilot jet do you have in your carbs? It almost sounds like your having a problem with your pilot jetting as its a starting problem..... stock is a #25 pilot jet.....with your FMF pipes you should be up to a 27.5 pilot.

i can see how that could happen....its natural habbit that causes me to do it......comin from riding sleds hard. sleds being held wide open = hole burn through your pistons because the oil injection systems cant keep up to the high R's. but seein as how we're mixin and not oil injecting.....i can see how a blip of the throttle could cause a quick lean sensantion to the 2-strokes.

you guys all go with the "pin it to win it" routine in 6th huh? shit i can't stand to hold mine wide open like that.....when i do get it up to the top of 6th i always religiously blip the shit outta the throttle.....the last thing i want is for it to lock up while im runnin it that hard..

its bogging at low speed but it clears up when you get into the powerband? are you still running the 25 pilots with aftermarket pipes? If you have after market pipes you should switch the pilot to a 27.5 The pilot jet can cause a low speed bog if it is too small

your bike is running with a leak still.... a leak will cause the high idle and lean the motor out....then the after effect is heat from being lean and hi-revved.....this will cause detonation and dieseling (which your running into)..... it wont shut down because its hot enough from running lean that it is "self" igniting itself instead of waiting for the sparkplug to ignite your a/f mix. Have you done a leakdown test on your motor? you can use a leakdown test to help descern weather you have a airleak and also to find the leaks BEFORE you fire it up....

my shee does the same thing.....itll leak just a small amount of fuel if i leave the pet cock in the on position. i know its just a VERY slightly misadjusted float bowl......but its such a small amount that its using it when the motors runnin so its not leakin. hasn't hurt anythign yet and its still runnin strong...

just wanted to make sure you were doing things the right way.....seen a few people say they were going to rebuild the whole thing cause it blew and they thought all you had to do was re-ring it...haha

did your buddy put the new intake on or did the builder?

are you just re-ringing it or are you doing a full top-end rebuild?

octane is what keeps deto from occuring.....however say if there is a large burr on your head it can begin to heat up and actually cause pre-ignition. are you sure that it started to deto? or did it get lean on itself and break a piece of the piston off and that's what smashed the plug...

on a fresh rebuild you should be in the area of 125ish stock cylinders........with altitude also playing a part with that number.

oh if your absolutely sure that they didn't fall to the ground when you pulled your cylinders off the pistons then they definately slipped down into your crank case. the best thing to do is to split the cases because there may always be that one last piece of metal that you didn't think was in there......making for a REALLY bad day after your finish the rebuild

if your cruising in 5th and say a boost bottle tears your intake then that IS fast enough in the RPMs to totally screw your motor up from a big air-leak.......can be turnin some pretty high R's in 5th....

BAHAHAHAHAHA

ya i forgot to mention that the rough estimate on the top end rebuild is if everything is okay on the inside and nothing is demolished......catostrophic failures sucks ass

yep.....the last thing you want to do is tear the motor apart and do a top-end rebuild just to reassemble it and find out it has the exact same problem because it was something like the carbs weren't sync'd or the choke tube fell off...

well....seein as how you said it was runnin and spitting and sputtering makes me think that it started running lean...... and when runnin a 2-stroke lean it will cause the pison to lock up in the cylinder. to do a rebuild it is gonna be about $250 in parts (through a sponsor) and then the bore and honing at a machine shop

start small. look at EVERYTHING first..... do a compression test and see where your at. Look at all possible areas for a leak to form. Did your choke-tube manage to come off? if you have the set-up.....do a leak down test on your motor. all these things can get you REAL close to finding your issue without having to crack your topend open only to get stumped.

well...if you ride mud alot then you should really hose out the fins on your radiator. Also the banshee water impellors also tend to go bad. start your bike and open the radiator and look at the coolant....you should be able to see it flowing....if you can't see it then your problem is the stock plastic impellor. Get yourself a nice billet one.

Welcome to the site!! The carbs are something that need to be maintained every so often. other than that you need to ditch that boost bottle and get yourself a standard cross-over tube. The boost bottles weight is too much for the cross-over boots to handle and it will eventually tear it and run your motor lean....

hey drew i bet vito's could get you that crank pretty quick seein as how they're like right around the corner from us here in michigan...give him a call....he's got a pretty good rep around here