Jereme6655

gotcha.....so its a drag motor...haha......i was gonna say SHIT...you wont catch me riding that thing more than 2 blocks from our cottage. But its a little bit different if its a drag motor......not so much when it comes to having to do a rebuild....but definately makes a difference on how far you have to walk back to camp lol

i wanna know why your letting a fresh rebuild sit for 10 minutes idling when your not supposed to let them idle during break-in.....

you run a motor that dropped from 6psi to 2psi? so you run your motors with a 4psi pressure drop in 6 minutes? wow.......no offense but i don't wanna trust that...hahaha. mine dropped from 6.5psi down to 5.5 psi in the 6 minute period. i've heard that you can lose up to 2psi in 6 minutes...but i don't wanna even lose that.

called a crows-foot wrench.....or you can just squeek a short socket on there with a 3" extension hahaha

haha...yea i understood you were sayin it was fine. what i meant by more well known was that youve been on the hq for awhile and have been around these bikes longer than i have......so someone with more experience than me hahaha

thanks phelps.......was hopin someone like a more well known hq member would stick there dick out and answer....hahahaha thanks man...

so i just finished assembling my motor after having Jeff at FAST weld my crank and had him do a play/dune port on my cylinders after he bored and honed em out for a rebuild. First time i've ever split the cases on a banshee and things seemed to go pretty smooth and just wanted to make sure on what other people thought about my leakdown numbers.... pumped it to 6psi and let it sit for 6 minutes and it dropped 1 psi in the time period..... guess im just curious if these are decent numbers...

greeeeeat....now i gotta watch my back for zilla....bahahahahahhahaha if i dont get them zilla ill let you know and see if ion would throw you up in line after me

what kind of silencers? haha...ionroller and i are lookin for sets of turbine core (spark arrested) for our bikes...

yea id possibly be interested........where are you at? keep me updated cause ive been kinda seraching around for Turbines for a bit....

like mentioned above.....try gutting your gas cap. Jeff at FAST just had me do that just to be safe after i got my cylinders back from him. There's 3 screws on the inside and you can just take the screws out and lose EVERYTHING that comes out....and you dont have to put any of the crap back on.....Jeff said he wanted me to gut it so that you could see from one side to the other side. This might clear up your problem......if it doesn't totally hellp then it might be time for a pengel also....

you just gotta contact a site sponsor from the forum here (there's a list on the forum with their numbers and contact info) and after you talk to a few of them and figure out what sponsor you want to go with you just diassemble your top end and you shi them just the cylinders (unless you and the bulider talked about sending more of your motor for different work) its literally as easy as taking your cylinders and putting them into a carboard box (packed well in foam or something to keep them from being broken) and sending them to the sponsors address and they will take care of you.

in michigan here yes. the best thing to do is to get your porting done through a site sponsor like FAST.....Jeff will take damn good care of you and he can help you when it comes to choosing a dome size for what octane gas to run. alot of it has to do with elevation which is why you will see some people runnin 93 octane with 19 cc domes (theyr'e usually way the hell up in the mountains) or people runnin 21cc domes here in michigan on race gas or a race/pump gas mix.

yes you will see a power rise from raising the pressure of your cylinders (lowering the dome size). this will also force you to run race fuel as crusty said. but like he also warned.....you should do a few things to help keep your bike together. like gettin the crank welded to keep it from seperating from added power. but its not the race fuel that makes it run stronger....its raised compression.

race fuel (high octane fuel) doesn't add power.....it can actually hamper power. This is because high octane fuel actually burns SLOWER than lower octane fuels. however people use race fuel in banshee's that have high combustion pressures because once you pass into high pressure levels low octane fuel actually becomes unstable and will pre-ignite or "detonate" early. This will actually hammer the force against a piston that is still moving upward and will begin to hurt your motor. it can lead to broken pistons to moved metal on the pison and head (looks like a midget with a hacksaw went at your shit). When detonation happens is when you NEED to step up to a higher octane fuel. it does not add power. its the raised compression (lowered dome size) that up the pressure causing a rise in power...

cock-kicker! cock-kicker! cock-kicker! haha.... X2 with wacko......you just lined up and drop-kicked us....thanks for the warning...

what....none of you guys have teh specialty clicker-style elbow? shit mines good for any torque i need! haha but the last time i tried to torque over 200lbs it took a lot of grunting and groaning...and a shart to get the final click.....

you MIGHT be able to get like $25-30 for them. fact is since we're all slowly going to Noss style cool heads that everyone has one layin around. and if you get a cut head from a site sponsor you wind up with your old stock head layin around too lol. but it is decent insurance to have one floatin around in case your on a ride and someone has a problem....

damn you zilla! That's where i was goin with it....BAHAHAHAHAHAHA.....no worries. I need to track down some spark-arrested turbines cause i have the powercore 2's also.... kinda hard to make a silver lake trip if you can't get through the gate...

what kind of silencers are they? hey ion your sig says you got turbine core silencers.....what kind of silenecers are you lookin for?

wow.....$75 for a stock head.....geez. hell i can get a machines .030 stock head from a site sponsor for like $60

ohh forgot to add in that if you decide to drop in a +4mil crank then you will have to run the wiseco 795 series pistons to compensate for the offset of the wrist pin

your looking for more acceleration? or more top end? depending on the trails your ride a 16t up front it pretty tall.....you could always drop it down to stock (14/41) and see if you like that better.....it should give you a hell of alot more of a hard launch and hard pull feel as you will hit the powerband sooner....but you will notice you will be shifting slightly more often.

if your thinking of getting the port work done to add some good power then send the jugs out to a site sponsor.......like Larry said....you really gotta know what your doing before you start just grinding away. 4stroke porting and 2stroke porting are totally different because the timing of the ports (ie when the pistons open and close the transfer ports) is pretty critical. and if your thinking of getting it ported you may also want to look into just having the site sponsor bore it and hone it for you and order rebuild kit through them. unless of course you know for sure that your rebuild was done correctly relatively recently. its alot easier to get it done all at once than to take it all apart twice because you held off on doing a rebuild. and the site sponsors can actually get your rebuild done usually for cheaper than you can because they get their pistons at a killer rate....

i used a 3/8 torque wrench and for those ill put a 3in extension on and a shorty socket and i can manage to squeak the socket on carefully...