Jereme6655

gotta_gofast is right.....there are instructions in all wiseco boxes that will tell you the size of hte hole to drill and also exactly where to drill the holes for the exhaust bridge. The holes if i remember correctly are 1/16" in diameter. They go BELOW the rings so they actually allow the fuel/oil mix to weep through the holes and lube the exhaust bridge/and piston. Gotta remember.....its an exhaust bridge....so its screamin hot cause its actually got the fire from the cylinder breathing right past it.

try n find a truck that's got the correct sized left hand tap. otherwise your gonna need to just either get a regular puller on there or cut it off and get a new one.

i was told by a site sponsor that you should pull both plugs and you DO need to hold the throttle wide open.....then kick until the needle on the guage stops rising....

is that your banshee inside your house? looks like its carpeted and it looks like theres a computer desk in the next room. Hell personally id think that would be AWSOME to be able to wrench on my bike....but im a little too messy sometimes. haha...

okay...this should be a time for you to buy a clymers manual....its $25 and its the best $25 that you can spend on your bike. There are a number of gasket sealers you can use.... yamabond 4, hondabond, threebond 1211, threebond 1194.....your gonna get a bunch of answers. I know site sponors that say that the Threebond 1211 is MUCH easier to use than the yamabond 4 as the yamabond is pretty stringy. There is a specific torque sequence for the case... here we go.... tighten crankcase NUTS to 3.6 ft lbs tighten crankcase BOLTS to 3.6 ft lbs tighten crankcase NUTS to 7.2 ft lbs tighten crankcase NUTS to 18 ft lbs. tightne crankcase BOLTS to 7.2 ft lbs.

if you do wind up doing this and your gonna run wiseco pistons then make sure you follow the install instructions for the 3 lubrication holes that you must drill for exhaust bridge cylinders. its not hard....dont' forget to debur it to make sure you dont screw the sleeve up. Seen 2 bikes run with exhaust bridges and no lube holes......in the end it doesn't wind up too good for the guy payin the bills... haha

ummm.....since when does doing a "topend rebuild" involve NOT boring it? BAHAHAHAHA......110-120. ohh yea...and last time i heard of a bike falling off an 80ft cliff the bike was totally FUKED....not just a tweaked the frame a bit...

hey matt......do you know who sells the arms for using the YFZ 450 shocks? And whats your personal opinion about them....are they really worth putting on as long as you have the different arms?

so its going to be a sleeved cylinder with a exhaust bridge in the exhaust port?

Jeff does have some good points......especially that one..... he's right....you skimp to save money and you'll cost yourself more.

it could also be that the previous owner has never replaced the silencer packing or may have run it TOO rich on oil and the silencers are just soggy with oil. coudl be just the pressure from your exhause is shoving the excess oil out of the silenecers and that's what your seeing.....worse case is you repack your silencers (which can actually lead to you making slightly more power)

i know one of the ims tanks DOES require cutting of plastics...

if your concerned about it then i would build a leak-down tester. There are instructions in the general forum. If there is a leak between the crank and trans area then a leakdown would let you know. But like camatv said......they are 2-stoke bikes....so they do burn oil in the gas causing it to smoke. you may also be jetted a little rich so it might not be totally burning all the fuel mix and that might be whats coming out of your exhuast. Either way they do burn oil and you will find oil residue on the exhaust tips and a coating on the inside of the pipes.

umm.....2-stroke oil is not seperated when it runs through the motor. True a VERY small bit MAY pool in the bottom of the cases from the oil possibly seperating out of the fuel mix that was in the crank and the transfers after it has been stored for a long time......however the crank does not get emersed into oil or splash oil up onto the cylinder walls. That is how a 4-stroke works......2-strokes are soley lubed by the oil coming into the cylinders via the oil in the fuel mix itself..

well your right....there isn't supposed to be any tranny oil in the crankshaft area. they are supposed to sealed totally seperate. What is to make you tihnk that there is trans fluid making it way to your cylinders?

i know what actual blow-by is.....however 2-strokes should not have blow-by. Expecially the banshee motors....they do not have oil in the crank area. The only oil that they should have is in the transmission section of the cases. Are you sure your not just running rich and its the excess 2-stroke oil that your seeing? if its not then you have a leak somewhere causing the tranny oil to make it into places that it should not...

yeah it does suck when that happens....but like a pro-theifs.....if they want it they will get it. You can say that you'll build the most theif proof room or you'll chain it to the floor or whatever.....honestly that stuff is just good enough to keep the honest guys honest and the joy riders away from your stuff. If the pro wants it he's gonna do the leg work for it and he's gonna have the means to get whatever he's after...

X2 with going for the F.A.S.T. EZ pull lever....

still haven't seen it on anyones list.... One DEFINATE thing that should be on top of your tool box before you even think of starting to wrench on your banshee is a CLYMERS MANUAL. It will help you withc wrenchin on your bike without a DOUBT! get one....they're like $25 through our site sponsors.......its the best $25 you'll spendo n your shee.

it might be just like an 80w gear lube that the previous owner may have put in there......either way it wont hurt to change it. And oil blow by? how does that work in a banshee

say what?

no offense....BUT there is NO POINT IN WIRING IN A KILL SWITCH!!! There isn't a criminal stupid enough to run up to your camp or break into your garage and start up banshee and ride it away. to be honest....if they know how to fire up a banshee then they know it would retarted to start it there. if anything they will just pull up with a pickup truck throw it in the back and be gone.......they'll have all the time in the world to find the wiring problem. You can NEVER protect any of your material items 100%.....reason being....if they WANT it that bad.....they're going to get it.

go out and buy yourself a clymers manual for your banshee.....its like gold. it has all the info for repair and step by step instructions on how to perform those actions. As for your overheating issue.....i bet your way lean. If it only has the jets the the pipes came with ( i wouldn't trust those anyways) AND it has a removed snorkel and a K&N filter which means its breathing easier, then chances are real good that its running lean. To find out....you need to pull your carbs off the banshee.....then (1 at a time cause they are different!!!) take the carb bowl off of the carbs.....you will see a hex shape brass colored jet (main jet) which is going to require a 6mm socket to take off. On the end that you see when you pull the bowl off of you will see a number stamped on it (yes it IS there....its jus a bitch to see cause its so small). That is the size of the main jet that you are running.......let us know what it is.... 10:1 odds its like a 240 which is still way too small. As jetting goes.... after all mods you need to at least CHECK your jetting.......most mods require you to re-jet. Also.....as the temperature drops.... there are more air molcules in a certain area (like a cubic foot) meaning that since the air is denser you are now sucking in more air molcules in the same amount of engine RPM...which in turn means you are running lean and have the chance of melting holes in your pistons. so you really need to rejet for colder weather. let us know what main jets are in your carbs and we can help get you close to where you need to be!!! Jereme

another way to distinguish between the two is to look at the outside of the bowls themselves too. The choke bowl has a brass ball on the OUTSIDE of the bowl. The non-choke carb does NOT have the brass ball on it.

i don't like to let my bike sit and idle even after the motors been broken in. i do know that my builder wants me to break my motor in by not letting it idle during break in but to keep blipping the throttle until there is heat in the motor.....then take it for easy accel/decel rides til its fully broke in.