Jereme6655

its easiest to just use photobucket and then link the address here...

my bad....i meant have your SPARK PLUGS ever backed out......

if your cylinders are backing out then you are detonating......id say either either gas or your timing ( i know you said it ran for 6 yrs on the same settings) my suggestion is that you try some new o-rings and back your timing down to stock and run it. AFTER you do a leak down....

shit you better let me know.....im runnin a FAST play/dune port and pretty much live next door to you (fraser)....so i better get an update on how those work

shit i want to know how those sound too.......and how they perform compared to fmf's

piston crown looks pretty freakin clean......so either you cleaned the shit out of it....or it appears that it may have run lean....possibly from an air leak. Look at your plugs also......does that side look like it has small silver bits on the electrode? Did your plugs back out at all? Not only does it appear to have leaned out and detonated but the real big chunks on the bottom (of the pistons top view) looks as if it could have been caused by your rod bearing doing the cha-cha smash and dance on your piston. Either way you had to split your cases......make sure to clean EVERYTHING good.....as little metal chunks can cause chaos....as you already know.

Welcome to the site!!! Good job on testing the compression.....that and a leakdown test can and should be used as tools to diagnose and check your motor....even BEFORE you rip into it. To answer your question there is no real answer.....could you be fine for the rest of the season....sure. Could your piston skirt break off and do a cha-cha dance all over your cylinder walls and head...sure. You said its spitting and coughing a little bit down low.....it could be a leak or it could be a jetting issue. what do your plugs look like? as long as your jetting is okay and you are running quality fuel AND you do not have an air leak.....i wouldn't worry about riding it for the remaining season. Stock cylinders are NOT nykasil plated....so you CAN bore them without a problem. You can bore the banshee cylinders to a MAX of .080 over......so as long as your good with maintenance and pay attention to your motor you can bore it 8x's......that will last you a LONG time.

more traction to the ground. the longer you go out the less the front end will come up on you......but there's just that much less weight over the axle.

Jeff at FAST is where i got mine. Included everything that is needed to install (including the carb tops) for cheaper than i could find anywhere else......alot offered the kit to CLOSE or JUST under his price. however they never include the tops in the kit

there is an easier way.....and it involves a screwdriver. Get a medium thickness phillips screwdrive about 8" long. then place the spring on the shaft near the handle.....place the phillips end in the hoop and then just use leverage to tighten the spring......when you apply enough force it will force the spring to slide down the screwdriver shaft and will either snap right into place or it will hang the end of it on the spring hoop allowing you to just click it the rest of the way in...

coolant drip from hose onto pipe?

check the coolant hose hook-up to the head. it is a notorious leaker after rebuilds. as far as the no spark and you getting your frame powder coated......did you check your grounding spots? i believe where the cdi sits is a grounding location underneath it that you must have good solid ground to.....so powdering it will goof that.

i bet it is. its gotta be something like he's trying to say yes SIR...but its getting jacked in translation to dear....haha

Try your compression test again.......install the compression tester then turn the ignition OFF and then hold the throttle WIDE OPEN.....and kick until the needle stops climbing. while most banshees will still run around 80-90 psi......they usually have to be pull started to get enough piston speed to make the needed compression for igniton

not a problem homie. report back and even put up some pics of what the plugs look like and we can help you get closer on your jetting!

okay now your starting to confuse me. is it your banshee or your dads that you are having the issues with. Your confusing me cause your sayin you have both of them hooked in but then later your sayin the tether isn't even hooked up. my suggestion is to just ditch the tether and key switch so that you can ensure that was the problem and get on the trails. Then when you have some more time just take things slow and do things right.

wrong. you MUST cut the threads off of the plug. The "carbon ring" that your looking for on the porcelian is on the side that you cannot see without cutting the threads off. I know i know.....blah blah blah that's a waste of good plugs. its $3 a plug. So its a 6 dollar test........its a HELL of a lot better than riding your bike for a minute and bang....you've melted a hole in your piston which wiped out your new top end. Now you have to pay $300......all because you skimped on a $6 test. Im not trying to be a dick.....sometimes we get crankier cause we see these things again and again on here. And banshee's are not bikes that are cheap. but really....its a cheap test to keep your bike safe.

i still have it on my bike but alot of people will tell you that you don't need it. Hell alot of the lock-up covers dont even have a vent hole in them.

does the bike have TORS on it?

well i think you answered your own question when you told us you put in a new ignition.....i bet that's it. did you put a KEY ignition back in or did you put a TETHER?

4 times? really? i thought you said 2 times in your other EXACT same post that you made. Little BHQ tips to get more help on here..... -dont repost things....it pisses us off and makes less of us want to help you. -also give as much detailed info as possible. "hey guys i have a 2001 banshee with a non-welded crank and i split the cases cause i melted pistons when i rode it hard....i think its a jetting issue and i want to know what kind of crank i have in here" you're gonna get more if you describe shit. but if you are serious about wanting to find out what rod you have you could call wiseco.....or the easier way would be to put one jug back on and measure how far up the down the stroke is.....then you have found the answer to your problem.....and it'll take minutes....not 2 days

Oh ya.....almost forgot.... GUNS have barrels. Banshees and big titted women have JUGS.

How about using a scotch brite pad on the piston crown.....if they are wiseco pistons shouldn't they be a 795 series piston (which I believe is actually a blaster piston) to offset the wrist pin location? Or am I mistaken and the 795 is to offset a 115 longrod?

Ok....plug chop is used to determine if you are too rich/lean. You need to warm your bike up to operating temp then shut it down and install NEW plugs. PUT YOUR OLD PLUGS IN YOUR POCKET. Then you are going to run your bike....wide open throttle from first gear all the way to top end. Then pull the clutch in and shut the motor down and coast to a stop. Install your old plugs and cut the threads off the test plugs. The porcelian piece on the plug shaft should be about 2mm thick and a light tan/choclate color. If its white you are to lean....if its darker then its too rich.

Would it by chance be a ricky stator?