gotta_goatsfast

Depending on your setup, it may take more consistancy and accuracy to launch if you have, say a 421 serval with a 2" over swingarm. lol But I did not build my bike to beat on girly 4 strokes in a straight line. I built mine for a blended array of riding. Although, if I hang my nuts on the gas tank and clutch it just right so the tires hover about 8" any raptor or 450 powerplant (in my area) gives up because of the roost I throw at them. lol I enjoy, ummm, agressive mx and gncc type of riding. Its fun to embarrass the fresh 450 guys in hair scrambles.

All I can comment on is you're headed in the right direction with Matt. Good luck. I've not had many paypal disputes end in my favor unless it was through ebay. Seems they only care about their ebay and ignore any other transactions.

I jack off a lot

Wow, you must be like the fastest guy on BHQ. Congrats

Hmm, cowboy themed seat with a football to go up the ass. Sounds about right.

Per Tom Borrink, the pipes were designed to work with an exhaust port duration in the area of 198-200 degrees on a mid-displacement sized motor (like a 421). They're designed to evacuate more spent gasses than a t5 or fatty. I never ran them on a stock port 350 so I don't have any personal experience, but on my 421 serval the R2s destroyed the t5s in top end and carried out the over-rev way further after the T5s signed off. They also pulled on sooner and smoother (more traction with a smoother hit). They are really close to the CPIs I tried but the R2s come one a little sooner and and have better torque "below the pipe" while still revving out just like a CPI. My guess is there just isn't enough motor behind them with a stock 350. Its a similar concept to when guys run huge duration solid camshafts in their small block with headers and a huge carb with single plane intake manifold... but run stock heads. It usually sounds bad ass but the motor cannot pass enough air to make use of the "go-fast" parts and they end up with a motor that makes little torque to launch and wheezes on the big end. As far as jetting goes, I found my engine likes a lean pilot jet compared to other pipes. I'm running a 45 pilot in my 35mm PWKs.

We're just trying to tell you that there are much better options for a performance suspension and that searching and doing some THINKING would be in your best interest. Evidently, you do not have the capacity to think on your own. In your eyes, I don't know whats going on. But atleast I figured out my suspension (not a cobbled up shitpile YFZ-take of parts like you're trying to achieve) Because of your attitude and lack of respect, you can now figure it out on your own. Good luck with that (it appears you need it).

I hate it when people use the excuse "I searched already". There was a time I didn't know much about banshees. Now I do. You don't see a million posts about dumb questions from me do you? I searched and found my answer. If you are going to buy used shocks, might as well have a little patience and look for used aftermarket banshee shocks/arms for sale. I picked arms for $300 and PEPs triple rate w ressies for $350. MattSCESC set the shocks up for my weight and riding style along with some rear shock work and it handles like an indy car and rides like a marshmellow. Anyways, if you REALLY want to make every dollar count you would search and research products and setups (not just on BHQ, there's an entire web...) and make an educated decision.

I shave my balls

I used blaster pistons with the long-rod serval I built (same block, different port timings). 573M06800 I believe is the part number. Its a wiseco pro-lite 573 series forged piston made for a blaster with 68mm bore.

Get 68mm domes cut for your application.

I drilled two 1/16" holes in the needle seat at the same elevation as the factory hole. Then, I removed one float from each carb and readjusted float height. They worked great for me.

Is there any signs of detonation? Any pinging noises under load? Any pitting on the piston crown or dome? Any metal specs on the spark plug? If not, then there you are safe. Unless there are signs of destruction in your current setup, there is no need (and no benefit) to a different fuel.

Do a plug chop. This will tell you if you are rich. I doubt you'll notice a difference in the two oils.

I side with Nick. Small bore inframes will yeild better results.

I bet your main is really close. However, my R2s favor a small pilot.

The first step to building a shee is research. Scroll through topics in this subforum (tt/flat track) to get an idea of what others are running.

A hot port designed to make a lot of horsepower will need to sacrafice low end. A woods or mx style porting will focus on the low to mid range (you'll still have plenty of top end to look forward to). If you desire a very broad powerband, you will love what these banshees do with a 4mm stroker crank.

This is purely a trinity claim. I ran two 30mm oko carbs on a 350cc motor vs. a single 35mm pwk and the twins had every bit of crisp throttle response and pull down low. On the top end, however, the dual carbs carried the powerband and overrev so much further. Snopy has dyno comparisons exposing the 2-into-1 for what it is. The FMFs you have now will give you the powerband you desire. I'm going to throw 2 cents into the "vitos pistons" pot like the others.

Since their is no electonics monitoring gear position, I'd say your clutch is sticking causing too much load upon start up. Maybe its not adjusted right so it still grabs slightly? Maybe the basket is worn and the grooves prevent the plates from separating? I would start at your clutch assembly first. Thick trans oil-when not warmed up-will cause more load on the motor also. When I first start my banshee with the clutch in it idles around 2000rpm. When I let the clutch out (in neutral) it will drop to 1750ish for a moment until the gear oil is warm.

Have you selected 2 pulses per minute in the setup mode? If I remember right, it comes factory set at 1 (which would mean your actual rpm is 2000-2500rpm and it is reading 4-5000rpm). Check that first.

So if you kick over 155psi on a cylinder with 200 degrees of exhaust duration, it will run best with a lower octane than a cylinder which reads 165psi on a 182 degree duration? Compression readings at <100rpm (unless you have a really strong leg) vary vastly compared to cylinder pressure during the powerband. This article is fairly simple to follow compared to some (and it saves me time)... http://www.2strokeheads.com/tech2.htm

That douchebag will just come back with another username...

I've witnessed a few raptors puke their rotating assemblies on rides with me. Most my banshee ever did was short a stator. haha

Geezus. What the fuck is that!?