gotta_goatsfast

You seem more like the wine cooler type

Shit! This clown is STILL crying? wow, what a little bitch. Be my entertainment for the night. Seems like every time I log on two more pages have been added of guys teasing you and you getting all butthurt.

FMF sells a small package with exhaust o-rings and 4 springs to connect the expansion chamber to the cylinder head. It can be had for under $10.

Good news for JonPeter! Don't ask/don't tell has been repealed and lifted. You got your job back homo.

Come on dude, you can't rant and whine for an entire paragraph and then put it off like nothing's wrong and its funny to you. You're showing both X chromosomes in all these teary-eyed "you can't say that" attitude littered posts. If you don't like it here google forums for women . Oh and Matt, you made me that way!

How is that being a douchebag? Damn you have some thin skin bud. For the customer support and the quality/price of Matt's work, I'll let him call me anything he wants! haha.... seriously though, whats your problem here with this post? Is something bothering you?

waffles

Matty ded yah no da brown wons cun be stack'd? Yo ass needs ta put 2 or evin 3 on ya shea. Dey go good wit da honda style camz... cun yo ass say VTEC!?

I put a katana 750 motor in a warrior. Fit was okay, and the choice to run an air cooled motor is obvious. Where will you put the radiator for the GSXR motor on the warrior? It was fun, but not what one would think.... it made a great top end screamer but the gearing was so tall combined with a fairly high powerband for a 4 stroke, don't expect to really have any fun until 30-40mph.

Just because you paid for a premium membership does not assume you are legit and only great transactions will happen. I assume everyone is a crook until I see otherwise. Because the one time I let my guard down that will be the crook. This is my logic, and it has worked. I am in no way calling you out to be a crook, but because I DO NOT KNOW I will never take the chance. If I ask you if you are a crook, what will your answer be? What if I asked a crook if he is going to rip me off? Will his answer be any different? lol Your best bet is to start one post, and list everything you have for sale. A potential buyer will feel more comfortable with a brief description (so there are no surprises when the item arrives) a picture or a few pictures if it is an expensive or large item, and a price and location of the item. Paypal should be used (if you gift money or have it gifted, you can't file a claim if something goes wrong) and communication with any and all buyers should be priority. Once you have recieved payment, ship it as soon as you reasonably can and provide a tracking number. Wait a few days after the tracking number has cleared and states "delivered" and then ask the buyer if he/she recieved the item. You are sure to gain a positive reputation quickly. With a name like "forsale" it sounds like you are only here to dump your stuff and not contribute in other ways. Whether you mean it this way or not, this might be a warning sign to some guys.

That 370 must be super rediculously fast. Hope I don't get "called out" by one.

WTF man. There have been waves of members who join the forums and the first thing they do is post in the for sale section. Someone sends money for a real sweet deal and the new member is never to be seen again. These scams happen a lot. I won't buy from you (or anyone else) until I see that someone else has had a good experience purchasing from said member. Then, the way you chose to respond to others on here sends a red flag to me also.

You should have a PM bud.

Does any one ever whoop some ass in a race consisting of more than a straight line? Granted, my banshee runs away from most any 4 stroke in my area, but its more impressive to beat them on the track or in a race. Plus, this is a hobby of mine. I won't race anyone unless its for fun. Some guys I've met get REAL upset and will NOT shut up about their 450 making an estimated 70 or 80 horsepower and that their exhaust and jet kit makes it twice as fast. I don't even bother with them. Cuz, if you DO race and beat them the rest of the night will be replaced with excuses and whining. lol

Yea, I'm a highly trained medical professional. I asked god to lend me a favor and help me aquire a flywheel to replace my broken piece. He led me here to heal you. I have no idea what direction that crazy old fool will point me in next.

Most likely the 450 if both machines are stock. 450s are easier to ride meaning the rider has less chance to make a mistake. They get better traction because of the smoothness the power comes on.

Ignore it. The pain will go away. Don't go see a doctor as he will tell you to stop wasting his time. Your best bet is to take a long power walk in the woods. Leave your cell phone behind so no one can bother you during your time with nature.

Haha, no. Just had to kill some time before a 5:30p work meeting. Short rod might free-rev a tad faster because the lesser mass of a rod that is 5mm shorter? Either way, the main reason for a longer rod is reliability. The ladies love a long rod too! Heres the proof for that...

You got it. It is a reliability issue, with a slight (mathimatically correct but doubt you'd feel it power increase). And here's why. Are you any good with Trigonometry? If so, lets take three points of interest and form a right traingle with them. First point is crankshaft axis (center) Second point is wrist pin axis (center) Third point is Crankshaft journal axis (center) Draw the triangle so that the right angle sits on the crankshaft's center. The adjacent side runs from the center of the crank to the center of the wrist pin. And the opposite side will be the crank's center to the center of the crankshaft's journal. And the hypotenuse... you guessed it, the wrist pin center to the journal center. (this is all with the crankshaft 90 degrees after or before top dead center). Now we can form a math forumula. What we are interested in, is the angle that is formed from where the hypotenuse meets with the adjacent side. Well, we know that a 4mm stroker produces a 58mm stroke. From the center of the crank to the center of the journal will be half of this, so 29mm is the length of the OPPOSITE side. We also know that a 115mm rod is, well 115 mm from center to center, meaning the HYPOTENUSE side is 115 mm. (remember, crankshaft is 90 degrees out of TDC) Using trigonomic functions we can find the angle of the connecting rod. Whipping out my trusty calculator AND... the angle is 14.61 degrees. If we substitute out the connecting rod for that of a 110mm, we come up with a slightly larger angle of 15.29 degrees. Is this a lot? Well, yea it kind of is. There is less force applied to the side of the piston (which you can consider stress to the skirts) and more applied to the crown. Why do I say it creates more power? Well, the engine is converting and/or transfering energy in every step. In order to transfer 100% of the energy onto a lever, you need to always be 90 degrees from the lever. This simply is not possible with a piston engine. The closest we can get is 90 degrees ATDC. Clear as mud, yet? I will explain the reasoning as best I can. You have a 2" nut that you need to break loose. A large wrench is provided. Are you going to press down at a 90 degree angle from the wrench (making an "L" shape where your arm is vertical and the wrench is horizontal). Now, place your hand so you are pressing on it at, say 75 degrees (or 15 degrees off of vertical). Now you are transfering most of the energy to rotating the nut, but you are also transfering some energy to PULLING the wrench away. Make sense? Now say you are 30 degrees. Most of your energy is trying to push the wrench away, while a small portion is actually applying force to the nut to turn. How does that relate to the crank? Well we can use trig formulas to figure out that the angle of the adjoining hypotenuse (con rod) and opposite side (horizontal line between center of crank and center of journal). On a 58mm stroke with a 110mm rod this comes out to 74.71 degrees which is 15.29 degrees out of perpendicular (90 degrees). What about a 115mm rod on the same stroke? 75.39 degrees or 14.61 from perpendicular. As you can see, there is a slightly less energy being used to "pull" the crankshaft out of its center and slighty more transferred to rotating it.

If it does not specify on the tire I usually position the tire so that the pattern points forward from the top of the tire. Check the side wall again just to make sure they are not directional tires (in which they tell you the primary rotation)

I suppose I don't understand. You guys are upset because you were riding on private property and the owners or law enforcement are stopping you? Was this your private property or someone else's?

Maybe its both a long rod stock stroke crank? Connecting rod length and linear stroke are two different terms. Best bet is to contact the manufacturer. They can give you the tolerances and specs so that you can measure it out. I would go over every part of the rotating assembly every time one of the parts fails. There might have been an odd stress on the crank during failure.

You have two choices. Get them directly through Mark Moore (great guy) or take it up the ass with Minkia on ebay. Mark, great guy... Minkia, dry fucks you with a hairy nasty wart cock sharing aids, herpes and all other horrid stds...

Really? You don't know how to break a chain? If only they made a tool that could grab the link and press the pin out. They could even call it a chain breaker. Maybe they could make it affordable, too. Like under $20. And then reputable places could sell it like summitracing and rockymountainatv.com and such.

Upon closer inspection of the pictures, you have the original Rockets, not the R2s. Still awesome pipes!