gotta_goatsfast

All the cool guys are running wide a-arms with performance shocks up front and roundhouse style swingarms with a performance shock and wide axle out back. Upgraded brakes are also pretty cool.

I understand your passion for US made products vs. overseas products.... but the banshee wasn't exactly built by Americans. haha The stocker will be fine as long as you get it out of first and second gear. For high load-short burst riding you might find it getting hot. But a billet impeller and engine ice will keep you cool. A temp gauge will let you know what is happening if you are still concerned.

If it is a dyno and tune session, I've used Suter's Speed Shop in Madison for my motorcycles. They were confident to run my banshee but I feel I have it tuned right where it needs to be so I won't burn any funds. Sometimes I'll here of the dyno drags and maybe I'll take my banshee to find out what numbers it makes, but I'm not really concerned. Anyway, the gentlemen there build some mean record breaking 2 wheelers (2 & 4 stroke). You should make it to one of the Trempealeau rides in western Wisconsin toward the Mississippi river. They have some double black diamond trials and very skilled leaders that will push your limits. Its a rush to shoot up a hill while launching yourself off of water breaks and then toward the top a hairpin turn (that, if missed, results in a 100+ foot drop lol). Anyway, if anyone wants more information PM me. Trying to get a small group of banshee riders.

Yes, compared to CPIs and Shearers they failed miserably. They signed off around 7500rpm and couldn't pull any more torque down low than the top end pipes did.

...maybe open it up to make sure the motor you purchased is in fact what the previous owner said it was. Obviously if it is a stock banshee with bolt ons I would say one is wasting their time. But for a high performance motor, it would sure suck to purchase a ten mil and find out its only a 4mm stroke... Also, engines of this extent spend most of their lives wide open screaming so it is a good idea to atleast disassemble some of it so you have a peek as to what the condition of its internals are.

Most people disreguard posts like this because if the person is too lazy to put in a little effort to find what is needed to assemble a complete banshee, generally the project will either never get started (and we waste our time explaining the details to you) or we will see the cobbled up mess of a half finished project for sale in about a year. I am in no way trying to be a jerk, but I do think its best if someone where honest. What you are asking is simply rediculous. Pick up a clean banshee, start browsing the forums and any other source of banshee related tech, and then start swapping parts with aftermarket pieces. What you are asking is the equivalent of a 16 year old virgin who has never kissed a girl before going straight for the spider monkey.

You going to make it for the June ride? I'll be there with a blue banshee with the serval motor and chrome R2s swinging out the sides. Find me, I'll let you take it for a spin.

Before tearing into it, why not check simple things first? Obviously you can rule out a seized motor if it still turns over. Any metallic clanking sounds when you rotate it? A compression test will tell you a lot. Why did it overheat? Was it jetted lean? Low on fluid? Air leak? There are a million questions that can be eliminated before you even make it inside the motor. Our engines can be rebuilt for a third of the cost (and mechanical ability) in comparision to a new-tech 4 stroke. Get back to us with results of your compression test. Let us know how your plugs look. And I am curious what carbs/jets are installed and if it passes a leakdown test. (it overheated, this problem should be addressed)

How did you get that out of Cam's post? I believe he is talking about removing every other gear cog to allow more room for dog engagement.

I think my Serval makes very good ridable torque and an easy powerband.... and I'm much above your 60hp goal.

Gotta tie them up so they don't scare the 4 stroke guys when they drive by.

The limiting factor is budget. I wouldnt spend the extra money on big bore cylinders without running a 58mm stroke. Pick up a stroker crank (58mm stroke, 115mm rod) and have your stock cylinders ported by a site sponsor. If you can afford more, I suggest the 421 serval. Lots of power everywhere.

Mine work with each other.

It cost YOU $450 to get YOUR machine out of impound? Fuckers, they're all fuckers...

Check out our site sponsors. There is a wealth of information packed in any of them. FAST supplied my parts so I could build my Serval... and he's won my business. Now, I don't personally ride in sand so it wouldn't be accurate for me to suggest an engine. But since you are considering a serval setup, I can indulge a bit on how my machine behaves. The serval actually has plenty of torque below the powerband. At 3500-4000rpm I can pull up the front end with a +2 swingarm in first. This actually surprised me quite a bit. What else shines is how smooth the power comes on. This results in more control from the rider and more traction from the tires. With my setup, power comes on between 5500 & 6000rpm.... and there's plenty of it after. The power doesn't start to fall of until 10,500rpm (I shift just past 10K). I chose not to run a longer swingarm because I still need a decent turning radius. Under full throttle drag racing I really do have to teabag my gas tank to keep from ending up in the 12-o-clock position. If you're in the open then don't be afraid to run a +4 or +5 (or more if you are mainly a straight runner). There are higher horsepower options, too. The cub cylinders are a hotter serval. Should you choose to trade some of that torque for top end power this is your option. But for recreational drag racing, the serval is one of the easiest of the banshee motors I've ridden to launch. The torque makes take off an almost mindless afair vs. feathering the clutch to keep in the powerband of a wilder motor.

10-15 honest ponies. 40-50 magazine hp.

But surely a stock port engine with 160psi requires more octane than a drag port with 150psi.

I R put 2 and 2 together

Those 4.6s like boost. Simpler mods might be swapping rear gears to a 4.10 or 4.30 set. If you're running an auto a shift kit and higher stall torque converter will really help your launch. Manual transmissions can benefit from a fresh clutch and new tight bushings for all of your shifting linkages. There's a lot you can do with this car. Budget and mechanical skill is the limiting factor.

Oxygenated race fuels will require rejetting. In your case with 21cc domes, High octane fuels will do nothing for performance as higher octane simply results in a slower and cooler combustion (good to resist high compression).

With some patience, you can find jugs, cases, and anything else you need in our for sale section at a great price. You'll have money left over to build a ported 4mil stroker if you need to. haha

They can tear your intake boots. This allows unmetered air past the carburetors. This results in a usually fatal lean condition. And if you eat salads for a month you'll gain more speed than what a boost bottle would ever offer.

I've got a moose stator. Its quite a bit beefier than stock so dont be alarmed if it looks like it will barely fit. haha, but two years and no problems.

I've ran them. The float assembly and needle valve is not adequate for higher powered machines. In simple terms, the bowls run dry. On something like a stock stroke or 4 mil dune port I would say there are other options. On mild engines that will not pull enough fuel to drain the bowls, then you would be wasting your money on any type of carbs because they won't make any more power than stock. What would my solution be? If your engine has stock port timings, then remove the TORS and dial in your jetting for pipes and "bolt on" mods. If your engine has internal modifications such as modified port timings longer stroke crankshaft, ect focused for low-mid or all around power then opt for PWK 28mm. If your engine has internal modifications such as modified port timings, increase in displacement, ect focused on mid-top or top end then carburetion will be anywhere from 33mm on up. If you feel the stockers are holding you back, search around the forums and in the for sale section. I picked up a pair of 35mm pwks with filters for under $200 shipped.

http://www.trempealeaucountyatvclub.com/2011RidesFlyer.pdf This is a GREAT ride. Group 15 (slowest) has put-put trails for scenic viewing. Group 1 (fastest) will challenge you and if you consider yourself sub-A class rider I would not enter this group! You will get plenty of air time and the weekend trip in September usually results in a beer tent and huge fire saturday night with plenty of grudge drag racing. I hope to catch some of you out there. I promise, you'll be hooked.