gotta_goatsfast

Holeshot HDs. I run 20 inch tires and with the wide bite and side grips they still haul me out of ruts.

Do you understand how internal combustion engines work? A larger volume squeezed into "X" space will be compressed more than a smaller volume in the same "X" space. X is our control. If X = 21cc, and you try to squeeze 421cc of air into 21cc (forget that there are ports all over the cylinder for now) you will have more pressure than if you squeezed 350cc into 21cc chamber. Now, port timings affect this a lot more. A lower exhaust port will show more kicking psi than a higher port because at that slow of piston speed the higher port will allow more trapped air to escape before the piston fully covers it. What happens at 9000rpm though? In over-simplified terms the higher port timing (along with matched exhaust chamber) will draw in more air-which most escapes out the exhaust like when you kick it over slowly-but all that air is forced back into the cylinder before the piston covers it up. The result? More compression during the powerband than a lower exhaust port. This makes sense in my head, lol. Anyway, combine this with a load of other factors will tell you exactly what fuel you need. Set your ignition at a modest point and run the 21cc domes with pump fuel. If you notice any signs of detonation then step up the octane. I'm guessing you'll be more than fine with a good quality pump fuel say 91 or better.

hi

Just west of fastassbanshee96 in Wisconsin. Roughly 600'

I run 24cc domes and kick over 158psi. I also run R2s and I have found they like a lean pilot jet. Also, the jetting specs Jeff gave you were a starting point. Do a plug chop and fine tune that. As I sit now (with the mods in sig) I have a 45 pilot with air screw one turn out, 158 main jet, and CEL needles clipped on 4th notch down. I am not saying "run what I run" but I would bet you'd be real close to this. Soon here, I will run a 160 main jet as the cooler autumn air starts to blow in. To answer your specific questions, the "fuel screw" you mentioned is actually an air screw on the Keihins. Turn it clockwise to richen the idle and CCW to introduce more air and leaning idle. This is used to further dial in the air/fuel ratio after the proper pilot jet has been selected. If you find it idles/runs best with the air screw turned less than one turn out, you need the next richer pilot. If more than three turns out, you need a leaner pilot. The needle clip position is more of a preference/feel type of tuning for me. Where the main jet, for instance, can be tuned using a test (plug chop) the needle clip is more of a feel for throttle response and power delivery in partial throttle range. All in all, the engine will tell you if it is rich or lean. It will tell you it has too much compression or ignition. Problem is, it won't say what it wants in english. Once you learn the language tuning carbs is a breeze. And remember, always sync your carbs to each other when you get done tinkering. Pulling the carbs off may un-sync them and that'll have you chasing your tail. lol

My motor works great.... so does the serval in my banshee.

Do you miss it? I'd hate to give mine up. The only dissapointment with my serval is from my 4 stroke friends who can't remotely keep up with me.

Past tense because he sold his banshee.

If everything else is in great condition I'd say no more than $1500 if it needs motorwork like that. If you can get it cheap and know how to rebuild the engine yourself you can end up with a ported banshee with some hot parts for cheap. However, if this is your first time tearing down an engine and rebuilding, you must have plenty of patience and a healthy attention span. A keen attention to detail helps too. If you pay a shop to rebuild it, chances are parts and labor will cost more than the banshee is worth.

Make sure you get the product back before refunding money. Someone pulled a similar stunt with me a few years ago wanting a refund for a polished SBF intake manifold (Victor JR. single plane) said it was trash and all. It was beautiful. Anyway he requested a refund and said he would "throw it out" since it was junk... right, he wanted it for free. I had pictures of it and that is what saved me. Good luck man!

What is the dispute for? Does he want a refund or to return the product? Have any pictures of the PVL? Dealing with disputes sucks. Good luck!

You haven't heard? Its a stretched lonestar frame.

Don't take it personally. They're just reminding you that what an item is worth to its owner might be vastly different from what it is worth to the consumer. I too have seen worse banshees on craigslist and ebay listed for $4000.... but does it mean that they sold for said price? Most guys realize what the market is like and end up keeping their toy or parting it out.

Usually when there is a problem, I check for simple things like spark and fuel supply. Start there. How can someone diagnose a problem with out ANY symptoms or clues.

You are very welcome, kind sir!

I hate to be a party pooper but that Banshee you have is not worth even close to $4700. I think trading straight up for a 450r is very do-able, but asking cash ontop of it might be much. Anyway, good luck with the sale. Its a buyers market right now. I hope I never have to sell my Banshee...

Put in a little effort and do some research. Every banshee jets differently so if I were to tell you to try X main, X pilot, and X needle in X position.... it sounds like you'd set it there and never plug chop it. Why do you think you need to rejet? Did you just install these parts? Getting hot or pinging? Fouling plugs? I don't deal with Mikunis (Keihin PWKs) but the concept should be the same. First, sync the carbs and set your idle up to around 1800-2000rpm. Turn the air screw in or out and listen for the engine to rev up. When you turn it too far the idle should come back down a hair. If you have said screw turned less than one turn or more than three you'll need the next smaller/larger pilot jet and then repeat the process. The point it revs highest is your setting (I always set this to err on the slightly rich side). Next I focus on the main jet. Your best bet is to jet a few sizes richer than what currently is installed (unless you suspect you're already rich), then plug chop your way to happiness working one or two jet sizes smaller at a time. Lastly, I jet the part throttle portion of the carb (the needle jet) by feel. How crisp the throttle is, and how "zingy" or "throaty" it sounds. A rich condition usually results in hesitation before pulling or a bog. Lean conditions make the engine "zingy" and sound snappy under no load but just doesn't seem to have the nut it should. I've only once needed to purchase different profile needles for my carbs. Remember to sync your carbs whenever you play with them. 9 times out of 10 once they are set the first time they will still pull the same vacuum after being tampered with, but it takes two seconds to make sure. All in all, it requires a little patience and effort but properly jetting the carbs isn't "what settings do I run?". There are a bunch of articles that go into more detail and there are a ton of posts in the jetting and exhaust forum for you to scroll through. You should be able to find detailed procedures and other banshee owners with similar or exact mods as you to get you in the ballpark as far as jetting.

Huh.... Your best bet at this point is to upgrade suspension and brakes. This WILL make you faster. It will make the trails more enjoyable and you'll have more control. I wouldn't say you've reached the "top of the ladder" as there is still far more potential. Are you sure your motor is tuned/jetted perfect? If you are wanting more, step up your fuel (oxygenated or methanol) or send the cylinders out for more aggressive porting. But honestly, it won't be very trail worthy anymore. It'll actually be boring and a handful unless you run wide open in the top end all day. Or you could step up to a 10 mil motor, but that is out of your price range. So whats wrong with a performance suspension and brakes?

Your goal is to seat the rings. To do this requires constantly changing environments inside the cylinder. You want pressure on both sides of the ring (accomplished by accelerating and decelerating) When you first fire it up, make sure it is at operating temp before putting any load on it. Now, letting it sit there and idle at the same rpm for 10 minutes is probably the worst habit. Vary the rpm from 2000-3000rpm and blip the throttle during that time. Now that it is up to operating temp, shift into first gear and put a light load onto the engine and make sure to vary the throttle, rpm, and load. I never run high enough to hit the powerband the first run. Let it cool and start up again, same procedure for warm up. Then progressively get more aggressive with the motor as you run it. I jet rich and never run wide open until you check jetting. The best way I can explain how to ride it is "light mx riding". When you first enter a track and you take a survey lap just to get a feel for the layout and you blip the throttle, shift gears, vary rpm, and engine brake down slopes. This will be your best bet. You can monitor your progress with a compression gauge. I usually run one tank of gas through it riding like that before I start the plug chop.

Don't skimp. You'll spend more time on the side of the track than in the front of the pack. If you do not have the cash now, run what you have and put some more money in the bank. Have the cylinders ported so that the port profile matches the extra stroke. A 115 rod provides a better rod angle and in turn results in less stress on the piston skirts. I am not labeling you personally, but generally when someone "half-asses" one aspect, you can expect the rest of their machine to resemble that attitude. Honestly, and these are the type of guys who have problems every weekend and then the banshee in general gets labeled as un-reliable and piece of shit and so on. I strongly suggest you have your cylinders ported for the crank and never let the spacer plate near your motor. What other supporting engine mods do you currently have? There may be more gains elsewhere depending on the other parts. If mx and gncc style riding is your style, you'll want a wide powerband (you'll narrow the powerband by just dropping in a 4mil crank to stock port cylinders) There are plenty of site sponsors here that can make for a super wide two stroke powerband. If thats not enough, step up to a 421 serval! If you're interested in that route pm me and I'll go into more detail about parts, cost, and results.

Also, remember that E85 (along with any alcohol based fuel) will do mean things to non-metallic fuel lines and seals/gaskets in the carbs and what not. All in all, I would treat it as you would when building an alcohol consuming bike.

I picked my banshee up with pipes, nerf bars, and a few other small goodies in New Berlin, Wi for $1750 so your price is very fair. The guy said it was the fastest quad he's ever ridden.... if he only knew what it is now. lol, good luck with the sale. Do you have another banshee to ride? I do a few awesome rides in Trempealeau county and two to three hair scrambles throughout the state so if you're serious I can let you know the scedule of what is left.

Sounds like a real pain in the ass Matt. Best of luck man. Hope all goes well!

Matt is a smart guy. Don't skim over his posts, READ them. Here's the route I took (I ride tracks and races recreationally so it comes out of my own pocket...) Fireball +2+1 A-arms bought used here for $300 PEPs triple rate shocks with ressie for front bought used for $300 New springs and valving from MattSCSS (shouldn't tell you the price since its his business.... but cheap enough that I am sure he didn't make any profit on) Stock rear shock with gold valving and resprung by MattSCSS (again, check with him) YFZ450 front brake calipers/master cylinder/lines used for $100 A G-Force Axle used but never installed for $80 Against MX type of quad builds, I chose a +2 swingarm because of the 421 serval motor (no way I could get away with anything smaller for what I do). $400 new/ used round carrier $60. If you take out the swingarm and use the stock one (roundhouse axle carriers are ten fold better than the factory unit though) I have less than $1300 for a suspension with quality components and the shocks are tuned for exactly my weight, riding style, and modifications (a-arms/swinger, ect...) Only you can figure out what the best setup is for you. For my budget, this was the ticket. A little patience and some studying goes a long way. Hang out here in the FOR SALE section and eventually what you'll need will pop up. Especially toward the end of the riding season and in the beginning of the riding season. I should add, that even when I purchased the components I ran them as-is for a year before shipping them to Matt. While the parts themselves did wonders over a stock suspension, when Matt personalizes them to you and your machine, it is truely a night and day difference. I really would stay away from YFZ450 take-off shocks if you can. If you are going to buy a used shock, might as well budget a little more for shocks made specifically for a banshee. If you need to, save up for another month to cover the difference. And if you cannot do it all at once, pick up performance banshee shocks first. Run them on stock arms until you are able to pick up some longer a-arms. Then send out your front shocks to Matt and he will set them up for you and the +2 arms. Purchase a wider axle and run that. Then, when funds are available ship out the rear shock to Matt and let him work his magic.

I once fucked your sister...