gotta_goatsfast

Its really stupid to go out racing without properly dialing your carbs in. Anyway, I'm running the same carbs as you are and found this to be my best setup (while being safe) 48 pilot, air screw 1-3/4 out CEL needle middle clip 158 main jet. I could throw in a 155 for a little more out of it but I feel safe with what I have. Also, I'm at 800' above sea level and jetted for 60-70 degrees. I think the reason gizmo has a 175 main is because the signal strength across his carburetor is less than my 35mm venturi. I wonder where the smaller carbs will jet in at with these?

sstaton has a point. Although everyone has to start somewhere, I suggest that if you are serious about carbs then look into a Keihin PWK series carburetor. IMO they are a lot easier to tune and there is a ton of support on here if you get into a bind. Having friends to show you first hand helps, too...

That was my first thought, too. You can pick up a serval top end for under $1200. Sell both sets of cylinders and recoup say $300-$350, and its costing you $850-$900 for a new cylinder, pistons, and domes with gaskets, stud extenders, and a few misc goodies. Price up having the stockers ported and you end up with $300ish for a port, $85 for domes, $250ish for bore/hone and piston kit. Suddenly the serval isn't much more than worked over stock cylinders... but the gain is MUCH more. This was just my thought and deciding factor when I built my 421 serval.

Sounds like you're on the right track. If you need to purchase the jugs and then have them ported, you should really consider a Serval cylinder. The torque below the powerband is quite impressive for a Banshee.

4mil!

They let a 421 serval exhale well and for a inframe drag pipe they are very well tamed. I'm not sure how they'll behave with your mods but I'm able to pull the front end up in first and second below the powerband. I'd say go for it!

The viscosity of the oil is higher. Move through rubbing alcohol, and then move through maple syrup. Can you guess which would have a higher viscosity (thicker, so to speak). I run honda's performance trans oil. Some will suggest shit like ATF because it is thinner, but you'll be changing it about every ten hours of use or expect to glaze your clutch plates if you don't. And I have never broken out the torque wrench for my oil plug. I roughly know what it feels like. Make sure it is good and tight.... but there's no need for super hillbilly strength.

The stator has two seperate winding coils. One winding coil supplies power to the CDI. The other winding coil (your black and yellow wire) power your lighting system. Your engine will spark and will run without a functioning lighting circuit as long as the ignition circuit is functioning properly.

Its not so much the tempurature, as the rapid tempurature change that will crack porcelain. Heat it up with a torch real good and then submerge that baby in water... This is why I made the comment about a coolant leak being able to rapidly cool part of the porcelain. And its better to clean your plugs with a wire brush than a torch. lol

I would leave that up to the shop to decide. If your cylinders are within spec, save some money and just have it honed. With a broad midrange port and supporting mods it would take a very healthy 450r to hang with you in a straight away.

Its possible you did not seat the rings properly during break in? Did you let it idle for extended period of time? Were you hard on it right away?

Yes they should be jetted the same. Are your carbs synced? Maybe a filter is dirty on that side. Plug is firing weak on that side. Coolant leaking into that cylinder... there are a lot of issues that can cause this. But the carburetor settings should be equal between both carbs.

Yep, thats pretty bad. What was your break-in procedure?

Also, I would like to add one more point. Just because a trail or MX port is aimed at low-mid smooth power, it doesn't mean its going to be slow. It will still make more power than any stock port banshee. And if tuned right with parts that work well with each other, you'll still make enough power to hold your own against the 450 and big bore 4 stroke crowd.

There are a ton of topics, but if I were to tell you to do some reading and some browsing and searchin... someone will get upset. There is a saying "you can give a man a fish, and feed him for a day. Or you can teach a man to fish, and feed him for life". Since teaching a man to fish is frowned upon, I will just give you the fish.... T6 pipes do not perform well with ported cylinders. For a trail set up, I would look at Pro Circuits or FMF Fatties and have the porter build to these specs. 90 horsepower out of stock ported cylinders (although could be achieved) is impractical. It would require a stroker crank, drag only powerband, and alcohol to name a few. Expect 55-60hp with a well tuned low-mid engine. 34mm carbs will feed your set up, but might not be as responsive in the low-mid range. It will give you a slight disadvantage in the trails since this is the area you'll most likely be throttling. There are plenty of advantages to porting. But only if you are honest with yourself and your builder. If you tell your porter you want 90 horsepower, you'll surely set yourself up to disapointment.

I noticed a great top end hit when I switched from a single carb to dual carbs on my bike when it still had a stock port. I would look for some 33mm PWKs. Check your carb now, it might be a 33pwk in which case you could just pick up one more and purchase the throttle cable and filters. It might be wise to look at stepping up to more pipe. The fatties are a mid range pipe that probably sign off too early to benefit from the dune port you have. CPIs? I recently had the pleasure of trying the R2s from Borrink Performance and can honestly say they are an easy pipe to ride with a predictable powerband that still pulls to the very top.

Are you sure it is in your top end? What is your compression at? It could just as easily be a problem in your carburetor. Pick up a clymer's manual and start getting greasy.

Who's the shop and where?

You deserve it man. Big plans or just overwhelmed with orders?

I believe Rodney Carrington had a bit accusing every guy that he is just a little gay. He said, when you watch porn between a man and a woman, do you prefer the man to have a tiny penis or a huge cunt ripper when he's givin it to her?

I believe I have an analogy that you can relate to, and there for, understand. Accurately assuming you have a 4 inch cock, you pursue ways to improve this shortfall. You find someone selling dick pills for very cheap. The pills have no name, and were extra that he never used. He offers them to you for $200. You purchase them, and you take them that night. The next day, your cock has grown 50%! That's right Longrod, you now have a 6 inch dick and you are ecstatic. You figured brand new name brand pills are way too expensive ($500-$1000+), so you must have gotten a deal. You make yourself feel better by telling everyone you are an "A" class ass pounder. You honestly believe that your 6 inch cock can "compete" because you are so awesome at butt darts. Unfortunately, had you done some more research, you could have purchased name brand pills from the dude at your local gay bar for $300. Sure, they aren't direct from the lab. In fact, they are extras that the guy didn't use (just like the no name dick risers). Later in the evening, you meet a handsome fellow named Lance. You two hit it off and head to the bedroom (or where ever else you fags do your thing). He whips out a 9" shlong. I mean, this thing puts yours to shame. You get defensive and start telling him how great you are with your cobbled up pecker. He laughs, because he knows that he can fuck you harder in your ass because his cock performs that much better than yours. He doesn't have to be as good as you are to compete. And if he is as good as you, he'll definately put the big hurt on your browneye. But wait, you throw in another variable. You just purchased a Baldwin tuned 12" vibrating dildo. You know you've lost apples to apples so you whip this thing out and start comparing apples to oranges. In case you missed the moral of the story.... we all think you're a fag.

Without knowing what type of portwork was done, I can only make a vague assumption. 18cc domes, you're probably running race gas. Pro Circuit pipes, you've probably got a low-mid port job (or if you have a radical port then the PCs will hold you back). Running an air box holds you back a little if the motor really needs to breath. 55-60hp if you're tuned right. If everything is mismatched, then possibly a little lower.

The cheapest thing to do is get that new motor running! No $300 mod is going to get you the same gains as those new cylinders you have.

Why you gotta go tellin new guys the secret?

Haha, yea if you took Skeeter's post seriously and just carved the cylinders out to those specs. You might as well throw them out now and save yourself some time. Its obvious without even degreeing the ports out that you would have a negative blowdown number! No one says it takes a god to port cylinders. But I doubt any of the pros started by starting a post in a forum. Those guys spent countless hours schooling themselves, working side by side with knowledgeable engine builders gaining their experience, testing and data logging junk cylinders, and years of experience to do what they do. This isn't a V8 cast iron head where you can gasket match, open the bowls, work the short side radius back, and blend the runners and come out with some decent cheap gains. If you have the money for new cylinders, I suggest you send your cylinders off to a sponsor. The money you've just saved can be put toward other parts. You can examine what they did to the cylinder and learn a little. With enough research and patience, you can try a pair of cylinders of your own. If you are unsatisfied, swap back to the know-to-be-good ones and try again.