Larry's Shee

Her's a "Banchee" right close to her http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/mcy/2778663290.html I like everything but the pipes Or a "Barny" 'chee http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/mcy/2779885280.html

Sorry, by both I ment yellow or green to white.

To much oil on the pods? No air flow? Just a thought. Try starting without pods on.

How it was maintained (or lack of) has nothing to do with it . Steel to alum can be a bitch. Let it soak, hit it with some heat, soak some more etc. Unless I was in a hurry or had been trying for to long, I sure as fuck wouldn't pull the jugs, unless I was going pull them any ways.

Black is ground. Can use either or both to the white.

How far do they stick out? You talking on the edge or at crown of piston?

Just shit Jap steel. Gas type mig should be fine. 6013/6011 arc if nothing else

Sure he won't jack price back up if you get it running ?? Did you set float height? Pull fuel line and see if you have good flow from petcock

One other thing. On left frame tube by gas tank is the "TORS" "brain" box, three wire connector, unplug that, well documented problem causer. I've also seen it spelled Banji and Banzi . Be surprised what you find if you search "Banchee" on CL

Has it ever ran? Or did this just happen? Check your switches.

As mentioned check that all conections are clean and tight, maybe put dab of dielectric grease on them. Check that the frame grounds are clean and tight, there is one towards the front by engine and one by rear of seat by voltage regulator. Check where coil mounts is bare metal. Trim 1/4" off plug wires and re-install plug caps. Not real sure but from looking at wireing diagram main switch has continuity when on and stop switch has none when in "on" posistion. Last thing to check is flywheel/stator. Make suer "nub" on out side are clean. Using "only" a Banshee flywheel puller, pull it and make sure poles on stator are clean. Shake flywheel, if it rattles is shot. After installing flywheel gap pick-up coil .020, checked at both nubs. Ohm stator also. Either buy a Clymers repair manual or find a download one. This will keep you busy until you get your hands on a cdi to try. BTW, welcome to BHQ !! http://www.mediafire.com/?oiz8lyqrw27rxlo Try this, I know nothing about this site.

This isn't a precise method but close enough to determine stock or 4mil stroker. Pull stator cover so you can roll it over with flywheel. You want to use a near full length pencil. Put it in plug hole and roll engine over until it stops rising out of hole that's TDC. After marking continue rolling engine over untill it stops dropping. That's BDC, mark that. Distance between marks is length of stroke.

Just trying to cover ALL posibilities, wouldn't be first time it happened, won't be the last. If you're so fucking good with quads, why are you asking for help??

Get a stroke meter. Set the head back on, stick a pencil or something in plug hole, bring it up to TDC, mark pencil, turn it to BDC, mark, measure what you have.

Who assembled the motor? Are the windows on the pistons facing the carbs?

The angled "cutaway" faces the air cleaner, the bowl with the "BB" goes on left carb, 3" choke crossover tube goes from left to right carb right across from choke knob. Float level set, carbs clean, synced? Have to unplug tors "brain box".

I'm not going to search, but what's your bike worth?

Lots of non abrasive blast methods soda, ground walnut shells, glass bead, plastic bead, C O2 beads.

Look at a Polaris predator shock, don't know about length but they do have remote rezi.

Maybe dirty. Pull it off and clean it. Flush tank.

So you personally have used them?

Just wondered wether rings or piston/rings. Everyone has different deffinitions of re-do. Did you gap rings? Reason for suggesting LD test: maybe You have leaks and already fried it. Did you measure the cylinders? What was the piston/cyl clearance?

One size for every 20*f drop in temp, if you were close to lean before add one extra to be safe. Also if you still have TORS brick on carb, lube it inside housing.

What EXACTLY did you do? Consider doing a leakdown test BEFORE you tear it apart.

I'll bet the short shocks were bit narrower at eye and when tightened down pinched the mount. Might be able to make a spreader with a bolt, 2 nuts, and maybe a spacer.