Larry's Shee

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=152451&st=15 Read post #22

Consider getting a can of Berrymans carb cleaner and letting them soak. Just douching them with sray cleaner and air might not do the trick

I would consider getting a matched set of cases and take that out of the mix.

Leastwise Zilla has enough hair on his balls to come around

Must be factory. We have a Banshee, Blaster and Warrior and they all have the bolts welded. I could see someone re-doing it if they wanted different colors, chrome bolts, etc. If yours are unwelde I'd just coer the bolts good with red loctite.

Price on shocks? What springing?

Check that fuel cap vent tube is clear. Petcock screen clean. Carb vent hoses clear. What do plugs look like? Gaskets for carb caps on? Brass washers under main jets? If these check out, do leakdown test.

Just put set of 795 in the other day no problem. Were both to long?

Look in your Clymers, or there is a download around here. Either will have complete instructions on how to.

Love to see what you're starting with

Did you completely dissasemble the carbs to clean them or pull the bowl and give them a squirt? Fresh fuel? Plugs? Slides in the right carbs? Air cleaner clean? Check the exhaust for mouse nests?

I would start with new gas. Freind of mine has a little quad that was totally gummed up after sitting for 3-4 months.

Reason I mentioned the rust was my son's had one side kinda random miss fire/drop. Did a bunch of things, but cleaning stator/flywheel was main thing. As you ohm things out, trim 1/4" off plug wires before putting caps back on, maybe dab of dielectric grease too. Presume lots of other suggestions, but have you checked pipes for mouse house?

When you have flywheel off check it and clean any rust off stator, inside Fwheel and off nubs on outside. Any possibility of trying different flywheel?

Could the frame be "Z"eed? Also check the steering stem for wear where it hits the stop, and check the stop for wear or being bent forward.

Just trying to promote site sponser

Practice makes perfect but if it ain't broke don't fix it.

The search function works like a ghetto rat with fo beeches hooking for him. Unless someone can point me to a thread or directions for it. I can Google search and find shit here easier. JMHO, your results may, and will vary

Won't hurt anything changing type of oil when you do change. Change oil now and clutch when it's shot.

First off you can't possibly adjust the carbs like that, it needs to be running, it started just by luck. X-2 on what Jereme said. Do you have good blue spark? Have you cleaned the carbs good? Not a quick douche, but COMPLETELY dissasemble and soak them? Double check EVERYTHING you did to carbs. Brass washer under main jet? Slide cutaway facing air cleaner? Float level set? Float bowl with little "BB" on front on left (choke) carb? Choke crossover tube between carbs on? Sync carbs best you can. Set idle air screws at 1 1/2 turns out. When you try it again start with new plugs. If your reeds are good, put it back together and do leakdown test. Presume you didn't change anything on your set-up while it was apart? Presume we're talking stock carbs? While you have carbs apart write down main and pilot jet sizes. Also list up your mods.

1hr minimum, cheep bastards.

Take a good look at shift shaft. Is claw centered on ecentric screw? Is screw worn? Is the claw loose/wobly on shaft? Look at spring, is it worn where contacts screw? Working on son's shee, discovered worn screw. Looked closer, claw wobbles, spring is worn. Another member posted vid of wobbly claw.

I'll bet he's booked up for a reason too Craftsmanship or production, choose one.

A woman costs $$$ wether you're riding or not, a shee only cost when riding

Hard pressed to find a better seller. Got stock head from him sight unseen, 99.999% perfect . Perfection can never be reached, only approached Now if he could only get me some shocks ......................................