Larry's Shee

I think you have us all beat Windy. Might as well lock this thread.

All the above I've got a sprocket hub I couldn't get off an axle with home made puller and heating it dull red with a rose bud.

Either the O ring or pump seal will leak coolant into oil if they are bad.

Knowledge isn't worth a shit if it isn't passed on.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Banshee+compression+test Would suggest getting a quality gauge. Make sure the plug hole adapter is same length as spark plug, if it isn't you will read low, about 5 or more lbs. The you tube one about 4 down is good.

Check to see if flywheel came loose?

JDs Customs (87 shee rips) also has a "Hide a Key" bracket for gas tank location under front of seat.

Man, you sure are asking lots of tech questions Generally speaking 4mil stroker cranks run the 115 "long rod" but the can be had with "short" rod (said to rev out quicker?). Conversly stock stroke can be had with long rods. As to "true" 7mil I would presume it would have to be an aftermarket cyl, only way to have cyl long enough without spacer. Wouldn't have a clue as to HP difference between 4mil and 7mil, even given identical port timings. 4mil stroker is very popular because you don't have to modify (trench) the cases. I totally understand your questions as there are so many possible engine combinations that it makes my brain hurt sometimes

Any site such as Bike Bandit have online parts flitch showing relation of parts.

Stock stroke 54MM , 4mil (4MM stroker) stroke is 58MM , +7 = 61MM stroke, +10 = 64MM stroke. Stock rod is 110mm C to Center. Long rod 115mm is used to improve angle of rod in relation to stroke as piston is moving up and down.

Can't beat the manual for proper assembly. Buy a Clymers or find the download on the site. If new fibers , did you soak them? "Clock" the steels?

2:1 carbs and pipes are for faggots

Next size bore at the least. Inspect crank very closely, doesn't take much to jack the bearings up. Several different ways to do 4mil

What all have you tested? Test procedure? In the vid, is it warmed up fully or are you trying to rev it out cold? New plugs? Ohmed coil/plug caps. Gap pick-up? Nice blue spark/ both plugs? Have a Clymers Repair Manual ? Or download? LOTS of test/trouble shoot procedures in there.

For less than $2 you can get some pvc caps/plugs and be done, don't need no stinking crossover, show me dyno sheets that it or boost bottle does jack shit. BTW, I gooped the plugs with 3bond plus clamps, because BB will crack boots, you want to fix BEFORE it's too late!!

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/rvs/2872407547.html

Ya might as well get rid of it, cause a little work and get rid of the Don't Go pipes it would have arm ripping powwa. Plus you can start saving for an engine rebuild on that 4choke. If the Zuzi has identical power, the Banshee is either sick or needs to be tuned.

If all checks out and you don't have to tear it apart, be sure to check torque on head a cylinder nuts.

Uuuummmmmmmmmmmmmmm, must be surrounded by tin foil as my telepathic ability can't see the piston. Sorry

Compression and leakdown test to determin engine health. Completly disassemble and clean carbs, write down jet sizes, needle clip, and turns on air screw. If all checks out when you go try it , start with new plugs. BTW, welcome to BHQ !!

As mentioned: choke tube. Float bowl with little "BB" on front goes on left "choke" carb. The cutaway (angled slice) faces the air cleaner. Either buy a Clymers repair manual or find the download in tech section. Check that two nubs on outside of flywheel are clean and gap pick-up coil to .018. The manual will have complete wire diagram to sort that out.

bet it don't rattle

Try this, works like a charm.

50 lashes with a worn out Black powerband for you As to your problem. I would pull pump cover and inspect. If impellor damaged I would inspect drive gear also. I would pull pipes and inspect pistons and bores. If you did a comp test after build I would do one now for reference.

Like my blind eyes can see an 1 1/2" pic