Larry's Shee

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=wire+loom

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=75316 Have you checked this thread? Maybe PM him for ideas

Well I certainly wasn't being a smart ass other than my usual internet humor of "Let Me Google That For You" http://lmgtfy.com/ First thing on the hit is Bike Bandit, same as other poster. As to Zillia's list (aka dumbshit ) I didn't see VF3 reeds (200), drag port job 350+, or chrome swinger 200+ Here's the best place for YOU to buy parts http://www.motorcityatv.com/ Wonder if you'll have the balls to post up what your final build cost will be, and be honest

did you replace O-rings on ouside of float needle valve seat?

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Yamaha+Banshee+engine+parts+list I don't have all night to list ALL the parts Small engine, large engine, it's all the same, do you know which end of a hammer to grab?

64.5, piston will be a hair smaller. IMHO, a bore would have to be damn near perfect before I'd throw a new piston in it. More than 50% of service limit I'd bore, at least on Banshee or any HY-PO 2s

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=banshee+air+filter&_sacat=43962&_dmpt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=banshee+air+cleaner&_osacat=43962&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313

Unless I'm sofa we todd did, your description sounds more like the axle, because it seems fine with chain off. Or maybe take the pressure plate off the clutch and try spinning a shaft and shift it thru the gears. Might save you unecessary work, or confirm you have to pull the motor.

Switches don't shut it off

you talking the top of the port? Usually there is a slight delay, between that and the different angle of the port roofs helps the scavangeing/filling of the cylinder

Around here there is a little mud dauber wasp that just loves holes that size, ground plug hole on outlet boxes. Blaster blew that seal after 1/2 hour of small roundy round track

It will idle with the tors, but thats it, unless it really shit the bed. the problem mostly lies in the carb or throttle switch. Had it malfunction on the Blaster in a light rain, that was before I learned you could just unplug it. Both bikes now have the whole system eliminated and real idle screws installed.

Wiesco pistons and crank, gaskets, seals, bore, $850. Unported stock cyl with head spacer. Very smooth power w/ FMF Signature sreies. My son didn't want me to do any port work cause he said I made the Blaster too peaky, it's not even as peaky as my old Elsinore A lot left on the table, but when he tires of it, easy 10-15 more on tap

They will crack the boots. I can attest to that . I used some pvc plugs/caps installed with 3bond and clamps. Don't need no stinking crossover

You need to call the shop that just worked on it and find out if they changed the main jet. Or was the 220 in before you took it in? Someone correct me if I'm wrong but 200 is for bone stock, 220 might be good for air lid and filter ONLY. Have you ridden it since it came back from the shop?

Something that may or may not help: using correct puller only, pull flywheel and clean rust from poles on stator, clean inside of flywheel, clean timing lugs on outside of flywheel. Set pick-up gap to proper distance, spec is in the manual. Wish I had a dollar for every junk stator from Ricky that I've heard of in the last few yrs One guy threw it away after "Warrentied" twice, failed three times

That was in case he started before using a manual

That's why this is called an open discussion forum. IMO, those would be a viable option if you had worn or broken jugs , bla, bla ,bla not a cheep hoby, but some aren't as flush as others, bla, bla , smerval, cheetah, bla, bla JMHO, your results may, and will vary, bla bla

Yeah, I beleive everything I see/hear in advertising At least they're honest to say that theirs are better up to a point. Go Charriot, Michigan needs the money. Fuck Italy

If it's not worth reading, WTF are you responding to?????????? Or why are you responding

What do your plugs look like after riding? I see you had the Infamous mechanic Ben Dover rebuild the carbs, and now you want to take it to the Yammy Stealership where Ben also works, to have him tune it? First thing is you and all new guys need to read and follow some of these threads so things don't have to be repeated endlessly. Clean carbs: COMPLETELY dissasemble them, especially pilot jet out. I prefer Berrymans carb dip to soak them. Blow ALL passages with air. Set float level. Make sure cutaway faces air filter, bowl with "BB" is on left carb, choke crossover is on, sync carbs, CLEAN air filter. MAKE SURE BOWL DRAIN IS NOT LEAKING. Now you are ready to start the tuning process. Read up on plug chops and leak down test. I also agree that 220m sounds lean.

Do it right and get a Clymers manual or find the download linc around here. Remove bolt from each side of cylinder to drain coolant BEFORE you losten head nuts. BTW, Welcome to problem solver central , better known as BHQ !!

I would suggest a leakdown test. How lean you talking? Jump to a 320 and try that. BTW, Welcome to BHQ !!

I'd like to know how insurance covers a mechanical failure

To left of basket, rides on countershaft, connects kicker and clutch