Larry's Shee

Couple things to think about. Check with your porter that he can re-do porting when you go 4mil, sometimes they can't depending on original porting. Good call on pistons for now, most 4mil are long rod needing different pistons.

Did you soak the carbs or just give them a quick douche? After sitting for a year they need a complete cleaning, Take everything apart/out and soak them in Berrymans, or equal. Set floats, sync, start at 1 1/2 on air screw. Make sure you get float bowl on correct carb. One with little "BB" on front goes on left carb. Are your slides in correct carb? Slide cutaway (angled slice) faces air cleaner.

Other than that thread is about painting fenders. Son bought a big tank on the cheap, had beautiful paint .............. that was peeling off . Know nothing about how it was painted. I have seen (read) that tank grafixs for motorcycles are perforated to allow plastic to "breath". Dunno. I think good prep, adhesion promotor, paint, clear might hold up good. Don't know if I would drop $$ on custom paint tho, jmo. I'm actuallly going to try Ritt Dye first, as the tank is natural (off white) , if it doesn't look good enough, I'll paint it. Cain't spoil a rotten egg.

What carbs do you have?

just fast enough it don't stall

Gee, I see no mention of a 10 mil crank http://www.wiseco.com/Catalogs/Powersports/BottomEndATV.pdf

Can you see a spacer plate under cyl or head? If it were me I would measure the stroke. I trust no one. Do a compression test on it also, that will tell if it's 15 hrs old

Your bog could be dirty plugs, carbs, air filter, or all three.

It only has one head and you check the bore of the cylinders. Any good machine shop can measure the bores. They need to measure in six spots, top, middle, bottom, front to back and side to side. If the shop doesn't know this find another. Then if the bores are within service limit you mic the pistons to check clearance. If clearance is out of spec you should bore it for new pistons. Personally the bores would have to be damn near perfect before I would put new pistons in old holes. If everything checks out good you can hone it and just put new rings in. As to the comp test. Was the hole adapter same length as spark plug threads? Did you hold it wide open throttle and kick until gage stopped moving? Also keep track of which piston goes in which hole so if you re-use them they go back same. Always use new pison pin circlips. All of this is covered in Clymers manual, probably in download also.

Just start trolling CL, Egay, and here to start collecting the parts you need.

Well, been working on getting it back together. Been kind of slow because Larry (my son) wanted to learn how it goes together. I had hoped I would have option of head or base spacer, but the "kit" I got only came with head spacer. Anyhow this is what I came up with. Not real exact as I came up with two different timings Stock, unported cyls, Wiesco base gasket. Wiesco +4 stroke, long rod crank. Ex 186-188* open Main transfer 128* open

Got a linc? Was just on their site and didn't see anything like that.

To be gentle, your needs would be handed to you on a gold platter. In the real world of BHQ things are a little harsher, YOU have to work at it. Do you have a Clymers or download manual? Have you tried new plugs? Have you even looked at your plugs? What did they look like? Look through this thread http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99361 see if you can find a simular setup. Have you cleaned the fuel system? When you clean the carbs do them one at a time as parts are different. Be sure to remove the pilot jet, and record number of turns on air screw before removeal. Record all jet sizes and settings for future referance. Why would you have continued riding and launching @WOT if you thought you were running lean ? Or if you were having any problem? Educate yourself on the art of tuning a Banshee. Know how to read plugs, how to plug chop. It won't hurt to read threads it the jetting section to learn.

Check that all grounds are bare metal including where coil bolts to frame. Same with all wire connections, even use Dremel to clean female connectors. Add dab of dielectric grease to all connections, where coil mounts. Pull stator cover check picup coil gap. Make sure nubs on flywheel are clean. If that fails, pull flywheel and clean poles on stator. Check the ohms on stator, look for bare wires. Not that I've experienced it but generally speaking cdi either works or not.

I jerked that crap out of throttle and gooped hole in gromet with silicon. Clean whatever that stuff is and lube with silicon spray.

Do a leakdown test to see if you have an air leak or maybe blown head gasket. Then either pull pipe and peek into cylinder or pull the head.

X-2 on the slang/ text crap. What goes in your hood isn't the same in my hood. Oh wait, I live inthe woods , got no hood. As to the build doesn't sound like you have much to start with. Probably cheaper to start with something more complete. As to yfz arms , might want to look into it more. I've read most all posts about it and about half don't care for it. I think it's because the geometry is wrong even if they are cut and spaced. JMHO, your results may, and will vary.

Are you gapping it at both timing nubs? What gap are you using? Even if plate were bent your still gapping both nubs. Are you sure the screws for pic up are tight? If crank were out you wouldnt get equal gaps at the wheel.

I suggest doing a leakdown and compression test before you tear it apart. For shits and giggles check your flywheel before anything else, might save lots of work. If compression is good, may or may not want to throw rings in it. Consider complete seal kit instead of just crank seals, only few$$ more, and you got it apart. Complete gasket kit. Check with site sponsers for crank and such.

Did you do leak down before tearing it apart? Was coolant level good? Did all these issues start at same time? Trans and back fire? Which piston was it? Sure the rod on that side is good? One other area of concern. Are you sure the Vito's SS pistons are compatible with the long rod crank?

where abouts are the markings you mentioned?

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=152828 Here ya go. Shut up and show them the money.

If you hung out a little more, a "friend" might be able to help ya

Stock carbs, TORS or not? Are you talking where cable attaches to slide? FYI, make sure slide cutaway faces air cleaner.