Larry's Shee

Mock assemble cases with just trans , cases torqued. See if you have any movement of bearing in case. As to sealing cases be sure to seal surface between crank and trans. Pack seals with grease per manual.

Hold arm in one hand and joint stud with thumb/ finger. If there is more than 1/16 in/out travel on the stud I'd consider that worn. Boots can be replaced, that's no indication of wear.

Chill the fuck out, only takes like 15 posts (not dumb ass threads) to use shout box. Already looking like a trolll

I would start by putting 27.5 pilots in. Then fine tune from there. As to the main I would go 280. But hey, I'm conservative on jetting. I'd rather leave a horse in the barn and pistons in the jugs.

Do you have bare metal on the frame for groung and coil ground?

This morning I and it looked just like that

Check for loose flywheel

Jackass-ery is when you ask after buying You already have them. Why would you give a fuck what others think?

Might try this also, I'vf done it and works great http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/easy-almost-free-way-stop-leaky-carbs-33335/

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=How+to+rebuild+Yamaha+Banshee+carb

have you shut the gas off yet? Ya got it flooded good. Can try new plugs, or let it sit with plugs out for a while to evap excess, even blow air down plug hole.

Somewhere on the forum was a thread on cutting the bung out and welding in a new one.

The Banshee motor is a spin off of a street bike motor, which had a neutral indicater light switch. On Banshee it's only a cover, it has an O-ring, or could be old and cracked. Same side as sprocket, front and down of sprocket. There's a replacement solid aluminum cover for it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-grill-gas-tank-plastic-radiator-cover-BLUE-/280881423269?hash=item4165d663a5&item=280881423269&pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr buy these , wrap them, then show and tell

What pilot do you have? What's your compression reading? Does it start easy?

The infamous stealership mechanic Ben Dover is now boreing carbs So BenD over and take it like a man, you got fucked and now need new carbs Can't have air leaking past slides.

Nothing beats buying, then asking questions

X2 ^^^ What are your air screws at now?

Clean it off real good (brake clean) and take it for way shorter run to narrow it down. Also check the nutral light cover.

If you can't find it here it might not exist http://www.bansheehq.com/yz-banshee-specs-sponsors.html

Welcome to BHQ If you find a deal on a 4mil stroker don't pass it up, can always do the porting ect later on, price for crank is about same.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=banshee+pingle&_sacat=43962&_dmpt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=banshee&_osacat=43962&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313 http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=banshee+fuel+line&_sacat=43962&_dmpt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=banshee&_osacat=43962&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313 Or you could check with site sponsers

Was thinking a wire might have got bumped then finished off when running. Try rapping float bowls with screwdriver handle, they might just be hung up. Check fuel flow from petcock

Is this CF applied over original part? Maybe give an idea on cost also.

check for loose or bare wire. Have you checked for spark?