Larry's Shee

Next thing to do is list your carb settings/jets. Would suggest cleaning carbs, setting float level, and syncing them. Clean air filter. What fuel/oil ratio are you running? What do your plugs look like? Have good blue spark? Also list any other mods not in your sig.

Sure it isn't just tire squish? Support it under the engine and see if you have movement there.

Wilbur, either you are a TROLL, or you just like posting repetative posts about the same thing. This makes the third thread on the same subject. CONGRATS, you're batting 100%

You can say whatever the fuck you want, long as it's not racist, go figure. Have to watch out for Matt, he can find more shit about anything that it will scare ya. Ditch the boost bottle, it does absolutely nothing but cause carb boots to crack, which causes air leaks, which will cause your engine to melt down. You HAVE BEEN WARNED !!

Other than the wheels I think it looks nice. Wonder if it's geared down to pull those hoops?

HHMMMMM, me thinks Ken O wouldn't be to happy with this shit ^^^^ I know I wouldn't want to be in a pic of pole smokers Do you guys think I should linc this to his BHQ bashing thread on BF ???

And now the rest of the story. I ASS U ME d you were sitting at the top of a dune waiting for your buddy Consider getting pressure plate and inner hub checked for warpage, check bushing and sleeve in basket, check steels for warpage. Check rod and actuator arm as mentioned, might be worn enough that it isn't disengaging enough. Sorry no one else has any ideas

Not cool starting two threads the same topic, just saying new guy

First thing to do is welcome you to BHQ !! Next is ditch the boost bottle, it does nothing for performance and will crack intake boots that will cause an air leak, that will melt your engine down, that will cost lotsa money to fix

Not mine should have had more welding practice . It was the only example I could come up with to explain the relationship of the pivot points of the arms.

As with any vehicle, it's not good to sit there with the clutch disengaged for long periods. Check that the actuator arm and rod are not worn.

I'll have to read the rest when I have time, only finished two pages, W T F E. This blew up almost as fast as the religion thread

Beleive it or not, I manually scrolled thru the whole suspension forum (because the search function sucks) for YFZ and J to A coversions. Probably half feel as BBC does, and another 25% won't admit it. I think I know why too. It's because the relation of the pivot points aren't correct for the arms. You have to do more than cut one side and add a spacer to the other. You'd have to do it like this : http://www.blasterforum.com/suspension-14/guide-fitting-yfz-450-complete-front-suspension-blaster-36120/

Depends on the amount of damage before it stops running

Locks only keep honest people honest. Since Ive been around here one had his truck and banshee ripped, another had his taken from his truck while he was inside a atv shop.

Even with everything else "perfect", the O-ring on the outside of the seat can leak.

Only in da hood

https://www.denniskirk.com/outerwears/airbox-cover.p305290.prd/305291.sku https://www.denniskirk.com/k-and-n/power-lid.p182157.prd/182159.sku You have these or fab your own modifying the stock cover https://www.denniskirk.com/outerwears/pre-filter-sheets.p305420.prd/305420.sku

There is a pipe comparison somewhere in Jetting section. Pipe and engine have to compliment each other. Can't run drag pipes on a stock engine, and vice-versus

Might want to find the download manual for the spec on side clearance, IIRC it is far less than 1MM, hope your estimate is off. Don"t have my Clymers handy or I'd look it up.

You didn't thread jack, you were grave digging this thread is over a year old. I would highly suggest getting a Clymers repair manual or finding the linc for a download manual. To answer your Q, no you won't deal with brake fluid. Doesn't the kit come with instructions? BTW, Welcome to BHQ !!

Anything 2:1 on a banshee is for pussies or dumb asses (except for turbo). If you are to stupid or lazy to tune two carbs stick to a Warrior or 400ex. Why would you spend big money on a Cheetah and leave 25% of your horses in the barn? BTW, welcome to BHQ !!

I like that idea of first time hook. Like quote 40 and only charge 30 when they pick it up. Or throw in little free-bee like lube chain or throttle cable. Unless you can find some kind of blue book on what it takes time wise to do a job you're still going to have to wing it. I bid a job of swapping a 660 raptor frame for 300, 350 if lots of rusted bolts and the guy still hasn't bit. Told my son something about waiting till spring?? WTF, that was over a month ago. I'm not doing anything any ways, just something to do ya know. Good luck

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=150894 If your claw wobbles like that, might be time to replace

Lapping cases and mold shift would have nothing to do with it. The two halves are assembled and then the shaft bores are bored into cases. Don't know about that particular run of cdi, but I could see where a box could get "stupid" and not retard timing after midrange advance.