Larry's Shee

Did you trim the plug wires before installing caps? 1/4" off gives new wire to contact with. Also check the pick-up coil gap and make sure the nubs are rust free. Pretty hard to check if you are getting spark on one cylinder as the Banshee uses a wasted spark. Both plugs fire every 180* of crank rotation.

Well, you have two cylinders trying to run at different speeds, what do you think ? Especially if the late slide never opens all the way.

Check gas tank and carb vents.

I could be a sarcastic SOB, but you may not understand American humor. Therefor I'll suggest trying google, or your prefered brand may have an online catalog.

As mentioned check pick-up coil gap. Clean timing nubs on flywheel. Clean stator poles and inside of flywheel. Use ONLY a Banshee flywheel puller, no 2-3 jaw pullers!! Ohm plug caps seperatly. Trim 1/4" from plug wire, install boots with dab of Dielectric grease. Banshee uses a wasted spark system. Both plugs fire at same time, so you have no way of telling if it's firing for left or right stroke. Unplug TORS brain , left frame tube buy gas tank.

Does it work good when you shift down from third?

I have seen the Bimotion mentioned on E2S, highly recomended. The program will tell you what to expect from certain combinations. Books will tell you the why.

Ditch the bottle !! If the carb boots aren't fucked, they soon will be !!

Ok, where to get a decent right angle head for decent price ?

presume that because you're looking at cylinders you tore up your stockers ?? Driveline is still the best bang for the buck !! Odds are if you got a used set of stock cyls, they would still need to be bored, so figure $350+ for pistons and boring, plus $$ for cylinders , still monies ahead with DL.

I used either a small chisel or center punch and "staked" it better. Make sure it's facing correct direction and punch it lightly where the two pieces meet.

Redid decals on RM250, but were mostly off, pulled rest of way, cleaned old glue off, then sprayed 3M contact glue.

Get a plumbers acid brush (used in soldering pipes) to spread the Yammabond. Use a small disposable cup or even piece of beer box to squeeze some out. "Paint" an even coat on one half then assemble. Have to work relatively quick as it sets pretty quickly. Yeah, 99% gets squeezed out, that's why thin even coat, avoid getting it in any threaded holes.

A leakdown test will also tell you wether it's the crank seal or possibly a leaking case, between halves. Putting end of vent tube in glass of water will bubble if anything in trans or under clutch cover is leaking. There is also a possibility of the keyway leaking on right crank end.

A high float level/leaking float needle can result in incomplete combustion, especially the oil in the mix, leading to spooge. Spooge is the technical name for unburned oil leaking from a 2s pipe. As to repair, a Clymers Repair Manual covers it all. Flywheel puller is only tool you can't do without. A Banshee is the easiest engine to split. A stock engine at 120psi is real close to a rebuild.

A Craftsman is the cheapest you should buy. Throttle WFO,kick until needle stops moving. Rings have nothing to do with oil. There is oil on both sides of the rings. Excess oil in right pipe is a sign of possible right crank seal leaking. Though it could be carb related (float level).

Well then share your knowledge on the subject. X-2 /\ engine,pipes, etc, main type of riding you will do.

When was last time carbs were cleaned AND the floats set ? Were these plugs run like in doing a plug chop? Or were you just riding around?? Big difference !! Single air filter ?? Why would you want to use less oil ??

Uuuhhmmmmm , have you tried Google ??

Are you familiar with how to do a plug chop/ plug read? Presume air filter is clean and no major dents in pipes or plugged silencers ??

Seems to be a translation issue. Did this start suddenly? Was it after doing some work on it? Have you tried NEW plugs? Are the carbs pussy clean and float level set? Choke crossover tube on ? If yes to all those questions, go down one jet size at a time. NOBODY can tell you what size you need exactly, every engine is different as are set ups and conditions.

That's Yiddish/ Hebrew for "What The FUCK? "

One thing that is never mentioned is humidity. Right now it's 46% in Flint Michigan (surprisingly due to good rain last night) but only 14% in Phoenix Arizona. Ha, I'd consider 46% as "dry" for Mich. Humid air has less Oxygen.

Looks like right cylinder went lean and burned down.

Boost bottle removal is best place to start.