Larry's Shee

I sent gusto (I think) a PM , he said was tearing a motor down. If I don't hear back soon so I have choices, we'll work something out. Think I would/should do new rings?

Have you noticed any metal in the oil when change? Better description of "play" would help.

Would these be good to go as is ?

Head was off when we got it. I took cylinders off because I knew from the hole in one "spare" piston it had blown a rod. I could tell by two different color rods that it had been "repaired" , not replaced. The cylinder that blew had a repair sleeve installed, it's maybe.040-.060 thick. The non blown cylinder has a brand new 64mm piston in a hole that is bigger than 64mm. Betweenthe loose piston and 18cc domes with probably pump gas I'm sure it probably rattled like a MF. I could get a piston the right size for the larger hole, but I'm pretty sure that the Pistons being different size/weight the engine would probably shake itself to death in no time. The more I think about it I realize there is no way around fixing it right if I want to reliably ride it other than in the yard.

I don't think I can bore the cylinder because of the repair sleeve in left cylinder. It's pretty thin and who knows what's underneath. The crank is sketchy at best. No way to know if any bearings were replaced. Could have gotten debris from broken rod, cylinder gouging. Should do like P.O. should have done. Junk the crank, maybe cylinder too. After seeing some pics of rod damaged cases, don't think I will trust crank as is. By the time I fixed it, could have probably bought new. Prior to Jan 20 I could have applied a Presidential Solution'. Guess I'll fix correctly, but still as economically as possible.

I actually searched this subject several years ago. Vast majority wished they hadn't done it. The rest were to proud to admit it. The geometry is all wrong to work, especially front frame rake. ONLY way to make it work would be to EXACTLY duplicate the YFZ frame front. At that point might as well put a Banshee engine in a YFZ, as if that's easy or cheap.

If it were me I'd drain the bit of gas in the tank (and carbs) and not take a chance on old gas.

I have a oversized tank that was painted that is peeling. Will paint stripper work without damaging the plastic? Don't want to use abrasive because thinking of using dye for coloration, or maybe leave natural/white.

That would be close to getting a 4mil and Driveline cylinders. =421 IIRC

Ever hear of a plug chop? One jet size for every 20* drop from "perfect" summer jetting. You are extremely lean. Hope you didn't hurt it.

At my age I can use the excuse of forgetting shit. Fuck, what did I have for breakfast............

Break Out Another Thousand

How the fuck you know I'm in Lapeer? Where're you? Spent the first 50 years in Orkskaville. Obviously who ever worked on it had less than no clue.

I'll start with how it was when my son and I bought it. Decent condition overall. Cool head was off. "Spare" parts included two used pistons, one with rod sized hole in it. Pulled cylinders, crank had one rod replaced, other is kind of sloppy. Blown side had thin repair sleeve installed, 64mm. Other cylinder had 64mm piston in larger hoe (65?). Head had 18cc domes. I can tell by crown that it wasn't run much. Original pistons were Vito's S Stock, new are Wiseco. So, I can either get it running as cheap as possible, or go all in with Driveline cylinders, ext. It probably won't be ridden much due to my health. So, ideas on how to proceed. I have thick skin so asshole comments will just bounce back to you X2.

Not related, but get rid of boost bottle. It WILL crack intake boots causing air leak. Just wanna covered everything else

How does it run where you live?? What's the election? Have you done a proper plug chop or read ??

Have you tried it with complete air cleaner set-up on ? Have to tune the way it will be run. Did I read that you installed new reeds? Leak test after? Double check boots like Tricked suggested. While running spray with starting fluid or such, or unlit propane torch.

A Clymers repair manual is good place to start. Or find an online PDF. Also look at an online parts diagram, you could be missing a part , washer or bushing for shift shaft. Been a while since I had one apart. Off chance cover is worn allowing it to slide to the right to much to start with. Inspect shaft and shifter closely, odds are you'll replace one or both. Replace seal. Wrap splines with masking tape when installing to protect seal. Inspect/adjust ecentric screw. Apologize all you want , ain't reading all your post

Covering bases . Check pick-up gap at flywheel . Not re-reading post. Ground at frame , no paint at frame. Run a ground from engine to that point. There's actually a thread about this. Did you swap coil?

Even though the junk is off carbs and P brake , is the TORSbrain box unplugged ??(a must ) Left frame rail by tank , three wires

Narrower is not the way I want to go. Thanks!!

Depends where the spacer plate is. Under the cylinders would raise the all the ports giving a higher rpm powerband. A head spacer or stroker domes would be like lowering the ports. This is all in relation to crankshaft degrees. My son runs an unported 4mil. Nice low end power.

What "size" are the J-arms? Would they be trailable ? or Dune/drag only ?

Like it's your job to point this out ?? Sad life you live

Clean nubs on flywheel of rust, set gap, report back. Ohm ALL electrical, remove plug caps, trim 1/4" from wires, install caps with dab of dieletric grease.