Larry's Shee

Still have to check storage one for mouse nest

Reason you want to rebuild? Low on compression?

Plastic straw or pencil. Stick in hoe, bottom out (bottom dead center) mark straw. Rotate to TDC , Mark. Measure distance between , that's stroke.

Couple things, asking price and selling price are two different things. Things are improving, I notice slightly higher prices on several different things that I look at. Hell, wasn't that long ago that some were bitching they couldn't even make money on part outs. But agree about some of those. OOFs with full fenders, wtf? The blue one has bald tires except for one. Looks decent, but not 5g decent. Plus most on East coast are almost as bad as Cali. For shits and giggles I sometimes check CL in far away cities just to see what prices are in say LA or Los Vages

Reason I asked about floats because hard enough hit could have jarred them and changed level. Unless I missed something, I fail to see how a T bone could nessesatate a jetting change. BTW, melted plug is another clue. As mentioned, something electrical. Hell, cdi could have got it's bell rang.

Get rid of the boost bottle !! It WILL crack the carb boots!!! And if they do show signs of cracking replace them. Sooner or later they will start to leak!! Then your pistons will melt!!

It's great when important clues are left out in the beginning. Is TORS still hooked up? I see no mention of checking float height. Is it possible To borrow the complete electrical off one of the other bikes? Or you might be able to get Compulsive to make you an adapter plug. What about parking brake limiter? Also try bypassing both switches. Explain how you thought it would be jetting?

Steering stem hoop, rear subframe

Banshee I just rebuilt leaked with stock spring clamps, and bottle itself leaked. I just took boot to hardware and found something that fit. May have been in electrical because it was a gray color.

Thought you passed leakdown test ??

Two things I noticed going back through this. No mention of turns on air screw, and you still have stock pilot. I went to FMF website and they actually recommend a 30 pilot. Even though they say 260 main, that would be with totally stock air box, which you don't have. Therefore, I wouldn't go any smaller on main, especially without doing a plug chop/read, and until you get the midrange dialed in. Something that helps is looking at the diagram of which carb circuits affect certain throttle opening. It is in the Clymers Repair Manual, might find it in a sticky in jetting forum.

Describe your hiccup in more detail. Is it if you ride at constant mid throttle? Roll on throttle? Stab throttle? You mentioned needle on last clip, closest to point or blunt end ?

I just used 3bond and screw clamps. I can name many 2-3 cyl two stroke that don't use a crossover, including aftermarket Banshee manifold. We don't need no stinking crossover.

Carb parts Warehouse, Sudco, Jets are Us, forum sponsors, Yamaha parts supplier. All you really need is float needle and seat, gasket. If you need a fuel air screw, don't let King Kong touch carbs again

Only "Review" I have seen said they leaked worse with the Shitty Kit. Quality doesn't cost, it pays !! Don't be a cheap ass, get genuine Mikuni/ Yamaha Plus, jets don't wear out and unless you're totally bone stock that 200 main will sit on the shelf.

Definitely get rid of the boost bottle !! Only thing they do is crack the intake boots. And I can say that from experience!! And they didn't start leaking until 3yrs later , after I got rid of it, when I did some jetting. Either crossover or some PVC caps that fit in boots. Occasionally you can get a flat spot that seems impossible to get rid of. Not saying to stop trying, just don't drive in those conditions. Double/tripple check that carbs are clean, float level is correct, bowls on correct carb, all the stupid shit that gets overlooked no matter how many times posted or you've done it. Hell, even start double checking electrical, won't hurt.

Compression test, clean the carbs , make sure no mouse house in the pipe

Well, stock cast last a long time. Can't say about Namura . Hopefully somebody will. I say run the fuckers. You have an extra set of cylinders. You can take your time getting them bored and ported. By chance, do you know if it was a fresh bore for the new pistons? That might make a difference if they threw new piston in an old hole. If it isn't together yet have it measured for out of round, taper, and piston clearance.

Good idea on the crank! Close inspection of rod big end !! It ain't pretty when a big end bearing ends in the combustion chamber !!

No on the gasket. If head gasket was leaking you would either be burning coolant or blowing combustion gasses into radiator. Presume you did comp test more than once? Best advice is get a Clymers Repair Manual sounds like you will need it.

Advantage of cast is less warm-up Disadvantage they tend to shatter when worn out.

Palm trees in Mich?? WTF ?

Like alky girl, or whatever her name was. Just don't piss in his sandbox. Did her questions ever get answered, or is everyone still tripping over their tongues???

I'd do at least an 1/8" more so you have more adjustment and room for lock nut. Had same issue first time I did them.

Toe in set ?? Caster and camber good ??